engine mount bolts

[Jscobey]

I don't need the special tool just to pull the bolts out and replace the engine right?

[VTRDark]

There's nothing so special about it. It's only a castle nut tool. You could even make one out of an old socket. You will need it... as the castle nut locks off the threaded portion that goes through the frame and locks up against the engine. You can remove the bolts but the engine would be tricky to get out out without retracting the threaded parts and would possibly require the use of prybars etc to bend/flex the frame out and away from the engine. It's just making hard work of things. Get yourself a castle nut tool, they don't have to cost much.

This is what I use. Nice and cheap. Note it has two different sizes (reversible) which you will use on the VTR
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150899605019? ... EBIDX%3AIT

All you need is a small 1/2 inch extension and a torque wrench.

Be careful with the little half moon threaded shapes that stick out once you remove the bolts from the centre.

This may be of some help to you too
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=27362

(:-})

[Jscobey]

I've pulled another vtr engine out of another frame before without any castle nut tool. Is it only the installation you need the tool for?

[AMCQ46]

yes only needed for installation to set the correct spacing & tension between engine and frame

[VTRDark]

You wait until you have to take a hammer and drift to knock out the rear left spacer as it jams tight butt up against the threaded adjuster part and the engine and then have to pry the front frame off and away from the engine. Or even harder getting the frame and spacer back in It can be done but like I said it makes hard work of things. It's far easier to retract the threaded adjusters first if not seized, hence the name adjuster Their there for a reason.

And then once you get the frame and engine released from each other it has one more attempt of making life difficult for you as the threaded adjusters stick out and catch on every bloody thing it can find as you lift the frame off the engine

(:-})

[freeridenick]

With the castle nut tools I can't see how one would hold the adjuster still while torquing up the lock nut. Is Al's marker trick the only option?

[E.Marquez]

With the castle nut tools I can't see how one would hold the adjuster still while torquing up the lock nut. Is Al's marker trick the only option?

The castellated nut IS the lock nut... you hold the bolt though the center of the tool and tighten the lock nut down.

[freeridenick]

With the castle nut tools I can't see how one would hold the adjuster still while torquing up the lock nut. Is Al's marker trick the only option?

The castellated nut IS the lock nut... you hold the bolt though the center of the tool and tighten the lock nut down. engine mount locknut 1.jpg
engine mount locknut 2 .jpg
engine mount locknut 3 .jpg

That bit I get but all the non-honda tools I've seen are a standard square drive which means you can't get anything down the middle to hold the bolt.

[VTRDark]

Your right.....all we can do is to get as close as we can. What I do is try to pre-judge how much extra the centre thread is going to move when tightening up the casletnut so take that into consideration. Mark it as well if you wish. This is one of those jobs that sounds really complicated when reading how to, but get stuck in and it all becomes apparent. It's really not too difficult a job as long as everying is freely moving and nothing siezed. The front mounting bolt that runs through the engine maybe your biggest nigthmare. Plenty of heat where it goes through the engine and a big hammer is friend if that is seized in place.

Be carfeul of the threaded bit that has the little castle turrets (Is that what they are called ) the hollowed out thread that runs through the frame that the castle nut fits over. It has two bit's on the end and they can snap. If that is so tight that you need to get some grips on to loosen then try to grip it from the inside of the frame once the centre bolt is out. It's these that butt up aginst the engine and hold it in position. Centre bolt then runs through and the nut locks it in place on the opposite side and then the castle nut locks it all off on the other. Like I said it all becomes more apparent once you get stuck in.

[AMCQ46]

I can't remember too well how I did it as I am old and senile, but I think I used a stilston or mole grips on the outside of the castle tool so I could still get an Allen key through the square hole in the middle.
That allowed me to get a fairly good torque on the castle nut while holding the spacer in the correct position. Then I marked the centre piece so I could see if it moved and put a torque wrench on the castle tool to finish the setting.

But I think there was one of the adjusters that takes a bigger Allen key, and that wouldn't fit through the 1/2" sq drive, so I just had to mark the adjuster position and compensate for any movement when doing the lock nut

[E.Marquez]

That bit I get but all the non-honda tools I've seen are a standard square drive which means you can't get anything down the middle to hold the bolt.

And thats why you buy the OEM tool or make some

VTR engine nuts.jpg (40.64 KiB) Viewed 4289 times

No need to guess when you can do it as designed correctly.

[sirch345]

That bit I get but all the non-honda tools I've seen are a standard square drive which means you can't get anything down the middle to hold the bolt.

And thats why you buy the OEM tool or make some
VTR engine nuts.jpg


No need to guess when you can do it as designed correctly.

I don't suppose you have any idea what the distance from centre to centre of the two holes is

Chris.

[E.Marquez]

I don't suppose you have any idea what the distance from centre to centre of the two holes is

Chris.

Chris I absolutely do

[E.Marquez]

I don't suppose you have any idea what the distance from centre to centre of the two holes is

Chris.

Chris I absolutely do

Oh, wait, you wanted me to tell you what it is....

66mm center of the socket to center of the 1/2" square drive
Why 66mm?
Because that is what the factory tool is TOOL:Lock nut wrench O7VMA-MBB0100
So I also use the service manual specs for "indicated" TQ to achieve the specified "actual" TQ

[sirch345]

I don't suppose you have any idea what the distance from centre to centre of the two holes is

Chris.

Chris I absolutely do

Oh, wait, you wanted me to tell you what it is....

66mm center of the socket to center of the 1/2" square drive
Why 66mm?
Because that is what the factory tool is TOOL:Lock nut wrench O7VMA-MBB0100
So I also use the service manual specs for "indicated" TQ to achieve the specified "actual" TQ

Eric, thank you very much, you're a star

Chris.