Bolt removal specialist
- StormyRob
- Posts: 1565
- Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2015 7:33 am
- Location: Northern Ireland. The place of legend
Bolt removal specialist
I don't suppose any of you would know a bolt removal specialist in the south East? The front Bolt in the engine/frame is seized solid. Nothing will get it out and I don't want to end up damaging the frame or engine with more extreme methods.
Thanks.
Thanks.
If you don't try you never know if you can do it.
Re: Bolt removal specialist
Just look for a local enginering firm Rob...
I doubt you'll get much joy serching Yell dot com for 'Bolt removal specialist'.
They can be a bitch to get out... I've done 3...
1st one came out with aplication of a large hammer & lots of effort...apart from the bolt being fecked no other damage.
2nd one I had to cut the git out...Damage to frame but was reused with a spacer...
3rd one slipped out no worries...
You need to soak the offending area with plus gas...not bloody wd40... Normaly the bolt rusts & seizes in the bit where it goes through the top mount on the motor...on the side with the spacer...
Put a nut on the end of the bolt to protect the thread a get medieval with the biggest hammer you have...Dont be shy you will need to bash the fecker !...Once you get it moving remove the nut & use a smaller diameter spindle to carry on with the hammer action...
I doubt you'll get much joy serching Yell dot com for 'Bolt removal specialist'.
They can be a bitch to get out... I've done 3...
1st one came out with aplication of a large hammer & lots of effort...apart from the bolt being fecked no other damage.
2nd one I had to cut the git out...Damage to frame but was reused with a spacer...
3rd one slipped out no worries...
You need to soak the offending area with plus gas...not bloody wd40... Normaly the bolt rusts & seizes in the bit where it goes through the top mount on the motor...on the side with the spacer...
Put a nut on the end of the bolt to protect the thread a get medieval with the biggest hammer you have...Dont be shy you will need to bash the fecker !...Once you get it moving remove the nut & use a smaller diameter spindle to carry on with the hammer action...
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
- StormyRob
- Posts: 1565
- Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2015 7:33 am
- Location: Northern Ireland. The place of legend
Re: Bolt removal specialist
I had the bolt in the end. Been hitting it with a club hammer f@#@ING hard. You think I should get plus gas instead and hit it some more tomorrow?
If you don't try you never know if you can do it.
Re: Bolt removal specialist
maybe this could help. I am sure you will find some usage in future :-)
http://www.jonnesway.co.za/?product=12- ... act-driver
edit: for hex bolt, ring spanner and hammer punch to the other end never failed for me.
http://www.jonnesway.co.za/?product=12- ... act-driver
edit: for hex bolt, ring spanner and hammer punch to the other end never failed for me.
Re: Bolt removal specialist
Yes Plus Gas is best...Or if you have the means heat...StormyRob wrote:I had the bolt in the end. Been hitting it with a club hammer f@#@ING hard. You think I should get plus gas instead and hit it some more tomorrow?
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
- StormyRob
- Posts: 1565
- Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2015 7:33 am
- Location: Northern Ireland. The place of legend
Re: Bolt removal specialist
Bought and put about a third of the can on it. Absolutely soaking. Will stick some more on early in the morning and then some more hammer time at lunch time.
If you don't try you never know if you can do it.
- bigtwinthing
- Posts: 5577
- Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 7:52 pm
- Location: Hampshire
Re: Bolt removal specialist
get some heat into it.
missing the noise, not the vibes. However never say never!
- StormyRob
- Posts: 1565
- Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2015 7:33 am
- Location: Northern Ireland. The place of legend
Re: Bolt removal specialist
I'll have to get one of those gas things then!
If you don't try you never know if you can do it.
Re: Bolt removal specialist
Use a heat gun to heat the metal around the bolt, mine goes upto 600 degree's. a good addition to the tool kit, they are cheap to buy and come in handy for other stuff too.
http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk ... 0wodwTIFQQ
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http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk ... 0wodwTIFQQ
.
http://www.bidefordmotorcycles.co.uk
2014 CRMC Post classic Superbike champion.
2014 CRMC Post classic senior production champion. On a Suzuki Katana 1100
My bikes, Firestorm, Suzuki GSX-s1000 Katana, VFR800Fi. Projects, 1986 popup Katana, 3 XJ600’s
2014 CRMC Post classic Superbike champion.
2014 CRMC Post classic senior production champion. On a Suzuki Katana 1100
My bikes, Firestorm, Suzuki GSX-s1000 Katana, VFR800Fi. Projects, 1986 popup Katana, 3 XJ600’s
-
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- Location: Whaplode Drove, Lincolnshire
Re: Bolt removal specialist
heat and soak then hammer.... then repeat until it comes out
Re: Bolt removal specialist
Thermite
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It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
- StormyRob
- Posts: 1565
- Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2015 7:33 am
- Location: Northern Ireland. The place of legend
Re: Bolt removal specialist
I'm just going to have to be patient. Wouldn't thermite be lovely
If you don't try you never know if you can do it.
- Saintsman27
- Posts: 727
- Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:28 pm
- Location: St Helens , Merseyside
Re: Bolt removal specialist
We all Santo know when you've blurted it out or
maybe you have by now
maybe you have by now
Re: Bolt removal specialist
Sometimes it's easier to hacksaw through the bolts at the frame adjuster junction to the engine boss, then, when the engine's out, remove the bits of bolt afterwards.
When installing the new engine and bolt just use a washer of equivalent thickness to the saw blade.
It works fine.
If the bits of bolt still won't come out you need to decide whether you need to save the old engine. Mostly people remove the old engine because of damage due to cct failure.
But if you still need to save it, cut sideways, along the length of the boss each side, and the bolt frees up.
Then get both bosses rewelded.
Although this sounds like a huge amount of work and expense it isn't, and saves spending days twatting it with a hammer getting nowhere.
I usually give up on day two and get the hlacksaw out.
What's a blurting tool, sounds useful?
When installing the new engine and bolt just use a washer of equivalent thickness to the saw blade.
It works fine.
If the bits of bolt still won't come out you need to decide whether you need to save the old engine. Mostly people remove the old engine because of damage due to cct failure.
But if you still need to save it, cut sideways, along the length of the boss each side, and the bolt frees up.
Then get both bosses rewelded.
Although this sounds like a huge amount of work and expense it isn't, and saves spending days twatting it with a hammer getting nowhere.
I usually give up on day two and get the hlacksaw out.
What's a blurting tool, sounds useful?
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Bolt removal specialist
Similar to a blurting fool, someone who makes unconsidered statements or replies, would be my guess!
Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF