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I'm struggling to get a water tight seal from the 15mm HEP20 pipe going into a compression fitting (as below).

(1) I have fitted an HEP20 s/steel insert into the end of the pipe in case you were wondering
(2) I'm using a copper olive as suggested by HEP20 rather than brass
(3) I've made sure the pipe is set back from the compression joiner stop by around 3mm before tightening up

What I'm I missing

Any help or advice would be very much appreciated,




Chris.

The PTFE around the threads won’t help mate, undo the compression back nuts and put a wrap around the face of the olive to improve the seal. If you’ve gone more than hand tight plus a quarter turn you can over compress the olive, crimp the pipe and that will leak as well. Just to confirm you’ve got the liner and the olive on the hep and an olive on the copper?

More Plumbers bums on here than Plumbers

Thanks Kev for trying to help

Oddly enough after a nights sleep I took a look at the joint in question this morning only to find it was dry, not weeping anymore I'll keep an eye on it,

Carl, you're not a lot of help this time

Chris.

Can I ask a question for the plumbers.

Honeywell zone valve, I have 2 of them, one guess one for heating and one for hot water. the one I think is for heating if I pull the lever over to open it slowly springs back, the other one is loose, I can just push it one side to the other with no effort. The water is circulating in the tank, I can hear it all the time, the pipes are hot but the boiler is off.

I'm guessing (doing a lot of that here) that the Zone valve is stuck open. Can I take the cover off and try to free of the motor/valve or whatever it is in there.
Will this fix it ? or should I buy a new valve ? or is it something else altogether ?
At the moment we are turning the power off on the wall to shut the thing up.

Cheers

.

Different types of valves can be removed in different ways
Most have two screws at opposite corners unscrew these to remove the head/ motor
From the valve you will then find a flat blade sticking out turn 90 degrees to open and close that zone
The one which is moving freely might have power going to it and this would be working correctly by doing this
If you switch of the heating and it returns on its own then it is working at least on the electrical side of things
The valve that you can feel springing back has no power going to it or is broken
Check that all room stats and tank stats are asking for heat

Reading that again got would appear that switch inside the valve is stuck on
There is a constant feed going to the valve so if the switch is Jamming the heating will go 24/7
No matter if the time clock is off or on
You may be able to pull on the micro switch inside the valve and stop it temporarily
How old are the valves
They do wear out and need replacing

Oh and would just like to state I'm not a plumber
Plumbers are electricians with their brains kicked out

Valves will be old, I've been here 12 years and not replaced them, the house has been here 24 years.

The cover has one screw underneath so should be pretty easy to get a look inside, I've seen similar valves on ebay, just need to get the cover off as the part number is underneath.


.

I got mistaken for a plumber today.

Knocked on a door, 'Hello, Pest control'

Woman leads me upstairs...Goes in the bathroom & points at the bath taps...

'Er..Pest control your reported Mice, are you seeing them up here ?'

''Your not the plumber then ?''

'No I did say pest control at the door...'

TBH this happens a lot...Both being mistook for a plumber & being taken up stairs by strange women...

MacV2 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:54 pm I got mistaken for a plumber today.

Knocked on a door, 'Hello, Pest control'

Woman leads me upstairs...Goes in the bathroom & points at the bath taps...

'Er..Pest control your reported Mice, are you seeing them up here ?'

''Your not the plumber then ?''

'No I did say pest control at the door...'

TBH this happens a lot...Both being mistook for a plumber & being taken up stairs by strange women...

If they let you in the house their definitely strange

popkat wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:28 pm Valves will be old, I've been here 12 years and not replaced them, the house has been here 24 years.

The cover has one screw underneath so should be pretty easy to get a look inside, I've seen similar valves on ebay, just need to get the cover off as the part number is underneath.


.

Easier to just get a new valve an put in due to there age
Just remember they have a constant live

macdee wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 9:17 pm

popkat wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:28 pm Valves will be old, I've been here 12 years and not replaced them, the house has been here 24 years.

The cover has one screw underneath so should be pretty easy to get a look inside, I've seen similar valves on ebay, just need to get the cover off as the part number is underneath.


.

Easier to just get a new valve an put in due to there age
Just remember they have a constant live

Hmm swap that first or last, well get it wrong and I guess it would be last anyway
Can a fused be removed from somewhere or is it really live all the time ?

.

You’ve got an S plan system poppers. The two port motorised zone valves need to be safely isolated before working on them. You can safely isolate at a fused spur but its unlikely the zone valves feed will be via a spur, it’ll be fed from the wiring centre.
Macdee, feck off you little git

As Kev has said there should be a spur to isolate the mains .this is usually beside the time clock or the wiring center (the box that all the motorized valves connect to )
when you have safely turn the power off to the wiring center you can disconnect the wires of the faulty M/V
best way to do this using a pair of side cutters
cut the wires leaving a small amount of the coloured instillation on that will help when connecting the new M/V
Connect one at a time to prevent the other wires from dislodging( there are quite a few wires in there be brave)
if not sure how to safely isolate the power just turn off at the mains and go for it