Hi all just a couple of easy questions....
1. im looking to replace Chain and Sprockets for the up and coming Summer. Now i made the mistake of dropping 1 tooth on the front and was informed (very reliably as it happens) that this would speed up the wear on the chain due to the maths involed. So with a wad of doller in my sky rocket, what would you guys suggest for a quality new chain and sprocket combo (id like a gold chain and rear sprocket)
2. iv up rated the front Calipers for a set of CBRr's so im now after a quality set of pads, any ideas guys.
Many thanks for any input. Id like my next chain to last for more than 5mins so any advice on the number of teeth to add or take away will be welcomed. Thanks you lot
i know where your cummin from Lumpy, but i was warned by another forum member that by only dropping 1 tooth on the front sprocket it would lead to the chains premature demise ( somthing about the maths involved) ultimatly they were correct as the chains lasted no where near as long as it should of. I intend buying a scott oiler shortly.
iirc i've done, -1 front(15t) and +1 rear(42t), this is supposed to make the chain wear at a normal rate, whilst giving improved acceleration but a slightly lower top speed, and seen as i speed less than 1% of the time at 150mph (on a private rd officer)
i think its pretty good, on the downside when my speedo now reads 30mph, i'm truely only doing 24mph, hence i need a speedo healer, the only other thing is that if i am giving it the beans and i'm the wrong side of 100, the bike feels like it could do with another gear, but then i've geared it down so thats a downside....i hope some of this info helps buddy
I've went down one tooth on the front. The only reason it makes chain wear quicker is the chain is rotating quicker (therefore doing more revolutions per mile) and the chain is going round a tighter front sprocket (smaller due to less teeth), thus increasing wear.
Bear in mind the chain is sealed (o ring or x ring) and all chain lube is doing is oiling the outside of the rollers to reduce friction and keep corrosion away. The pivots of the chain contain grease which is sealed in by the o or x rings and this isnt replacable, but this is what wears quicker due to the smaller sprocket. A scott oiler wont make a huge difference to counteract this issue.
I have a speedohealer and the correction figure was 11.1% to counteract the smaller front sprocket and to also correct the manufacturers built in 5% innacuracy. It now reads spot on.
I really don't think you need to go any more than +1 tooth on the rear, any more and it can hamper you going into turns, +1 gives slightly better acceleration, bigger easier wheelies of thats your thing and doesn't effect fuel consumption too much, the firestorm works well like this. I briefly tried -1 on the front and imo these bikes don't respond well to it like an il4 does.
Buy a good quality chain, RK or DID are good, Triple S are not !
Pads, EBC HH have good power and feel, last well too.
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2014 CRMC Post classic Superbike champion.
2014 CRMC Post classic senior production champion. On a Suzuki Katana 1100
My bikes, Firestorm, Suzuki GSX-s1000 Katana, VFR800Fi. Projects, 1986 popup Katana, 3 XJ600’s
many thanks for the input guys. It sems you all (as expected) are spot on with the knowledge. Im gunna try the +1 on the Rear instead of -1 off of the Front. (especialy as i like to pop the front wheel) when im on a closed, private road officer Many thanks for the brake pad opions ill have to do some research.
darrenmartin wrote: many thanks for the input guys. It sems you all (as expected) are spot on with the knowledge. Im gunna try the +1 on the Rear instead of -1 off of the Front. (especialy as i like to pop the front wheel) when im on a closed, private road officer Many thanks for the brake pad opions ill have to do some research.
All personal preference and depends what type of riding do.
Will need to go 2 or 3 up on rear to be same as minus 1 on front - especially if like acceleration and popping wheelies. I'm not that interested in anything above 120mph so its all about acceleration and drivability for me which minus 1 on front has given me. It still does 140mph (calibrated).
darrenmartin wrote: many thanks for the input guys. It sems you all (as expected) are spot on with the knowledge. Im gunna try the +1 on the Rear instead of -1 off of the Front. (especialy as i like to pop the front wheel) when im on a closed, private road officer Many thanks for the brake pad opions ill have to do some research.
All personal preference and depends what type of riding do.
Will need to go 2 or 3 up on rear to be same as minus 1 on front - especially if like acceleration and popping wheelies. I'm not that interested in anything above 120mph so its all about acceleration and drivability for me which minus 1 on front has given me. It still does 140mph (calibrated).
My chain is lasting fine so far.
+1 I must add, the amount of miles you loose which is not that significant in comparison with the fun you get from gaining quicker acceleration, is definitely worth it I reckon. But then again, it's all about your preference mate! As for the gearing ratio, just think of it in terms of the front sprocket is about 3 times smaller then the rear sprocket, there for it is almost equal -1 front to +3 rear
You never see a motorcycle parked in front of a psychiatrists for psycho therapy. All I need is cycle therapy
I have a 16 x 44 teeth set up, after 3 other goes, a 15 x 41, 16 x 45 and a 15 x 41 the 15 x 43 was "exciting" the speedo was showing 100 when actually doing 80 ish......very lively in the lower gears and wheelies were the norm if you were in any slight hurry, I have settled on the 16 x 44 which gives good chain life 15k so far, its a gold RK chain and sprocket, and the gearing is basically the same as a -1 on the front and this to me gives a good balance of chain life and good get aways.
Many thanks for the brake pad opions 
ill have to do some research.
