CCT Problem Solved (100% guaranteed)

[Collywog19]

Step dad is making me some bolts similar to what tony wilde did to his CCT.

Anyone want any Making?

I fitted a used, but low mileage CCT to the front of my vtr today, the rattle has gone I should have these bolts by tmoro so then hopefully i can leave all these cct worries behind!

Col

[Collywog19]

My latest

[bikerpiker]

Welcome aboard TempKiwi

This is what I did, I think this is the same idea as Del's (delmeekc)

(1) Set-up engine on compression stroke at TDC aligning all timing marks just the same as if you were replacing the CCT's.

(2) I made up a copy of the Honda locking key, details from the Haynes workshop manual. Using the key turn the worm in the rear CCT clockwise 1/4 of a turn and lock off, then remove CCT. On the front CCT turn the worm clockwise 1/2 a turn and lock off, then remove the CCT.
(The difference of 1/4 turn for the rear and 1/2 a turn for the front CCT is due to the fact that one CCT tightens up and the other slackens off when in use. So basically I've allowed 1/4 of a turn free play, allowing for expanding/shrinking of the different metals etc as they get hot when in use.)

(3) Next I removed the plunger pin so you can remove the plunger head see diagram below.

(4) You then need to work out what length rod you need to fill space 'A' see diagram. I used a piece of aluminium rod only a fraction smaller than the inside diameter of the plunger itself.

(5) Once you have the correct length rod you can then put it all back together.

Following these instructions above, and the ones in the workshop section

Clicky Here - http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8326

showing how to remove and re-fit cct,s , i have done this modification earlier today

I couldn't believe, when i was given the details, the testing, and the hours Sirch345(Chris)has put in,regarding this mod.

Although i was very apprehensive to start with, i was totally fed up readin about cct failures,and decided,after studying the options available,to go down this route

I found it easy enough to do, infact the worst bit was getting the hoses off the underside of the fuel tank I didnt need any new gaskets,the cam-cover gasket is reusable,and the cct gaskets came off whole

Even making the required cct key(dimensions in Haynes manual),only took around 10 mins,although you will need a small bit of 1mm thick steel @2"x1" to make it,...if available at a Honda dealer,i cant see the key being expensive.

Must admit, i was cackin it when the time came to press the starter button , even though i had turned it over by hand a few times and all seemed ok.

It seems an excellent modification ,as the cct is still working using spring tension as Honda intended , but with the small piece of 8mm round bar(the spacer/stopper) placed inside, if the spring was to snap,then the plunger cannot turn backwards on the worm drive so far as to let the camchain slip,causing damage


For the spacer/stopper i used a section of the unthreaded part of an 8mm bolt, as i didnt have any alluminium rod.
I only needed roughly 9mm in length , so the weight difference between using ally rod or steel is nowt, at the end of the day it is only acting as a stopper.

I didn't have a vernier to use, ..instead,..after locking off the cct , and removing it,( tape the key in place), i removed the plunger head, then cut a 8mm bolt with a hacksaw,then filed the ends of the bolt section to make it fit, i just kept filing it till i could get the plunger head back on in place.

I went a test drive, and no nasty noises or rattles , so hopefully i can forget about this cct issue once and for all

For anyone who hasn't seen the internals of a standard cct, here's a pic below, you can see how the small stopper/spacer(not pictured) would go in between the plunger head and the worm-drive.
To do the modification you do not take the cct apart, you only punch out the pin and remove the plunger head.
The wee home-made key is also pictured

[firestarter1977]

collywog.

Have u welded the top nut to the bolt? I wouldnt risk using 2 nuts to lock it off as it will move. If u cant weld it drill it and fit a roll pin mate.

Just my 2 cent

[Collywog19]

Yeh matey it will be welded, still on doing them atm.

Col

[firestarter1977]

nice one fella ! proper job !

[Collywog19]

The first one we did the whole ali body of the cct had a massive crack in it!

so had to abandon that one and get some more done.

Col

[firestarter1977]

hmmm , where did the crack come from ??



mark

[METALDAN]

Well i've got the new cct's with an orange/pinky dot. now do i replace them as per haynes manual e.g take old ones out - put new ones in, or do i do it as per instructions found here? the bike isn't particularly easy to start, farts a bit and backfires on the over run but runs lovely otherwise, could the camchain has slipped a couple of teeth

Help

Please!!!

[Frontslide]

Whats with the dots, noticed mine had dots but not sure what colour

[tony.mon]

Well i've got the new cct's with an orange/pinky dot. now do i replace them as per haynes manual e.g take old ones out - put new ones in, or do i do it as per instructions found here? the bike isn't particularly easy to start, farts a bit and backfires on the over run but runs lovely otherwise, could the camchain has slipped a couple of teeth

Help

Please!!!

Do it as per the posts here.
Haynes is misleading and you can rock it, but the posts here are done by people actually carrying the operation out, with the engine in the frame, and having to ride the thing to work Monday morning, so are a litle more careful....

Unlikely the camchain has slipped, but following the instructions on this site you'll check that anyway.

Backfires on the overrun usually caused by air leaks in the exhaust joins, and they all spit back into the airbox. Not a problem unless the carb rubbers are loose, then the carb stems blow out and just sit loosely on the rubber stunbs, and fuelling goes out of the window.

Dots seem to mean nothing, search the posts on the site and you'll get many opinions.

You can't count on the CCT's lasting for any fixed period, front ones go before the back ones and it may be that the springs are weakened by sitting around in a warehouse wound up to their maximum just so that Mr Honda could put them in a smaller bag....

Funny, really, that, when you consider that they seem to sell a lot of them....

[firestarter1977]

what tony said fella



after a surprise item in a bag delivered from the man above i decided to get them changed asap.


mine have orange dots, dont mean owt to me lol.

i followed the walk through on here and mine is bang on.

i decided after stripping a cct that for me the round bar stop between the worm drive and the plunger head was the best option.




hth

[bikerpiker]

Mine had a kind of Mauve/pink paint dot, you can just see it in the pic above,i also put in a "stopper",and even if i bought new Honda cct's , id poss still do this modification

[firestarter1977]

steve.

My ccts were brand new , i fitted the stop as i didnt see the point in taking them out a few miles later. Job done and dusted.

[METALDAN]

OK NOW I'M PISSED.

Changed the ccts as per instructions found here, timing is spot on manually cranked the motor several revs no problems replaced cam covers airbox tank. now she wont fire up, ran for a little while sweet as a nut, then wouldn't rev, now only runs with choke wide open, fpr about 30 secs then dies. i think this has got to be a breather/fuel pipe wrongly placed but i cannot find it.

Any ideas?