engine rebuild

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macin
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engine rebuild

Post by macin »

Hello all

yesterday i have started to do some good things with my engine, it is sc36 1999 year with 13.000 km
i took out headers, engine is clean, smooth cylinders inside, some black coating on pistons, can't found anything wrong, i will post pictures on sunday

What i have found it that when i put gasoline to rear header in suction hole, there is wet coming out from vale, same with exhaust, so i need to do some repairs with all valves i think (lapping valves ? or repleace with new ones and lapping)

what am i concerned about is :
water pump, it is hard to turn it, i thought it will move really easy, is that okay ?
before i moved engine i checked spark, light was almost invisible, really thin (iridium), should it be that way? maybe it is because of a coil ? cables ?

next on my list:
laping valves
planning headers
gaskets
setting up valves and crankshafts

next on my mind ... is it possible to replace carbs with fuel injection ?
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tony.mon
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by tony.mon »

Yes, there's a lot of resistance on the water pump, that's why an electric pump gets you an extra BHP.

Iridium plugs don't give a fat spark but they develop better power, and wear less.
Fit them but throw them away after 5000 and fit new ones.

Fi?
You can, just use Varadero XL1000 injectors, cdu and ecm and loom.
But it won't run as well as the carbs.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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macin
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by macin »

tony.mon wrote: Fi?
You can, just use Varadero XL1000 injectors, cdu and ecm and loom.
But it won't run as well as the carbs.
this is all i wanted to know, thank you Tony.
I will stay with carbs then and replace new iridium plugs

I'll keep You up to date what i am doing with engine ( wrong or correct )
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macin
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by macin »

OK i have some pictures of my valves ...

Front:
Image

Rear:
Image

valves was dry, i just put a gasoline in intake and exhaust hole and this is what i saw after, so what we see is that only one exhaust valve in front header is keeping pressure, 7 need to be fixed

and i am concerned about one more thing

Image

this mark from crankshaft on the header, should it look that way ?

oh and one more question, did anyone use colortune plug to set carb ?
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tony.mon
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by tony.mon »

If you mean the kine in the camshaft journal bearing surface, yes, it's normal.
Just lap all of the valves in.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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macin
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by macin »

yes Tony, this is what i mean, thank You, my english about engine build is not so good ...

and what about colortune plug? did You ever used it before to set air / fuel mixture ?



and do i have to do head milling? of course on both heads
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tony.mon
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by tony.mon »

macin wrote:
and what about colortune plug? did You ever used it before to set air / fuel mixture ?

No, got one but never tried it. It would be set too far down and not visible at all, I would have thought.


and do i have to do head milling? of course on both heads
Milling the heads is not necessary the way it might be on an il4, as the head area is so small it can't warp enough to cause a problem. But you can raise the compression a little, try 1mm off the heads but check valve clearance before properly fitting the heads on.
If you build the head with only one spring in each position then you can rotate the crank 1 degree at a time pushing the valve down until the coil spring binds or the valve touches the piston. Measure the minimum and ensure that you're happy with that clearance.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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macin
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by macin »

okay so i gave headers to specialist, he will do his magic i hope

and i just bought gaskets set, plugs

all i need now are manual cct, i tried to email Rider on the storm but no reply until now, hope he will make a set of cct for me

headers and valves should be ready for tommorow so i will let You know details
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Wicky
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by Wicky »

Re, Manual CCTs Try Rob de Hoo in Holland. He's Krieger's European distributor. > http://www.exhausist.com
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macin
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by macin »

finally got headers

Image

Image

Image

milling was 0.12 mm, should be fine now, just mix it up togeather and we will see :sick:
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Mav617
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by Mav617 »

Bazza may have some manuals, if not these are cheaper than Kreigers:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-MANUAL-CAM- ... 20d5145a38
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macin
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by macin »

hi after a little posting break

i have painted my toy and gathering all togeather, so it is time to assembly engine and i have a problem ...

my both headers were off, manual say that first thing to do is to set RT on crankshaft, then check rear timing marks inward of outward, but theye were off, when they should be inward and when outward ? how i can recognize that ? i know that ignition should be in te right place, so it does matter how I will set it, i think, so I please if anyone of You guys can help me with that, I would appreciate

i have read that when i reach RT mark i should got TDC on rear piston, but if i round crank 380 anticlockwards i think there still be TDC on RT mark, i hope i am wrong and TDC would be only in one RT mark

oh and one more question, if this theory is right, when i reach TDC and RT mark on rear sprocket marks RI and RE should be inwards or outwards ?

hm or maybe i am looking for "GOOD TDC" for rear piston?

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4825

but still i don't know if i am good or bad rt tdc and setting rear marks, i think the answer will be with ignition pulse generator, not easy for me

oh and a picture for You guys, this are the colors

Image

Image
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VTRDark
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by VTRDark »

Hey macin those cylinder heads look nice. did you have new valve seats installed they very shiny. As for the timing use the following guide http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=28583 The pictures alone will give you a good idea.
i think there still be TDC on RT mark, i hope i am wrong and TDC would be only in one RT mark
The RT mark can be either on the compression or exhaust stroke so be careful. You can verify compression stroke by the position of the cam lobes.

Basically you want to be at TDC on the compression stroke. Crank will be at the RT mark and the rear cam lobes will be pointing up and in. Then turn the crank 450 degrees which is 1 1/4 turns anticlockwise until you come around to the FT for the front. Front cam lobes will be pointing up and out.

See the guide in the link :thumbup:

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darkember
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by darkember »

He needs to be careful as he has had both heads off at the same time hopefully you will have set the crank to either front or rear TDC prior to removing the heads that way you will be able to work back from there.
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macin
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Re: engine rebuild

Post by macin »

cybercarl seats were machined a little, there was no need to change them now, next time i should i think

darkember You are right, i got both heads off and it is hard to find right Good TDC for rear without cams, but still i think the biggest help would be ignition pulse generator on side cover (below water pump) but i can't found which position it should be

did anyone notice about firing spark ? i mean does spark fire every 360 degree of crankshaft ? if yes, there is no problem for me and i can get Good TDC in every place i want on RT mark and with that point i should time every other settings
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