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The leak you mention at the sidestand is often the clutch slave cylinder weeping fluid which then drips down inside the clutch cover. Might be worth fitting new seals while you're getting greasy.

Think he all ready has one brace that is

one of your petrol tap hoses is in the wrong place!

the hose on the 6 o'clock boss is a tank breather and should be fitted to the smaller of the 2 nipples that come out of the tank to the right hand side of the tap.

the 6 o'clock nipple should have nothing attached to it, its just an atmospheric vent for the fuel tap vacuum diaphragm

Sealing up the breather tubes where they run into the airbox will result in high crankcase pressures. They are there to allow pumping pressures to release, blocking them just causes back pressure under the pistons as they descend, losing power.
Unless you have rerouted the breather pipes under the airbox somewhere out of sight?

Careful with the aftermarket fuel hose as it's quite a tight curve where it bends to connect onto the tank - the OEM hoses come precurved. I had a suprise one day when a hose had hardened and cracked leaking fuel over bike and me! so it was back to OEM hose.

Check that the 'oil' leaking down sidestand isn't either the result of over enthusiast low viscosity chain lubing or a leaky hydraulic clutch.

AMCQ46 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 16, 2020 9:58 pm one of your petrol tap hoses is in the wrong place!

the hose on the 6 o'clock boss is a tank breather and should be fitted to the smaller of the 2 nipples that come out of the tank to the right hand side of the tap.

the 6 o'clock nipple should have nothing attached to it, its just an atmospheric vent for the fuel tap vacuum diaphragm

Is this the let I know you're referring to?
The small tubing with what looks like a check valve in the tubing was not hooked up to anything when I pulled up the tank so I figured it fit that tiny nipple at 6 o'clock. I wasn't sure so I'll keep this in mind when I put it all together.
I do have a Coerce fork brace I'll be using when done.

tony.mon wrote: ↑Mon Nov 16, 2020 10:10 pm Sealing up the breather tubes where they run into the airbox will result in high crankcase pressures. They are there to allow pumping pressures to release, blocking them just causes back pressure under the pistons as they descend, losing power.
Unless you have rerouted the breather pipes under the airbox somewhere out of sight?

These were the tubes that connected to the small vents with the mini filters in them that I'm point to.
On the air box I am sealing that tube off but I wasn't sure what I should do with the port fitting I'm pointing at in the picture so any help on this would be appreciated. The actual crankcase tubes will be fitted with a coupling tube for a small pod filter so each carb can breath if that makes sense.
The two hoses you see in the picture below with the hose clamps still fastened on the end coming odd the valve covers I would think are the crankcase tubes, no?
Those two hoses were planned to have pod filters attached so they can breath.
I'm still learning this bike and the mods so bear with me while I go through this learning curve.

Last on the heavier fuel line I'll give it a go and if all fails or it won't make the bend I'll either go with new factory lines or use a pre-bent spring that maintains the shape of a hose for tight bends. I've used these in working with cars with much success and my Porsche 944 needed a couple of these when I I re-did all the fuel lines and water lines. Never had an issue.

Thanks for everyone's help and very much appreciated.

Pair valves replaced with plates and I did utilize the pair valve sans the reed for the gasket to seal the plates correctly. Seemed to work out great.

Last of the updates for a while as I head out back to work Wednesday.

Oh and as far as that oil leak I found out what the cause was for it.
Removing the chain guard and kick stand revealed the original owner NEVER cleaned the crap from the chain lube and it was like it wasn't cleaned since the bike was new.
It took an hour to literally clean the chain guard and the kick stand of all the chain lube garbage off.
I've still got a lot of cleaning to do in that area and will get back on it when I return home in about 4 weeks.

I'm actually glad the mcct's caused all this tear down to occur because I would have never realized how filthy certain parts of the bike were.

Also my last question for everyone as Intook notice that it would appear to be easier to gain access to certain areas of the motor and coolant hoses, would it be necessary to remove the carbs for better access?
There's a plastic liner separating the lower area of the bike that may need to come out for better access to the coolant hoses and looks difficult if the tray is there.
Thanks all.

misnblu wrote: ↑Tue Nov 17, 2020 4:54 am

AMCQ46 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 16, 2020 9:58 pm one of your petrol tap hoses is in the wrong place!

the hose on the 6 o'clock boss is a tank breather and should be fitted to the smaller of the 2 nipples that come out of the tank to the right hand side of the tap.

the 6 o'clock nipple should have nothing attached to it, its just an atmospheric vent for the fuel tap vacuum diaphragm

BEA04713-9B95-41D0-B892-0D204C71D7B7.jpeg

Is this the let I know you're referring to?
The small tubing with what looks like a check valve in the tubing was not hooked up to anything when I pulled up the tank so I figured it fit that tiny nipple at 6 o'clock. I wasn't sure so I'll keep this in mind when I put it all together.
I do have a Coerce fork brace I'll be using when done.

