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I've picked up a cheap runabout car (98 Corsa 1.4) for myself and I've been fitting a new cambelt plus other service items.

I won't bother to go into details just yet, unless someone fits cambelts for a living and can advise me about an issue I have.

Cheers,

Chris.

Chris,.If no joy with forum members on here ,it might be worth joining a Vauxhall forum ,my brother had a problem with his Astra 16v and joined this one http://www.cavweb-forums.co.uk/ ,but there's probably a few similar vx forums.

Corsa Sport is a good site for advice Chris.
http://www.corsasport.co.uk/board/index.php

Thanks Stevie and Mick for the links, very much appreciated

Chris.

what's the problem then?

Puncture.

dave-sp2 wrote:what's the problem then?

I wanted to know if they normally apply the procedure that is described in the Haynes w/shop manual, for tightening the Torx bolt on the end of the crank to hold the pulley in place

The procedure is as follows:-

(Stage 1) Tighten to 95Nm

(Stage 2) Tighten a further 30 degrees

(Stage 3) Tighten a further 15 degrees

I've managed the 95Nm OK, but the best I could achieve was a further 20 degrees. And that was using my torque wrench which is 550mm long, so I had a fair amount of leverage there.

What I've done now is marked the bolt and pulley with tip-ex and will keep my eye on it for any movement.

Chris.

PS. Tony, the washer bottle was empty

loctite, then tighten with wizzy gun....sorted, but your way will probably suffice. Yes mechanicing over 25 years, though not full time now.

hi chris, i'm sure the FT treatment will work fine, keep an eye still just incase. that is the right predure for doing head bolts etc but can sometimes be a right pain in the butt.

sure it will be fine

dave

tony.mon wrote:Puncture.

May be a stupid question but have you used a new bolt ???
Usually when your given a degree to turn to its on a stretch bolt and they can only be used once

That was my first thought, or maybe a crush washer in there. But it's got four wheels,so what the Hell do I know

Pete.l

Very much appreciated guys for all your help and advice etc, thanks

A very good point about renewing the bolt Warby. According to the workshop manual (Haynes) they say replace it, but they also say there's no mention of that by Vauxhall.

So I thought if I'd taken the car into a Vauxhall garage for them to replace the cam belt it most likely wouldn't have been replaced anyway.

But now (after it's been mentioned) I think a replacement bolt seems like a good idea.

The hardest part is trying to lock the engine in place by putting it in gear and another person putting their foot on the brake pedal with it in gear. Probably an engine locking tool would make the job easier, apparently they engage with the starter ring, although to me that sounds like a lot of pressure on the starter ring.

It goes without saying I don't want to shear the bolt off, by using scaffold pole like Tim did on his VW, as I can imagine that would be a right swine to get out if it did, but I don't want it coming lose either.

So far my marks on the bolt and pulley have not moved.

Stormingjoe, A wizzy gun must have different torque settings surely

Pete, Not sure about any crush washer, unless the big thick washer there is just that.

Cheers,

Chris.

Chris
I had the same thing on a ford puma I had a bit back when I changed the cam belt
No mention of a new bolt in the ford workshop manual (they don’t do a Haynes manual for the 1700 engine or any of the puma’s) but the cam belt kit from ford came with a new bolt and instructions saying it needs changing as it stretches
Try ringing the Vauxhall parts department and ask if the cam belt kits come with a new bolt
P.s. you lock the engine by taking the starter out and jamming the starter ring with a special tool or as I did a piece of flat steel of the right width to engage the housing and ring gear

Cheers Warby for the info.

I did ask Vauxhall if there was a kit available when I rang them for a price on the cam belt, but they said there wasn't. Interesting about the Ford one all the same.

I didn't like the sound of locking the engine via the starter ring as I was worried it wouldn't be up to taking that amount of strain, considering how much pressure I'll be putting on it, it must be a lot more than the starter motor itself ever subjects the starter ring to.

But going by your experience it sounds like it should be OK, it'll certainly be a lot easier with the engine locked in position rather than the way I've been trying to do it (putting it in gear and a helper applying the brakes).

I think I best get my ramps back from my brother next job, that should make access easier to the starter motor at the rear of the engine.

Cheers,

Chris.