VTR1000.ORG

Hi All, So ive got my new 99 Storm in Blue. Good condition which is a surprise with about 40K on the clocks. No MCCTs done yet so yesterday I started on my first Job; strip down in preparation for the 'ade' MCCTs coming!

Started the Day like this:



Im now looking at this (although ive pushed it into the porch!):

Only thing left to do is slacken of rads and cooler and remove cam covers, ill do this once ive got the MCCTs in my hand though.


So once thats done ill probably do a mini service, its just had oil/filter, chain and sprokets done along with plugs. So I'll check valve clearances and fit some vaccum outlet pipes on the carbs to balance them with ease as I think they are abit out. Im also curious if theres a tried and tested airbox mod (other than a K & N) to help the bike breath better?

Now my previous bike which ill be breaking is a Yamaha(sorry I shouldnt have sweared) 1989 FZR1000, with a now completly knackerd clutch. Its heavily modified by myself with an R1 front end, r6 Rear end and swing arm and countless engine mods but ive not delved into that yet. Anyway here it is:



My plan once the storms MCCTs and mini service are done will be to swap front ends and to stick the R1 front end on the storm . I think Ive got lucky as the R1 bottom yoke has been fitted with the original FZR stem, this happens to be the same length as the storms! Its also the same dimensions in terms of headrace bearings!!! What a touch!

Watch this space, Ill let you know how i get on!

Im also curious if theres a tried and tested airbox mod (other than a K & N) to help the bike breath better?

No - unless you have access to a dyno and rejetting - the VTR's airbox and filter is very sensitive to changes in that dept. and doesn't readily tune with plug&play mods like an IL4. A K&N. with a dynojet kit will if properly set up only give about 5 horsies at the top end, if you just slap a K&N it'll lead to poor running.

Wicky wrote: ↑Sun Sep 13, 2020 2:26 pm

Im also curious if theres a tried and tested airbox mod (other than a K & N) to help the bike breath better?

No - unless you have access to a dyno and rejetting - the VTR's airbox and filter is very sensitive to changes in that dept. and doesn't readily tune with plug&play mods like an IL4. A K&N. with a dynojet kit will if properly set up only give about 5 horsies at the top end, if you just slap a K&N it'll lead to poor running.

Noted! I still can't believe the size of the carbs on this thing! That's why I presumed it need as much air as possible! I modded an old honda cbr400rr nc29 many years ago by installing RAM, is this even a remote possibility?

Ram air can be done

Your new bike does look in good condition I agree.

Good on you for making a start on fitting manual CCT's.
Handy having the R1 front end to use on your Storm

Chris.

Best colour (he he); welcome to the club

Well as I'm off work today and the MCCTs have cone I'm now doing them, started on the rear and found my first problem! The inlet cam must have jumped a couple of teeth as the piston is at TDC, the marking is exact to the write up(bloody good job BTW!) but the marking on the front cam is too far up and the cams are both in and up but noticeably at different angles! The rear marking lines up perfect although getting a pic is next to impossible!

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I'm guessing best course of action is to get chain off, adjust cams and get back on and hope its OK! A bit of history on the bike tells me the CCTS were done I think 10k ago but were replaced with standard Honda ones, so it might have been out for a while!?!?

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Took about 45mins to the rear, about 10-15 front which turned out to have perfect timing! Next issue whilst playing around, the start motor top cap nuts are rotten! Completely rusted rotten! Now to do my research for my options

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That should run a bit better!
Also check out the nut holding the starter lead into the motor terminal, they frequently corrode.

Top man jobs a good un

tony.mon wrote:That should run a bit better!
Also check out the nut holding the starter lead into the motor terminal, they frequently corrode.

Yeah that's the bit that's buggered. Just flacky rust. I've got a few starters in my boxes of spares(non vtr) but slim chance any will fit direct but I could maybe take apart and frankestein the bit I need (the motor connection)

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decent looking bike to be starting with... as for the airbox mods STEP AWAY from the airbox lol.... leave as honda built it unless u have a dyno and a spare year to waste.... dont ask me how i know

TheBozBoz wrote:

tony.mon wrote:That should run a bit better!
Also check out the nut holding the starter lead into the motor terminal, they frequently corrode.

Yeah that's the bit that's buggered. Just flacky rust. I've got a few starters in my boxes of spares(non vtr) but slim chance any will fit direct but I could maybe take apart and frankestein the bit I need (the motor connection)

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I used a stainless steel button head hex bolt when I had to replace mine and filed two flats on either side to make it fit.
I know stainless isn’t the best electrical conductor but at least the bigger didn’t rust again


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TheBozBoz wrote: ↑Tue Sep 15, 2020 10:58 am

tony.mon wrote:That should run a bit better!
Also check out the nut holding the starter lead into the motor terminal, they frequently corrode.

Yeah that's the bit that's buggered. Just flacky rust. I've got a few starters in my boxes of spares(non vtr) but slim chance any will fit direct but I could maybe take apart and frankestein the bit I need (the motor connection)

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When you are trying to remove the rusted nut(s) try not to let the bolt turn, if it does it can break the insulator inside the starter motor if you didn't already know,

Chris.