regulator/rectifier

[Scratcher]

Hi guys new to the forum and neeeeeeeed help if you dont mind. I have a 98 storm and to be honest ive always had slight probs starting her. I used her for aprox a year for instructing so lots of stopping and starting, when she had been run for a while and I stopped for a debrief i would have to leave her for 5 mins to get her to start again. So I decided to get another bike (KLE 500) for work and kept her for play time, I also bought a new battery last year then put her away for the winter. About a month ago I was out a fair way from home and after nice pub grub went to start her and after a few turns I got the dreaded ticks I manged to get a jump start off a guy with a transit van, she started fine on the way home it was dark and I noticed that when I put on the breaks or the indicators I could see my head lights dimm, so when I got home I put her on a trickle charge for a couple of days checked out the battery with a meter and it was reading 12.5 off 13 ticking over and 15 at mid revs, so went down to wales for a good run when I got there I noticed a strong eggy smell didnt think too much of as my mates had just had an all day breakfast and where a bit gassey. Had a good hard ride on the way back but as I stopped at my mates house we noticed a high pitched noise coming from my bike almost like a kettle boiling, I cracked open my seat and saw that I was my battery, acid steam was coming out of the seams and it was very hot and smelt of eggs so with that I thought it must be the battery. So a browse on here and then ebay I picked up a YTX16BS 14ah for better crancking, so I have just installed it and she started like she was hooked up to a car, no choke, was made up. Put my lights on and hit the brakes and still dimming the head light beam very noticeably. I dont want to go out and mess up another battery if the problem lies else where, after read some of your posts I am look in the direction of the rectifier, ive had a look and the one on the bike is the flat kind guessing the same one from new, I seen a few of you say that the cbr 125 fits fine but after looking on ebay there are 2 kinds one with a female socket on it and another with a wire running from it which one do I need and any other thoughts about my probs I would be very greatful.

thanks guys
Al

[griffo117]

these are the ones u need change as soon as possible and test after install

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-CBR-12 ... 439fc12046


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Regulator-Re ... 1c1c415de0

[Scratcher]

Thanks for the quick reply, ordered and on the way.
cheers

[BigVeeGrin]

just thinking of this myself - in the Knowledgebase bit there is more info than you can process about the topic!

http://www.haymouth.co.uk/phpBB3/viewto ... =31&t=5308

[agentpineapple]

hi guys
i have a similar question, will either of these fit?

cbr125...2004
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/honda-cbr125- ... 2a125de9e8
r1...98/2000
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-YZF-R1 ... 1c1d5a3c09

[Taz69]

Martin,


I am sure somewhere on hear mentioned the R1 being a preference, I am sure that's what's fitted to mine.

Mark

[Wicky]

yup the 125 one fits as I fitted one to a friends at the beginning of Summer. This replaced her crappy early finless R/R for the measly sum of £15

hi guys
i have a similar question, will either of these fit?

cbr125...2004
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/honda-cbr125- ... 2a125de9e8
r1...98/2000
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-YZF-R1 ... 1c1d5a3c09

[benny hedges]

Martin,


I am sure somewhere on hear mentioned the R1 being a preference, I am sure that's what's fitted to mine.

Mark

this probably came about cos someone had a failed early honda r/r and either had a r1 part lying about or got one cheap.
there is no reason to believe they are any more reliable than a honda r/r - a mate cooked his virago with one a few years back with 29v going through the loom!
and you have to butcher the wiring to make them fit.
the cbr125 r/r is a direct plug-in replacement, as are most later honda r/r with the same type of plug.
up to you... basically they all do the same job regardless what bike it's off.

[tony.mon]

Martin,


I am sure somewhere on hear mentioned the R1 being a preference, I am sure that's what's fitted to mine.

Mark

this probably came about cos someone had a failed early honda r/r and either had a r1 part lying about or got one cheap.
there is no reason to believe they are any more reliable than a honda r/r - a mate cooked his virago with one a few years back with 29v going through the loom!
and you have to butcher the wiring to make them fit.
the cbr125 r/r is a direct plug-in replacement, as are most later honda r/r with the same type of plug.
up to you... basically they all do the same job regardless what bike it's off.

Not so fast, Benny.
The later R1 r/r is a flat-plane crank one, and instead of all three poles of the alternator firing at equal spacings in the crank rotation they all fire almost together, giving better volt traction in the wires, especially in Ampshire.



(I might have made that up while drunk or bored in the office, though, you decide).

[AMCQ46]

I agree, the best solution is one which has same connecter, so hence the newer Honda ones [even if off a 125]. The yam ones were chosen as they have the same electrical configuration, and a big heatsink, but the connector and even the terminal blade sizes are not the same as Honda, so a bit of bodging is required.

also worth noting that the terminals will age and increase resistance, so it is not a bad thing to replace them as this is a big source of overheating when you put that much current through a poor joint. if your bike has already had a R/R failure, your loom connectors are probably now heat damaged, and will contunue to overheat further due to high contact resistance when you replace the R/R

note that many more yam ones work, not just R1/R6........mine was off a 600 diversion, and hence was being sold for much less that the ones of the sporty bikes!

[tattoo]

i fitted a 125 valadero r/r i had laying about...it has same connector and is finned and bolts straight on.

[Scratcher]

Hi just an update ive now fitted the new r/r and still the same prob the head light dims when indicator/brake is put on, but now on the meter test im getting 13 with the bike off, 14 on tick over with no rise when rpm increased but with lights on im getting 14 on idle and it drops to 13 when rpms up to 5-6k. Any more ideas guys, thanks so much for your input.

[benny hedges]

new battery???
battery is an expendable item & more so after a r.r failure.

[Scratcher]

yeah it has a new battery too, could it be the stator??

[benny hedges]

check all the earths first mate and connections to solenoid etc