stalls when cold

[marty b]

hi does anyone have any ideas as to why all of a sudden my bikes stalling before its warmed up , it starts ok but after about 20 seconds stalls, ,rides ok untill i stop then stalls , its fine when up to temp . please help im on a very tight budget as ive not long lost my job......cheers

[Wicky]

Up the idle a notch or two?

[marty b]

dont wana sound dumb ow du do that

[Steve6088]

I little black finger screw on the right hand side of the carbs. It is kind of above and the coolant tank. Mine did that too until I turned the tickover up

[Phimosis]

stand on the footbrake side reach under the tank and you will feel a fat knob so to speak mine is grey coloured, give it a quarter turn clockwise and give it a rev till it ticks over at about 1300/1400 in winter I get carb icing and a fast idle is the only way to keep it going when the temp is low.....happy knobbing

[Phimosis]

oh, handle the knob with your left hand as it is impossible to do with your right....

[Steve6088]

'carb icing'. That will explain why I have recently had to turn mine up again.

[Phimosis]

Rode my bike when it was -11 last year had to set the tickover to 2000 to stop it stalling.........

[Steve6088]

I'll bare that in mind. I had a courtesy bike with fuel injection when it was that cold last year so didn't have that bother.

[marty b]

cheers people had a good play with me knob and it all cum together ..... worked a treat thanks

[dirtyharry]

i have a question about my bike.
it starts first time, however ive noticed that unless i warm up the bike to about 45-55 degrees celcius, than it looks like it will stall/die as the idle
starts dropping to 1000,900rpm. and couple of times it has stalled.
once the bike is warmed up (past 60 degrees) than everything is fine, idles at 1200-1300 when fully warmed up.
i presume its quite normal for these big v twins to have a bad idle/stalling when its still cold? or could there be something wrong?
bike has only 11,000km (all original, caby's synced, full service done - besides valve adjustment).

[tony.mon]

The choke should stay pulled out, and increase idle speed as well as richening the mixture.

If it's not staying out, pull back the rubber boot behind the knob, and (gently- it's plastic) tighten it until it grips the choke knob stem just enough to hold it in place.
Remember to close it properly after a few hundred yards or two/three minutes idling.

It doesn't close itself, when working correctly.
Lots of engines' chokes do, automatically when the engine's warm, but not these.

[Flatline]

Like Martyb you need to play around with your knob m8

Worked for him

[dirtyharry]

yeah i dont want to play around with my knob too much i usualy prefer it to be serviced externally.
....plus manual says that the choke should only be used for 30 seconds

[tony.mon]

yeah i dont want to play around with my knob too much i usualy prefer it to be serviced externally.
....plus manual says that the choke should only be used for 30 seconds

Depends on how cold it is, and whether you have jets/cans/air filter differences form standard.

Funny thing with these bikes, some seem to need choke, some don't.
Even on really cold days mine will start form cold with no choke, if I crank it for a few seconds.

I certainly have to get the choke in as soon as it's caught, otherwise it'll flood.
But according to the dyno, it's damn near spot on stoichiometric ratio all the way through.