VTR1000.ORG

That's right, my first experience with VTR ownership is with a non-running 2005 Honda VTR1000 Superhawk. I paid $1250 for this one and it comes with a clear title. It has new tires and a new battery. Baring a few scratches the paint looks really good with zero dents in the tank. It has all the lights and turns signals. I heard it run (just briefly). I am the third owner from new. It has a Two Brothers exhaust system. According to the paper work I am the third owner from new. I have all the service paper work including the new bike sale packet from the dealer.

I heard it run long enough to diagnose a sloppy timing chain on the front cylinder. It sounds nasty. The story was the owner rode it a mile and it started making noise. He rode home and at the end of his drive it quit. I am pretty sure the front cylinder timing chain tensioner stopped working and that it has bent a valve(s). It has an oil leak on the drive side engine cover. Both rear view mirrors are broken and the drive chain and sprockets are shot (normal). The triple clamp looks like crap. It's cosmetic, I know, but it is faded gray and key scraped. It make the whole bike look shabby.

The Two Brothers exhaust system is a slop fest. I have never seen an exhaust system that is so sloppy. The pipe joints, with tight clamps are not tight at all. It’s just strange that a system that cost so much is so floppy. I got the title work done yesterday so it is mine in the eyes of the state of Texas. The manual adjusters are already on the way. Next weekend I’ll strip it down. I won't let little things like slipped timing chains and bent valves put me off. I’ll tear it down and get it scattered all over the shop. My favorite bikes are the ones that come in a couple of boxes.

I have a bit of experience riding the VTR. I do contract work for a local Honda shop. During the summer we sponsor group rides. At the time I was between bikes and so I pulled a VTR off the used bike line to ride. I rode it about 150 miles and had a blast. Currently I ride a 2000 VFR800 which is my favorite plus I have a 2001 Kawasaki Concours and a 73 Norton Commando I keep as a pet. The Norton is great fun but stuff falls off if your not careful.

hello big jim

sounds like you went into this purchase with your eyes wide open so after a bit of fettling and a few $$,s you will have a decent bike..

I like that grey, we don't see many that colour over here much.

just out of interest, if the bike had been a good runner what sort of price would you have expected to pay ? ?

happy new year.

nice looking project you have there.
too bloody cold for any work in the man cave here.
Welcome to this mad house of craziness

wow looks a good project keep us posted

that was a bargain, once you sort the engine and the minor cosmetic issue's you'll have a really nice bike, I don't think we got that colour option in the uk, and I like it very much, good luck buddy.....

lumpyv wrote:hello big jim

sounds like you went into this purchase with your eyes wide open so after a bit of fettling and a few $$,s you will have a decent bike..

I like that grey, we don't see many that colour over here much.

just out of interest, if the bike had been a good runner what sort of price would you have expected to pay ? ?

happy new year.

A VTR in this condition would have been around $2700 (winter price) and maybe $3000 in the summer. Yes, I like the grey too. It's funny but it seems that Honda was trying to tone down the sporty aspect with a subdued more stately color. The color is kind of rare here too. I don't think Honda sold many VTRs. I think there is a prejudice against twins in the sport bike crowd. I don't care. I have a lot of seat time on sporting Guzzies so I like the big twins.

I did a lot of research online before I even looked at the bike. I wanted to know what I was getting myself into. As you say, a bit of fettling, a bit of coin, some attention to detail and the bike will be a good runner.

grumpyfrog wrote:nice looking project you have there.
too bloody cold for any work in the man cave here.
Welcome to this mad house of craziness

Thanks for the "welcome." It is pretty cold out in the shop around here but I plan on bundling up, switching on the halogen work lights, which are good for a little warmth, and switching on the Led Zeppelin which is perfect back ground music for stripping a bike and for getting the blood up. My biggest issue is light. The older I get the more light I need to see anything in detail. I keep a torch handy and I even wear one on my forehead. It looks silly as hell but it works a treat.

More bad pictures:

Greetings - Titanium Grey paint (code should be on the subframe under the seat) looks good.

As I mentioned over on Superhawk.com make sure you take care resetting the timing when doing the CCTs.

Have a good read of the Bike Maintenance and Upgrades/Modifications FAQ inc the downloadable Service Manual found here: http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 23&t=31345

welcome big jim....looks good and sounds like you have the measure of it to make it a good bike

hello and welcome to the club

Welcome to the club Jim

Welcome aboard Jim I'd say you've got yourself a bargain there too

Chris.

Wicky wrote:Greetings - Titanium Grey paint (code should be on the subframe under the seat) looks good.

As I mentioned over on Superhawk.com make sure you take care resetting the timing when doing the CCTs.

Have a good read of the Bike Maintenance and Upgrades/Modifications FAQ inc the downloadable Service Manual found here: http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 23&t=31345

Hi Wicky!

Yep, I did register over at the superhawkforum.com. The UK group seems to be pretty active too and I like the sense of humor here. It's funny but before i started messing with "modern bike" (bikes made after 1970) I was heavy into British classic bikes. Most of my reading material came out of the UK and was filled with Ariels, Nortons, Triumphs and BSA motorcycles. I feel at home here. I can say this, bikes sure have come a long way since the classic days. Bikes are so much better now!

You hit the nail on the head and it has been something that has been troubling my mind. You said "Take care when rejigging the timing as it's easy to put it 360 out if following the popular manual's instructions."

The flywheel turns twice to the cams once. That means you can get the mark in one of two places. The mark must be aligned in the proper place in relation to the firing order of the rear cylinder. It could be timed to run out of optimum time and, as you said it probably would run, just not very well. The problem is exacerbated by the fact that I am loath to turn the engine over since more cam chain slippage could cause more damage. I will probably have to time the engine with the rear valve cover off so I know the firing order.

I had nightmares about this last night. It always seems complicated until you do it.

Big_Jim59 wrote: The flywheel turns twice to the cams once. That means you can get the mark in one of two places. The mark must be aligned in the proper place in relation to the firing order of the rear cylinder. It could be timed to run out of optimum time and, as you said it probably would run, just not very well. The problem is exacerbated by the fact that I am loath to turn the engine over since more cam chain slippage could cause more damage. I will probably have to time the engine with the rear valve cover off so I know the firing order.

I had nightmares about this last night. It always seems complicated until you do it.

Hi Jim,

If you suspect a bent valve you'll be having the front cam cover off as well as the front head, infact it's worth removing the head and doing a leek test on the valves, Even if you don't think the valves are bent and you just want to replace the tensioner and re time it would be better to remove front cam cover too, it's not that hard to do, also be sure to get the correct timing mark on the rotor, there's 2 lines close together one is correct the other can put you one tooth out, bike will still run but would be better done correctly ;)

As for setting up the valve timing, this link below by Cybercarl will explain how to fit manual CCT's (cam chain tensioners), the procedure will be the same for setting the valve timing regardless to what you are going to be putting back. I wrote one up myself on changing the CCT's before Carl did his, but mine is without any photo's.

Just don't follow the Haynes workshop manual if you should happen to have one (it's a bit mis-leading for the valve timing), I thought you may just have one seeing as you were into British bikes and magazines from the UK
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=28583

Chris.