Clutch slips a little, handle disengages immediately.

[jollykreiger]

So I will try to make this as clear as possible.

I noticed that the clutch chatters on hard take offs or clutch dumps. The previous owner said that would happen and he would let a little fluid out and the clutch would work fine.

When I first got the bike the clutch release point was all funky, so I checked the fluid level and well... it was empty. So I started bleeding the clutch and as soon as I opened the bleeder it spat out some fluid then nothing. That was all the fluid there was. I proceeded to bleed the clutch which took forever, I'm guessing due to all the air. Now the clutch works great. It has a consistent feel and quick disengagement.

The problem is maybe its a little too quick disengagement. I barely touch the clutch and it releases by barely I mean like 1/8th" on the leaver and full disengagement. I think this is causing the slight slippage of the clutch under heavy load.

Has anybody else had this kind of problem? I am mechanically inclined, so dont be afraid to mention a taking things apart just out of curiousity if you think it will help, as well as I do have the service manual to help with things.

[Cadbury64]

One thing that you might check is the tiny bleed port in the master cylinder. If this gets restricted/blocked you can accumulate unwanted fluid pressure in the hydraulic line which can then preload the clutch springs before you touch the lever. Does the clutch get worse with use, or is it touchy from the first application?

Given your description of prior poor maintenance, a good clean out of the master cylinder and reservoir might be a good starting point.

[jollykreiger]

Now that you mention that it does seem like it might still get a little more touchy the longer into the ride.

I did not notice a bleeder at the bars, then again I wasn't looking for one either.

I will check again on my way back from lunch.

A good cleaning would defiantly help. This weekend I hope to pull the t-stat (it started running warmer last week even though the temps got colder around here) and check that out as well.

[tony.mon]

I'd suggest that you keep bleeding the clutch line- as you found, it takes forever to bleed and any small air bubbles in the line will affect lever action- also try tying it back to the bars overnight.
This has less effect on the clutch side as you can;t get as much pressure as you can with the brake side, merely pressure against the springs, but it all helps.

re slipping, this happens sometimes if you have used fully synthetic oil, semi synth cures it.
And the clutch will judder on high speed take off's- despite years of trying I have never managed to fix this, even with cable clutch conversions, kevlar clutch friction plates, replacing all clutch bearings etc.
It really ruins a run-what-you-brung dragstrip day, but it is what it is. I suspect a Sigma or other racing clutch with backslip-limiter will fix it, but I wasn't fussed enough to part with £600 to find out.
Just get the clutch home early and use the torque.

[Cadbury64]

Now that you mention that it does seem like it might still get a little more touchy the longer into the ride.

I did not notice a bleeder at the bars, then again I wasn't looking for one either.

I will check again on my way back from lunch.

A good cleaning would defiantly help. This weekend I hope to pull the t-stat (it started running warmer last week even though the temps got colder around here) and check that out as well.

Just to be clear, the bleed port is inside the reservoir, in the floor. There will be a large intake port, and the little bleed port. As the piston starts its stroke, there should be a small squirt of fluid from the bleed port.

A failing thermostat is more likely to cause the bike to run colder than usual as they normally fail in the open position. If the bike is running hotter than usual I would be looking at the radiator cap first, might not be holding the required pressure.

[jollykreiger]

Ok, I noticed that little port inside the reservoir, which actually looked really clean to me. I will try bleeding it again this weekend.

The clutch judder doesn't bother me as much as the slipping. So if that is normal... oh well I ride on a budget so its more maintenance and fuel costs is most that I worry about.

On the t-stat, I pretty much believe without a doubt it is bad. It actually never came off of cold until the other day when it started running right at the temp where it should be (I thought great it decided to start working, that's happened to me before with a thermostat in a vehicle that sat for a while) then after riding around aimlessly for an hour in town it started to heat up more so I just headed home. It hasn't warmed up all the way since then. My typical ride is 3 miles to the grocery store and back.

My honest thoughts on it is the T-stat is completely bad and something is now blocking it for some reason and causing enough restriction to heat it up slowly after long periods of riding. So this weekend I was gonna pull the stat and at a minimum flush the system. Might put it back in or not but either way I need to order a new T-stat.

The bike sat for 10 months after the P.O. laid it down and drove it home. He decided no more street bikes and never bothered to fix the peg that broke. Also I do understand that if I truly believe there is something causing a blockage inside the coolant passage in my engine that I could be creating a hot spot while running the engine. But I understand that risk and am willing to take it.

[Pete.L]

The clutch judder doesn't bother me as much as the slipping.

Just a thought.
If the clutch is still slipping and you have very little lever movement until full bite, it might just be the pushrod not seated correctly. There could be a load of dirt in the recess where the rod sits inside the slave housing.
Pull the cover off and give it a good clean out. There will probably be a few years of chain grease in there too.

Pete.l

[VTRDark]

But remember to remove the clutch lever first or you will be bleeding again

[The End]

But remember to remove the clutch lever first or you will be bleeding again

Remove the lever or tie it inwards (as if being held in) to the bar?

Because I've read two different ways of doing it on here.

[MacV2]

But remember to remove the clutch lever first or you will be bleeding again

Remove the lever or tie it inwards (as if being held in) to the bar?

Because I've read two different ways of doing it on here.

No take it off !

Leave it on or worse tie it back puts preassure on the slave cylinder which pushes it out & lets air into the system hence the need to re bleed...

[tony.mon]

Agree, take it off. Tying it back to the bar is a method to eradicate small air bubbles after bleeding. You should never tie it back with the slave cylinder off.

[sirch345]

+2 take it off,

Chris.

[VTRDark]

I must admit I have tied it back in the past and it works to a degree as long as your careful with undoing and doing up the bolts a bit at a time in a criss cross pattern on the sprocket cover. Nowadays I remove the lever, it's loads easier.

[Pete.L]

I don't do either. I have a small G clamp I put around the slave unit which stops the piston moving all together. Much easier imho


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[Kev L]

I don't do either. I have a small G clamp I put around my slaves unit which stops the piston moving all together. Much easier imho


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Just change one word and the context is much more in your realm Pete, hmmmmm