I've had success before with using a spare wheel spindle or swingarm spindle as an extractor, often Honda use the same thread for the centre on the flywheel as well, and all you need to do is remove the securing bolt on the end, then screw in the spindle, and it will remove it form the keyed tapered end of the crank.
But the threads aren't the same on Storms, and so I had to try a little harder.
The first problem is holding the rotor still so that you can undo the centre bolt, which retains it onto the crank end.
The crank will just turn, and if you don't have a rattle gun it's tight enough that you won't be able to remove it.
The usual recommended method is to jam the rear brake on, or otherwise hold the output sprocket still, and put it in gear.
In my opinion this method will put a lot of strain on the transmission, and I am not happy with doing that- if it damages the transmission the engine needs to come out for repair, quite a big job.
So I devised a cheap and cheerful clamp to hold the rotor still.
It consist of an old spare (130mm?) diameter can clamp, with a length of studding, heavy gauge washers and two nuts:
Using studding and two nuts instead of a bolt means that you can brace the rotor in either direction without having to undo it and turn it over.
Undo the connector on the lead(in the plastic sheath by the battery) which comes from the alternator, and pull it free. Then remove the outer casing, by undoing the bolts (8mm heads) around the casing, leaving the two inspection covers in situ.
Fit the clamp (which usefully has a rubber insert to avoid damage to the rotor) and tighten.
Now, by jamming a length of tube (I used a socket set extension, with a socket on the end) on the end of the thread, you can hold the rotor still.
You need to think about which direction the rotor will try to turn, and I found that in one direction the tube usefully jams against the footrest casting, and in the other it jams against the centre engine mount/frame bolt, which protrudes out just behind the LH rad, and is plenty solid enough.
So with the rotor clamped you can now undo the 14mm centre bolt.
Next you need to remove the rotor itself.
You will see that the centre hole in the rotor is threaded; this is M22 x 1.5 pitch, a finer option than a normal M22 thread.
But any bolt with that thread can now be screwed in, and the rotor will be pulled off of the end of the crank.
I looked long and hard to find a bolt, then discovered that some trucks, including Iveco and MAN. use this size bolts to hold the wheels on.
So if you go to an Iveco dealer, and ask for part number P 10007189041, a 23121 wheel pin, it will do the job nicely.
It looks like this:
and the head of the bolt looks like this, so it's easy to get a spanner on it- (sorry, I didn't get the AF measurement, as I used an adjustable):
The end of the bolt isn't well finished, and so you will need to clean it to a flat face, slightly domed- I just dressed it on a grinder, but it would probably file OK.
Anyway, screwing the bolt in removes the rotor.
Re-installation is, of course, a reverse operation, using a torque wrench if you wish.
The bolt and rotor are quite tightly secured, and so you may need an extension handle or breaker bar to get enough pressure.
Oh, the best bit?
The bolt cost £2.90, including VAT- and I already had the clamp laying around....
