Fork springs

[budd]

Yesterday I received some K-tech springs (great service again from Brook suspension of Bradford), fitting them presented a few problems, firstly despite my best efforts to keep everything in one place when stripping the forks I managed to misplace one of the joint plate ( basically a washer that separates the spring > spacer assembly) a quick trip to Paggetts sorted that out (£5.50 for a bloody washer) new joint plate (washer) in hand I head home and start to re-assemble only to find one of the U shaped spring retainers is now also missing, bugger !!! It looks like another trip to Paggetts is on the cards. Before I set off to get a new one I notice some of my tools are also AWOL at this point suspicion falls on my young son who has been assisting (well getting in the way mainly) and also it seems collecting tools and as it turns out a joint plate and retaining clip, so youngster banished into the house I’m free to reassemble the forks.
Next issue (if it is indeed a problem) and the one I’m after some advice on is the free length of the new springs, am I right in saying the free length of the OE spring/spacer assembly should be 410mm total length ? OK the new spring is 5mm longer so the free length of the new (K-tech) spring and spacer is 415mm add to this the joint plates and retainer it’s something in the region of 418mm.

I figured it would probably be OK so I didn’t bother trimming the spacer to get it exactly 410mm now I’m thinking maybe I should have.

I realise that it’s only 5>8mm and my assumption is this won’t have noticeable effect overall, am I correct in this thinking? or should I be trimming a few mm off the spacer?

Anyway those issues aside the forks are now re-built, re-installed with 8.5kg rate, 7.5wt oil, 140mm air gap and tapered damper rod, I took it for a quick spin last night with everything is backed off, 0 pre load and damper turned fully out and I have to say it was a massive improvement, although this is probably not all due to the springs it’s more likely down to the front tyre pressure which was a slightly shocking 17psi OOPs, I’d guess this was causing the vague and wayward front end, and goes to prove you should endeavour to get the basics right prior to any other work, lesson learned.

So next job is to set the static sag, I’ll bring a tape measure and 14mm spanner with me tomorrow to Squires where hopefully the combined experience of the campers should see the sag set without issue.

[AMCQ46]

if you can set the sag ok without cutting the spacer then you are OK, but if you cant get enough sag then you will need to take them appart and cut 10mm off.

damper fully out should be a bit bouncy when riding, they end up needing to be about 1 to 1.25 turns from fully out.

when you push down, they should return up as fast as possible without overshooting

[gl_s_r]

Al... is that correct with the rebound one turn or so in from fully out.... or is it fully in and the wind out a turn or so till its not bouncy?

[AMCQ46]

Al... is that correct with the rebound one turn or so in from fully out.... or is it fully in and the wind out a turn or so till its not bouncy?

good catch... from fully in was what i was thinking but I was multi tasking and listening to a conference call at work so I must have heard some one say "out" and my fingers followed

[budd]

hopefully I can get the required sag as is but it's not a big deal if I have to take 10mm or so off the spacer and I'll leave the damping till I get the sag set correctly, I only went for a brief road test yesterday, I had intended to go a bit further but the fuel ight came on so I went to the pub instead and today it's pi$$ed down all day so I haven't touched it hopefully the weather will improve for the weekend.