New Rings / New Engine

[seb421]

This engine is using to much oil now, what's easier get another engine again and do a transplant or change the piston rings in the existing one?

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[Steve6088]

What the heck are you doing to your engines? My last bike didnt burn a drop at 65k. I think lyodie is the specialist on this one

[Wicky]

Likewise, never had to top it up between oil changes.

Cheaper to bung some new rings in, though if the bores are damaged then it'll be slightly different story. Haven't you got some racier cams from the US to fit? If you've got the engine stripped down then you could add some tuning bits i.e pistons etc. Job done.

[seb421]

had to cancel all i had planned when work cut the hours

just last week got them back and a little more too


last engine didn't burn oil, but this one bloody does, don't know how its been treated in past, over the last 5 k the engine has progressively felt more loose

[bsabloke]

probably the cost of rings & gasket set is equivalent to replacement engine.
a quicker turnaround just swapping engines. if you rebuild yours you will have the satisfaction it has been done.
all depends on how much time & money you have.
an engine swap to get you away, then rebuild your own one if you have spare cash.
richard

[tony.mon]

No point just fitting new rings, you'll have to hone the bore to break the glaze anyway, and you'll probably find that you have to go to oversize, which will mean a rebore and new pistons as well.
Once you're in that deep, there's no point not fitting new big end and main bearing shells, and the large bearing behind the clutch also needs to be replaced.

But as said, you'll have an as-new engine to play with for another 30-80,000 miles.

Personally I'd fit high comp pistons instead of std ones, you might as well, they'll cost a bit more (std pistons are surprisingly cheap) but will last just as long.

That shd keep you busy for the weekend.

[VTRDark]

You should do a compression test first and try to determine if the fault is the bottom end. You may just need some new valve stem oil seals, Does you exhaust smoke much bluey white smoke? If you have good compression then the rings are OK.

(:-})

[seb421]

You should do a compression test first and try to determine if the fault is the bottom end. You may just need some new valve stem oil seals, Does you exhaust smoke much bluey white smoke? If you have good compression then the rings are OK.

(:-})

Yeh tad of smoke now, if you wang it open it will chuck some out the exhausts, what do I require to do the test?

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[seb421]

No point just fitting new rings, you'll have to hone the bore to break the glaze anyway, and you'll probably find that you have to go to oversize, which will mean a rebore and new pistons as well.
Once you're in that deep, there's no point not fitting new big end and main bearing shells, and the large bearing behind the clutch also needs to be replaced.

But as said, you'll have an as-new engine to play with for another 30-80,000 miles.

Personally I'd fit high comp pistons instead of std ones, you might as well, they'll cost a bit more (std pistons are surprisingly cheap) but will last just as long.

That shd keep you busy for the weekend.

How much money are we talking mate I don't want to throw any more at this bike If I'm honest

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[tony.mon]

Last one I did it cost around £600 for parts.

I came to the conclusion that unless you really wanted to keep that particular bike, swap engines and sell it on in a good time of year, then buy something like an Sp1/2.

But I've grown quite attached to mine, so will persevere for now.

[StormingHonda]

Personally I would buy another engine, and swap them, then strip the old one down and rebuild it groud upwards, then your have a spare refurbished engine sitting there to play with.

[VTRDark]

what do I require to do the test?

A compression tester.



(:-})

[AMCQ46]

Seb, do you want to borrow mine? Everybody else has

Pm me an address ...oh hold on does lloydie still have them? Bloody dementia

[popkat]

tester about £15-20 on ebay. from the smoke you decribe it sounds like stem seals..

here's how to use it.. remove spark plugs, diconnect coils (you don't want a bolt off them), connect to one cylinder then full throttle and crank it over, compression should go up pretty quick on the gauge and settle, about 5 seconds or so, if it settles low then rises slowly you have sticky rings. if it comes up ok but is too low then it's either rings or valve stem seals/valve guides/bent valve or burnt out valve. to find out if it's rings or the head pour some oil (teaspoon full) down the bore leave it a few mins then test again, if compression comes up good then your problem is the rings, if compression still low it's the head and probably just valve stem seals as you've said it's burning oil. Repeat for other cylinder..
when the heads off it's easy to do a leak test on the valves before taking valve springs off, then when replacing seals measure the guides to be sure

The workshop manual should have compression figures in psi, there will be an upper and lower limit.

Compression test is best done hot as figures are usually quoted as hot, trouble is you'll burn your hands easily, Do it cold then add 5% to the figure for a hot reading,,

[lloydie]

Seb, do you want to borrow mine? Everybody else has

Pm me an address ...oh hold on does lloydie still have them? Bloody dementia

Lol I do ha ha .
I was going to drop it off at the weekend .
I need an excuse to take kermit for a run :-)