Hey folks,
The bolt which holds the flywheel onto the crankshaft is supposed to be set to 157NM according to Mr Haynes.
Now... I've tried putting the bike in gear with an assistant holding down the back brake, and using a strap wrench to hold the flywheel tight, but to get the bolt to anywhere near that torque results in the engine turning anyway. The brake and strap wrench just can't hold it tight enough.
I don't have a big enough adjustable spanner to put onto the flats of the inside part of the flywheel, so that's out... any other ideas?
Will it cause any unnecessary stress/wear/issues if this is only tightened to say 130NM instead of the 157NM it says in the book?
Cheers,
Matt.
Flywheel Rotor Bolt Torque...
- benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Flywheel Rotor Bolt Torque...
tbh its more or less useless trying to torque a turning part with constant force.
much better to shock it on... youll get it a lot tighter.
as with anything on the storm (or any other vee) use locking compound on the nut.
you can get the nut well tight enough with a 1/2" drive 17mm socket & bar, just by whacking it with a hammer while holding the flywheel / rotor.
the stated method of tightening by putting in gear, standing on the brake is far from ideal due to the amount of stress it puts on the transmission, clutch, chain etc... not to mention the big clutch bearing.
much better to shock it on... youll get it a lot tighter.
as with anything on the storm (or any other vee) use locking compound on the nut.
you can get the nut well tight enough with a 1/2" drive 17mm socket & bar, just by whacking it with a hammer while holding the flywheel / rotor.
the stated method of tightening by putting in gear, standing on the brake is far from ideal due to the amount of stress it puts on the transmission, clutch, chain etc... not to mention the big clutch bearing.
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: Flywheel Rotor Bolt Torque...
I made a rotor clamp out of an old can clamp, and a length of studding with two nuts.
It clamps round the outside but with a gap of about 60cm between the clamp ends.
The studding is too long, and this allows me to brace the studding that protrudes against the footrest casting, and allows the bolt to be tightened without stress to the transmission.
Cheap as chips!
And the rubber insert prevents damage to the rotor perimeter.
It clamps round the outside but with a gap of about 60cm between the clamp ends.
The studding is too long, and this allows me to brace the studding that protrudes against the footrest casting, and allows the bolt to be tightened without stress to the transmission.
Cheap as chips!
And the rubber insert prevents damage to the rotor perimeter.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
- benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Flywheel Rotor Bolt Torque...
genius.tony.mon wrote:I made a rotor clamp.


extractor is on a 9am btw

You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
Re: Flywheel Rotor Bolt Torque...
Rattle gun. Keep your eye out for an Aldi sale, got mine for £30, Chinese, but its lasted me nearly two years.
Does clutch centers, fork leg bottom retaining bolts, primary sprockets and is invaluable for rusted or siezed bolts.
Does clutch centers, fork leg bottom retaining bolts, primary sprockets and is invaluable for rusted or siezed bolts.
Re: Flywheel Rotor Bolt Torque...
Just posted a "how to" in Workshop.


It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.