VTR1000.ORG

Just wanna say "hi" everyone. It's nice to find such an active forum...and bonus!! everyones got the same bike
I've got the Orange vtr on a 'T' plate and had it for nearly a year.Did approx 2,000 miles on it last year and been out for a couple of months this year (love it)

I know this may be a little premature but i gonna try a few questions

When i bought the bike from Bradford last year the bloke had just had the manual cam chain tensioners fitted...however since i've had it it wont hit more than 6500rpm without stuttering which forces me to change gear .. The bloke said it was due to carb balancing..Any Ideas?????...also this may be a stupid question but have i lost a lot of power due to this?...Coz it still pulls like a train up to that point.

Looking for a lower fairing and hugger ...any ideas where to purchase...and where to get them painted as they only seem to come in the common colours

Thinking about polishing the edge of my rims...any ideas how to get the paint off accurately to leave a nice solid line between paint and polished ally

Think that's prob enough questions now or i be kicked out after my first post for boring y'all

Once again "hi"

Mark ( You can always tell when there's a storm coming )

hello & welcome! just been watching your lads getting a stuffing off salford reds lol....

er right, first thing... youre not the first to have tensioners fitted then find it wont rev - in fact you';re the 2nd in a week.
the cam timing is not set properly mate.
quite easy to put right.
look in the workshop section and follow the guide as if you're fitting new tensioners.
work on the rear on as it's easier to sort.
when whoever fitted them set them up, they timed up the ft mark then turned it to the first rt mark.
wrong. very easy to get it wrong - even honda dealers have been known to balls it up, but on the bright side no damage done.
will take you a couple of hrs, tank off, airbox off, carbs off (it's easier that way)
follow the guide to the letter & you wot go wrong.

Welcome and plus 1 on what Benny said ref cam timing. As for fairings lowers, google powerbronze and pyramid plastics. Both good. I prefer the powerbronze one and when I ordered mine it came in gel coat black so no need to spray it. My storm is red (well, bits of it are. Other bits are now black) and the black lowers look good with it. Also looks good with orange. They do do them in a couple of other colours but not many. Pyramid plastics will do a colour match. Powerbronze are a proper fairing lower and pyramid are belly pans. Both places do huggers.

Hi Mark and welcome, wheel polishing get a paint stripper and a small brush, machinemart do an attachment polishing kit for your drill. It's easy but time consuming. Have fun

Hello Mark, and welcome to the forum.

Benny has given you the correct diagnosis on the lack of rev out.........cam timing is out, and one cyl is firing on the wrong TDC. Yes you are losing some power as the airbox is unable to feed enough air when the intake cycles are too close together

Instructions are on here, print out, and read 3 times before starting and refer to them when doing the work and take your time. 1 other point to take care with is making sure you loctite the maunual CCT screw [not the locknut, you need to know the main adjuster thread is locked into the CCT main housing, screw lock or silicon to give it a prevailing friction]. I say this as there has been a number of occasions where the CCT has backed out after setting, so make sure it is loctited, and also inspect it after every run to see if it vibrates out. Good news is you should hear the cam chain rattle to warn you that it is comming loose, bad news if you ignore the warning you can bend the valves.

Have fun

Thanks you lot
I gonna have a look at the workshop manual and see if i dare have a go bricking it tho!

Also it needs a service and apparently the shop want £320 (seems a lot) Dunno whether it's worth having a go at myself.

P.S Many thanks for the info....Much appreciated

marksmiffy wrote:
Also it needs a service and apparently the shop want £320

what they doing, gold plating it for you?
how many miles it done???? since last service??
if it's just plugs, oil & filters you'll be halfway there anyway by the time you get into the tensioners.
just get on with it lol.

dont bother doing the shims by the mileage... you'll be paying £200 for nothing.
they won't need touching unless it's rattling its bollox off (which it wont be)

Benny......The shop said they balance carbs, valve clearances and service . Sounded a lot to me too being a poor self employed roofer .

Hate doing owt to my bike in case i stuff up....especially as the nice weather is here and would hate to have my bike in bits in the garage without the knowledge or bottle to put it right.

Thinking bout having a go at the timing but still trying to get my head round the instructions at the minute..sounds like the stupid fellow before i had it had manual cct's fitted and it only revs up to 6500 now

Got a day off tomorrow and got some of stripdown instructions in my head now well scared

just got to get my head round wot to do once i got it stripped down

Cheers

p.s its done 30k...bout 300 since last service

if you get stuck, give us a ring. pm'd you my moby.

as i said, the shims probably wont need doing.. and i doubt they'd bother tbh but they'll still charge you for checking them.
if you plan on taking both cam covers off to check the valve timing you might as well get some feeler gauges and check the clearances while youre there.
carb balance.... very easy and will cost you £20 for a set of gauges off ebay and a few quid for an adaptor for the front cylinder.
you might as well get that ordered for when you take the carbs off to do the valve timing as it;s a lot easier to fit with the carbs off.
if you follow the instructions here you will be surprised how easy it is to do.
should take you half a day then you're off, nicely running free revving bike and saved yourself best part of 300 notes

Many Thanks for that Benny

It should have said 3000 miles since last service but it aint noisy at all...The bloke at shop said it's prob carb balancing or valve clearances causing it to only rev up to 6500rpm.
Oh by the way....Where is umop apisdn lol never heard of it ...is it near me

marksmiffy wrote:The bloke at shop said it's prob carb balancing or valve clearances causing it to only rev up to 6500rpm.
Oh by the way....Where is umop apisdn lol never heard of it ...is it near me

just do oil and filters mate & sort out the valve timing.
bet your butt the bike wouldve come back exactly the same and youd be 300 worse off.
you can do the carbs anytime.

i'll let you work out my location for yourself lol

benny,
I just worked it out mate, and I have been looking at it for months trying to figure it out.... But i refused to ask because that would be like reading the operating instructions

All that effort and its not even that funny

Last post before bed lol....Just wondered ...do i have to take cam chains off sprocket to realign timing??

marksmiffy wrote:Last post before bed lol....Just wondered ...do i have to take cam chains off sprocket to realign timing??

very possibly. on the rear anyway.
line up the front at tdc (FT) as described in the guide, then set up the rear.
the rear is easier to get at, you;ll only need to move one cam.
*edit - what i mean is you'll only have to remove one cam.... (or tilt it sideways) then there will be enough slack to lift the chain off the other and jog the cam round.
suggest you remove the rear inlet cam as it''s easier to get at, and leave the exhaust cam in position - also prevents the chain falling down the hole lol!

just remember to stuff bogroll down the camchain tunnel before you take the top guide off lol
& get some loctite for the bolts when it goes back in.
it's dead easy m8

set the timing mark at the correct tdc (RT) position then with the cct removed, you should be able to jog the chain over the top of the gear without removing the cam completely, but taking it out only takes another 2 mins.
if you get stuck just ring or post back

in a word yes.

when you have the engine at the correct timing mark, then take off the manual CCT , and that will give you slack in the chain, then you rotate the cams to the correct position, put chain back on and refit the CCT