VTR1000.ORG

Glad you got a sort of fix in place Minio. From the wiring diagram, the only place where one could switch the sides easily would be the 6P plug going to the switchblock (if you pulled the pins out and swapped the light blue and orange around), or within the switchblock itself.

Sure to be a fake; the side pods on Arais stay fixed and don't lift with the visor.

Have also seen fake Shoei GT-Air helmets on eBay recently.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/shoei-gt-air-h ... SwVzRatWPM

As far as I know, all the 20mm cartridge innards should be swappable, certainly I know the parts in my VFR800, VTR1000 and ST1100 all use a common diameter and thread size for parts like fork caps, damper rods, bottom bolts, sealing washer, seals and bushings, and rebound and compression valve bodie...

I should add, just jumpering from a good battery won't guarantee a start if the "bad" battery is still in the circuit. If the "bad" battery has an internal short (and that is a typical failure mode) this can prevent enough current reaching the solenoid or starter to turn the engi...

My path to modified VTR forks in my VFR was partly to upgrade the brakes (VTR fork lowers play nicely with opposed 4-piston calipers from CBR954s and others), to de-link the brake, and to add some external adjustability for rebound damping, for a minimum cost. I already had modified damper parts and...

I have had VTR forks on my VFR, and I did all the re-springing and re-springing myself using RaceTech parts. I'm happy to share what I found. My recipe involved 0.9kg/mm straight-rate springs, 15mm preload, Gold Valves in both the compression (most important) and rebound (nice to have) position, 5 w...

I'd suggest your first possible cause is a dying battery. You could try using a jumper cable from a car battery and see if the starting improves. If not then I would start looking for corrosion along the path that feeds the starter motor, e.g. the 30A fuse, solenoid and then at the starter itself. D...

My practice is to screw the adjuster in until the head of the nut is flush with the top of the cap, then screw that into the damper rod until the needle just bottoms out (gently), hold the cap in place then back off the adjuster a turn and tighten the locknut. This will mean that when the adjuster s...

I fitted a thin washer onto the stand of my ST1100 for the same reason, worked like a charm.

I agree that any pads should do in the back; I think I have some Goldfren's but I'm not that fussy, I pay a LOT more attention to the front brakes (EBC HH in CBR954 calipers are bliss). My rear brake works perfectly well and will lock up if required, so I'd suggest either contaminated pads (from you...

Given you've already fired the bike into life and she runs, anything more will be preventative maintenance. I would suggest changing all the fluids (brake, clutch, coolant, engine oil) and also taking a look at the tyre sidewalls for any cracking, but otherwise you should be good to go. The only oth...

My dumb approach would be that with gearing changes, the chain runs between the sprockets stays the same, so the added length is just down to the additional runs around the sprockets. And then assume that you only go around half of each sprocket. If you currently have 15/42 then the chain is running...

Interesting test - assuming o or x ring is made from Nitrile - odd then that DID explicitly specify NOT to use kerosene / paraffin with their chains - wonder if they use a different material... http://www.efunda.com/designstandards/oring/oring_chemical.cfm?SM=Buna%2DN%20%28Nitrile%29&SC=none&am...

Same on my 70,000km bike. I put the difference down to chain stretch. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5ZNL8fh68-Vb3u-agSuvcib9lymNuurfqX6vAssb9tQljNF27E09V7cPUbRoeSktKE7mwbTsdF0o2pNdTvTmsm770keqWf_KhCxcbJ7ggkfCGDBrYLyROQqVRlQunOQvN4Yj-8aLivGPRZUPeddt07dI4h7QWDugMKPz9jhSyR83RzgGIefoSNSXDwN2Z8D8f51s...

Maybe check the wheel bearings again. I had a clonk that I could hear/feel when the forks hit the lock stops on my ST1100, which I put down to the olde-timey antidive bracket moving, but turned out to be the wheel bearings. Sensing wheel bearing movement is harder that I thought, easiest was to jack...