Cam chain tensioner - which & where to buy?

[siggy]

Hi All

I need to replace my tensioners, as one went bang the other day.

So, do I need to replace with a Honda replacement or is there a better 'after market' option?

Also, how much have people paid for replacements - I just rang my local Honda dealer and they're asking £79, is this about right?
I thought I'd seen the price quoted at £40 or so on here somewhere!!??

Thanks for any feedback.

Pete

[RQ]

Pete,

Just wondering how you got on with the replacement job, my front one has just gone, and I'm having serious difficulty in getting replacement parts. All I need is the tensioner, but the local dealer is telling me chain, tensioner and blades.

Did you do the job yourself, or garage it ? Came across a mail recently where an owner got Honda to supply parts for free as it is an inherant problem with the VTR's

RQ.

[firestorm_al]

Came across a mail recently where an owner got Honda to supply parts for free as it is an inherant problem with the VTR's

That was most likely at the discresion of the dealer rather than Honda giving a f*** to be honest.

As for doing the work yourself, it really depends on how good you are on the spanners. When my front tensioner went my bike was in the shop for nearly a month while they waited for parts and had new valve guides etc installed.

When it comes to engines I leave it to the professionals.

Al.

[RQ]

Valve guides.............. sounds expensive Al !!

My local dealer is driving me batty, it went bang over a month and a half ago, and to be honest, they still haven't even quoted me for parts. I get the "Oh, we'll ring you back" and never hear anything. It came to crunch stage when the guy in the workshop started spouting 600 - 700 for the job. I have the parts on order, and will think about it when they come in.

I had the misfortune to slide it a few months ago and punch a hole in the clutch cover, and managed that job (fairings, rads, pump, etc) according to previous mentions on this site of CCT replacements it sounds like a handy enough job (famous last words !!) Haynes manual is pretty much useless it seems to bring you so far and then just stop.

Came accross a US site where they petitioned Honda as to why they had done nothing about the problem with the CCT's.......... got nowhere though ! New ones come strengthened though !

RQ.

[Andrew]

700 Quid?, hhhmm surely it would make more sense to buy a second hand engine off ebay or somewhere similar and swap them around, that way you got your broken engine for spares :-)

[Stormtrooper]

im sure del has an engine for sale & that might work out cheaper

[andy c]

has any one tried manual tensioners i was recommended to use one on the old cbr6 never bothered though because it was so old but your all scaring me now

andy

[firestorm_al]

700 Quid?, hhhmm surely it would make more sense to buy a second hand engine off ebay or somewhere similar and swap them around, that way you got your broken engine for spares :-)

If it wasn't for the logistics of getting an engine from the south of England up to Aberdeen I would have definetly taken Del's spare!!

[Andrew]

Im sure it wouldnt cost too much to get it sent by UPS or something like that, how ever much it costs, the price of the engine and delivery will be less than 700 quid.

[delmeekc]

soo many things to say.

I do have a spar engine, has done 7k and is standard apart from being dynamically balanced. fitted for £500, lookin at the thread it would need posting ot ireland, umm.

I have a pair of manual tensioners but juat haven't got the time to fit them at the moment, will probably do it in a month or so. I have no problem fitting them, just need some time.

DEl.

[RQ]

Could work out as expensive shipping it over the water allright !

Del, silly question, difference between manual ones and normal ones is what ????? Is there an advantage in having one rather than the other ?

Found a back - street guy that replaced them on his own machine last month and will do it for me while I wait for a few quid if I bring the parts !

RQ.

[delmeekc]

well the OE one is basically on a spring that's is one way (so they say) and loads the cam chain guide at the time. where as the manual on is basic, it's a nut and bolt, (no spring) so will probably need checking every 1000 miles.

Can you ask you back street geezer how he sets the tension, that's the only concerne I have as the manufacturer suggests checking the play between the cams wheels and that's a lot of work every 1000 miles.

DEl.

[firestorm_al]

I found this procedure on a GSXR site -

Step by step
1. Remove right fairing and prop open tank.

2. Locate oil feeder line on right side of engine block.

3. Remove stock banjo bolt and line, replace with 8 mm 1.25 pitch bolt and lockwasher. Ensure that the bolt is no longer than the threaded piece at the bottom of the banjo bolt. Feel free to put a small amount of HIGH HEAT aluminum silicone on the bolt.

4. Remove rear banjo bolt from actual tensioner assembly. Spring should automatically come out.

5. Remove allen screws and tensioner assembly.

6. Throw tensioner assembly as far away from bike as humanly possible.

7. Either use new stock Suzuki gasket or HIGH HEAT aluminum silicone on bottom of new manual cam tensioner.

8 Back off tensioner and tightening nut prior to installation into motorcycle.

9. Place tensioner into motorcycle and torque allen screws to 7lbs.

10. Tighten tensioner until it makes contact with the cam chain. You will feel definite resist.

11. Crank motorcycle, tighten slowly until knocking "diesel" sounds stops. If your idle slows down your have tightened WAY too far.

12. A VERY small ticking is acceptable, it is far better for the tensioner to be slightly loose instead of too tight.

13 While holding actual adjustment bolt, tighten nut at the base of tensioner.

14. Package your baby back up and enjoy

[delmeekc]

Cheers Al. will try that when I get the time to fit em.

Del.

[WayneM]

Oi Del - you havent got time to post messages here - get back to working on my bike!!!!