bike wont rev past 7 help please

[fordstorm]

Ok so since i have had my firestorm it has never reved past 7000 under load however will when not riding... When i bought the bike the bloke told me carbs have been balanced and valve clearences have been done but had evidence of this... The side of the engine casing were the Alan key is has been chewed up so don't know what's gone on there is it possible that someone has done work to the bike and not timed it up properly?? If so why does it rev perfectly up to around 7 when riding then struggles to rev further?? I have recently put new plugs in so its nothing to do with that only thing i can think is mabe needs setting up or carbs balancing any help would be much appreciated cheers

[Kev L]

Carl will be along to explain, having had a very similar experience with AP's bike recently.

[Virt]

I'm far from an expert as I'm capable of talking nout but crap normally..

But 7k usually means (I think) that Cam Timing is 180 degrees out and so the airbox doesn't have enough air in it between the cylinders firing to get past 7k rpm. I'm sure someone will tell you how to fix this, I think you can use the Stopper mod guide in the workshop by Chris, or the manual guide by Carl to redo the timing? I dunno. Someone will be along soon

[Kev L]

Very good young Virt. You is learning!!!!!!!!!!!

[fordstorm]

Ok hopefully. Mite be getting somewere i will wait for more posts but just to add it will rev past 7 if i hold the throttle open but it really does not like it and its like hitting a limiiter and no point trying to rev through it as it has no power and sounds like its gonna blow up

[agentpineapple]

yup 180 out, have you had the cct's replaced recently?
come on carl, help the brother out....

[agentpineapple]

your top speed will be about 110/120mph, and as you said the bike doesn't like it at all. but its strangely faster away from standstill...

[fordstorm]

I have just bought some manual ccts and will be fitting them this weekend so autos are in there atm and there is a loud rattle doesn't sound good anyway sounds like a hamster is living in there going round on a squeeky wheel lol that's no joke :\

[Kev L]

Don't start it any more mate. Have a good read up of the CCT fitting instructions on here and check the info on re-setting the timing.

[agentpineapple]

don't start the engine, it sounds like the front cct's failed, have a read thru the workshop section before you do anything else.

[agentpineapple]

Don't start it any more mate. Have a good read up of the CCT fitting instructions on here and check the info on re-setting the timing.

you beat me to it grandad......

[Kev L]

Beaten by a Grandad! There is nothing left for you now fella. Hang your head in shame!!

[agentpineapple]

Beaten by a Grandad! There is nothing left for you now fella. Hang your head in shame!!

i'll get my coat, again........

[darkember]

Hi Fordstorm & welcome. We met at the bus station last weekend

As you will see this place will answer all you questions. Definitely your timing is out by 180 degrees. When you do the manual tensioners that is when you will need to reset the timing.

Follow the following link to the T & do not deviate, in your case you would be wise to strip the bike back so that both cam covers are removed to enable the correct timing to be achieved. If you need a hand I'm only down the road. Just take your time.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=28583

[VTRDark]

I agree sounds like the timing is out 180 degrees. But what s worrying me more right now is this rattle. Is this coming from the front cylinder by any chance. Either way you going to have to take the cam covers off to do the MCCT's. I suggest you get these done first by following the guide. While your doing this pay particular attention to the cam sprocket timing marks FI and FE on the front and RI and RE on the rear. You want to make sure that your CCTs have not failed and jumped any teeth.

As the timing being out wont make any difference to the timing marks and everything will look as it should. Just don't put the rear cam cover or chain guide back on just yet or apply any sealant to the thread on the rear tensioner.

Then to sort out the 180 degree out. Make sure the rear cylinder is set to RT at the crank (generator cover) with both the cam lobes on the rear cams pointing upwards and inwards. Note the marking on the outside of the cam sprockets RI and RE they will both be level with the top of the head on the outside. You will then be at TDC on the compression stroke. You can then safely loosen off the rear MCCT that you just fitted so the chain is slack.

You now have to remove both cams, so undo the four 10mm bolts on each cam cap. Well three bolts in each if you never put the chain guide back. The important thing when removing the cams is not to loose the chain down inside the engine. So be careful and tie it up out the way or get a metal coat hanger and use that as a hook to hold it up so it don't get lost. Better still get a helper to keep hole of it, as they will also come in useful in a minute.

OK now turn the crank anticlockwise 1 full turn anticlockwise until the RT comes back around and lines up again. While your doing this have you helper hold the chain and feed it around as you turn the crank over. You can now put the cam back in the same way they came out. Cam lobes pointing upwards and inwards. You also need to make sure that the RI and RE are levl with the head as before. When putting the chain back over the cam sprockets keep it taught on the inlet side, so opposite side to the MCCT, the MMCT will take up the slack from that side. Once this is done you can then tighten back down the cam caps and then apply some sealant along the thread of the CCT and tighten up as per the MMCT Guide in my Signature.

Hope that makes sense. Have a good read through the MMCT guide as it will make a whole lot more sense to you then. I think I even covered the cam sprocket marks.

Anything your unclear off, just ask.

(:-})