As Al (AMCQ46) pointed out, the hose you have fitted to the bottom of the fuel tap should be on the fuel tank itself where I have placed a white arrow in the the pic below:-
Chris.

misnblu wrote: ↑Tue Nov 17, 2020 5:04 am Oh and as far as that oil leak I found out what the cause was for it.
Removing the chain guard and kick stand revealed the original owner NEVER cleaned the crap from the chain lube and it was like it wasn't cleaned since the bike was new.
It took an hour to literally clean the chain guard and the kick stand of all the chain lube garbage off.
I've still got a lot of cleaning to do in that area and will get back on it when I return home in about 4 weeks.

I'm actually glad the mcct's caused all this tear down to occur because I would have never realized how filthy certain parts of the bike were.

Also my last question for everyone as Intook notice that it would appear to be easier to gain access to certain areas of the motor and coolant hoses, would it be necessary to remove the carbs for better access?
There's a plastic liner separating the lower area of the bike that may need to come out for better access to the coolant hoses and looks difficult if the tray is there.
Thanks all.

You will get more access to the engine with the carbs and that plastic shield removed (if you are removing the plastic shield my advice would be to take some photo's first, as it's made up of three separate parts, just in case you don't remember how all three bits go back exactly) although you may not get as much access as you hoped.

Chris.

Thanks Chris for the help.
I'll see about the hose today as I have enough time to do so and although I really didn't want to remove the carbs for better access for the tray removal I guess it's got to be done to do it right.
Thanks again.

misnblu wrote: ↑Tue Nov 17, 2020 4:54 am

These were the tubes that connected to the small vents with the mini filters in them that I'm point to.
On the air box I am sealing that tube off but I wasn't sure what I should do with the port fitting I'm pointing at in the picture so any help on this would be appreciated.

Those need to have a filter attached. They feed the back side of the slide diaphragm allowing it to move.
The reason for the filter is that because of the lift holes in the slide, it is a direct path into the engine.

If left open (not attached to the airbox or the foam sub-filters are missing) you will suck unfiltered air into the carbs.

You can seal them easily and cheaply with a section of foam filter material wrapped over and held on with a hose clamp.
It's not a very elegant solution but you can't see the attachment once the tank is back on.
The little pod filters on the head breather pipes will drop oil occasionally, place them where it can be wiped down and won't contaminate the rear tyre.

8541Hawk wrote: ↑Tue Nov 17, 2020 4:09 pm Those need to have a filter attached. They feed the back side of the slide diaphragm allowing it to move.
The reason for the filter is that because of the lift holes in the slide, it is a direct path into the engine.

If left open (not attached to the airbox or the foam sub-filters are missing) you will suck unfiltered air into the carbs.

Thank you.
So a simple pod filter will do for these to keep out anything that may hurt the engine?
I'll have to get the o.d. in those ports to see what will work.

tony.mon wrote: ↑Tue Nov 17, 2020 5:03 pm You can seal them easily and cheaply with a section of foam filter material wrapped over and held on with a hose clamp.
It's not a very elegant solution but you can't see the attachment once the tank is back on.
The little pod filters on the head breather pipes will drop oil occasionally, place them where it can be wiped down and won't contaminate the rear tyre.

Thanks for the info.
So here's the $64,000 question on this subject.
Would it be feasible to use a small catch can on these?
As a car guy I'm quite familiar with the pcv system and using catch cans venting to air to keep the intake charge clean.
So that's what I was thinking if I tie both cylinder tubes to a tee and then have a catch can vented to air is what I'm wanting to do. Then the catch can can be drained of any crankcase emissions as opposed to having a filter drip oil.
I've got a couple of ideas already on where to mount the can but it's going to be tight.

Thanks again for the help guys, much appreciated.

Yes, a catch can should work, but you'll be able to hear the air pulses.
Please send the 64,000 dollars to:

tony.mon wrote: ↑Tue Nov 17, 2020 6:14 pm Yes, a catch can should work, but you'll be able to hear the air pulses.
Please send the 64,000 dollars to:

Thanks.