Removing headers- rusted front

[ebenviljoen]

So i have noticed that the clamp holding my front header pipe to the engine is almost rusted through in one area. I have bought the set with wideband sensors fitted from Tony and very eager to fit these, but the gloom is still over my head on taking the current headers off. I will be buying a new set of engine studs to go with the new pipes. But I need some good advice on getting the old ones off and out successfully. Any tips will be much appreciated. Thanks, Eben

[VTR Phoenix]

Soak with wd40, wire brush and then soak again. Use a socket wrench rather than a spanner as the spanner puts a side force on the stud which can break it. Start by shocking it (few bangs on the side of the wrench with a hammer, unless you have an impact wrench rather than turning the socket. If it doesn't budge give it sime heat and try again. If that fails then cut not of with a dremel or similar, remove headers and if required use stud extractor to remove header studs.

[AMCQ46]

Use a nut splitter and then run a thread cutting die down the studs

[VTRDark]

Yeh if it's that badly corroded don't take the risk. If it goes wrong it's more hassle than what it's worth. Been there tried that and got a replacement head Nut splitter as Al's says and then put a new nut on.

[ebenviljoen]

thanks gents, I didn't even think of going down the nut splitter route. I am thinking it is very tight and need a splitter with a "side opening" if you wish to be able to fit between the pipe and nut. I recon this one would do:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/vehicle-j ... s/6188831/

I've got the dimensional drawing of this tool so will go and measure before I buy it. Which splitters did everyone else use?

[VTRDark]

That's an expensive one but a nice addition to the tool box. They come in all various sizes, but yeh that's the kind of device.

I just bought a couple of cheapy Chinese ones from Stall at Brands. The kit came with a large and small one.

[ebenviljoen]

Right gents, got the nuts off and the studs are in moderate good condition. Was still a massive pain to get off but i recon the nut splitter did save the studs.
My next question though,now that the nuts are off, how do i get the header out of the engine? It feels rather tight, shook it a bit but didnt want to over do it.

[KermitLeFrog]

Use a plastic headed hammer. Wiggle and tap. Wiggle and tap.

[VTRDark]

The rear should drop down and you can loosen and disconnect the rear link pipe and then it will all come out easily. Otherwise it does come out on the right hand side of the bike with a bit of twisting and turning but not easily. You will need to pull the front out to the side to manipulate it enough so may have to force that past some bits of the engine.

[agentpineapple]

USE A BIG HAMMER......Mwhahahahahahaha

[lloydie]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261553095157
The small one works very well .
Just remove the lip of the exhaust nut first .

[ebenviljoen]

Thanks gents, all removed successfully . Is there a gasket between the pipe and header? Do i have to replace it? Saw the aluminium fibre ones online.

[VTRDark]

There is a round gasket and as long as it's there you don't really have to replace it every time you remove the headers. The best ones are the doughnut shaped compressible copper rings like the originals. Those ally fibre ones on eBay are rubbish in comparison. I usually put a ring of heat resistant silicone around the pipes too when refitting as this makes sure there are no small leaks and resist vibration.

[ebenviljoen]

There is a round gasket and as long as it's there you don't really have to replace it every time you remove the headers. The best ones are the doughnut shaped compressible copper rings like the originals. Those ally fibre ones on eBay are rubbish in comparison. I usually put a ring of heat resistant silicone around the pipes too when refitting as this makes sure there are no small leaks and resist vibration.

Thanks Carl, yeah i saw the coppery bits but because they didnt look like the ally ons i was a bit confused. Ill get some silicone round them as you suggest.

[tony.mon]

Now the fun starts.... fitting it so that the two cans are at the same height and distance from the centre line.

Loose fitting every thing first is the key here.
The rear downpipe to system fit is key- if you push the system up too far onto the rear downpipe makes it impossible.