About 10 to 15 minutes to remove fairing (see the downloadable PDF Service manual in workshop knowledgebase section if you haven't got the Haynes manual)
The fiddly bit are two plastic screws hidden round the inside front - Plus put a towel on the front mudguard to rest the fairing on so you can disconnect the front running light wiring.
Front fork removal and servicing in the manual - Make sure you've got the tools to undo the bottom hex bolts (long 6mm hex socket) ratchet cargo strap to compress forks to undo bolt and separate them in vice, and for new seals a seal driver (or make one yourself). Do one leg at a time so you don't mix up parts.
Fairing is simple.
1. find and remove the trim clips (small round black fasteners) on the inside lower edges of each side of the front of the fairing, they're just below the rads. Pull the centres out, and the rest will then pull out. If you butcher them Halfords sells a pack of ten for a few pounds, don't buy honda ones.
2. Place a rag/towel on the front mudguard, cover the whole top surface.
3. Undo the four fasteners you can see, two on each side, with an allen key.
4. Slip a piece of rag over the sharp-edged top brackets, between the fairing and the bracket, which stays attached to the frame. This prevents paint being chipped off as you remove the fairing.
5. Reach in and pull off the headlight electrical connector from the bulb.
Standing in front of the bike, grip both sides of the fairing and pull them gently apart as you pull the fairing towards you. The sides will clear the top brackets.
as soon as you have cleared the top brackets, stop pulling it forward and rest it onto the top of the mudguard. That's what that rag was for!
6. Now you can see the connector for the sidelight, so reach in and disconnect this. It's a bit fiddly.
7. Now you can continue to pull the fairing off towards the front until it's off.
Once you've done it a few times it's easy, but you may find it easier to ask a friend/other half to help the first time.
To repaint bracket, unbolt clocks, leave everything connected and just paint round the bracket. No need to paint anything more than the visible bits, really.
Head bearings?
Taper rollers rather than ball bearings, any on Ebay will do.
But don't torque them up to the settings recommended for ball bearings, just finger tight is fine.
There are threads in Workshop for a "how to".
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.