How do I set up the carbs?

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:16 pm

Hi everyone.

As far as I know, the only mod to the fueling system on my '99 Firestorm is a set of Fuel "silencers". Basically, I want to improve the ride as it's a bit "lumpy" at low cruising speeds and backfires (I'm not sure if this is the correct term) considerably when slowing down (doesn't do it when the clutch is in and it's not as bad with baffles, but who the hell wants baffles in a Firestorm!?). Yesterday I got bored so I decided to start taking things apart to see what's what. While I have the tank and airbox off I'm going to do some basic maintenance - clean stuff, change spark plugs, carb balance, CCT's and possibly replace the air filter (I'll probably just use an OEM part, not K&N). I'm also going to remove the carbs and make sure everything is tip-top in there too. Is there a widely accepted carb setup that is appropriate for a (nearly) standard Firestorm? Bear in mind that I'm really just a weekend warrior and don't ride very fast all the time, so if it's possible, I don't want to spend a fortune.

Cheers, Ben.

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:23 pm

http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/te ... -up-24769/

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 2:25 pm

Excellent! Thanks very much.

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:38 pm

Has anyone here followed the above guide?

I just need some clarification on a couple of things.

If I understand correctly, I need to raise the needles 0.04'' (1.016mm) above stock setting, then remove the stock washer on the front carb needle (leaving the new washer in place) so that it is slightly lower than the rear. What size washer will I need to buy? Folks on the "Superhawk" forums say M4 washers work well, but how thick are they? I figured I'd just buy these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150583266524? ... 1778wt_939 What do you guys think? Would it be better to go to B&Q and measure some washers with Vernier calipers?

Secondly, I have this Loctite liquid gasket http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255217 . Would it work for sealing up one of the slide holes or do I need to use something like Araldite? Also, should I smooth down the resin once it has hardened?

Thanks,

Ben.

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:32 pm

Another good read for you http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=14214

(:-})

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:55 pm

Is there a widely accepted carb setup that is appropriate for a (nearly) standard Firestorm?

Sorry did not mean to come across so flippantly in my last post

Reading the Carb Tuning Guide (thanks to Mr Mon) has helped me to understand a lot about the tuning of these bikes. You may have to read it a few times for it to sink in. It's technical but written in a way we can understand.

but who the hell wants baffles in a Firestorm!?).

The MOT man

(I'll probably just use an OEM part, not K&N

I think that's is a good idea unless you have a Dynokit/Factory pro kit set up.

Basically, I want to improve the ride as it's a bit "lumpy" at low cruising speeds and backfires

A bit of coughing and spluttering in there as well then. Sounds like you have similar problems to mine, except I have the K&N. I think your standard filter may even things out for you. It's worth giving it a go before your start stripping all the carbs down. See how it effects thing's.

maintenance - clean stuff, change spark plugs, carb balance, CCT's

I Like it.

Where a about's are you based benh89?

Have Fun

(:-})

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Wed Apr 11, 2012 8:22 am

@cybercarl, I never thought your response was flippant, and that link is a good read - definitely the way to go if you want to extract the best performance. I'm just too lazy to follow that guide and I also want to ensure my bike is rideable throughout the summer, so I think I'll keep the fueling mods to a minimum.

My main concern is ensuring the washers for the needles are the correct thickness and type (material and internal diameter). Everything else I understand.

I live near Redruth in Pastyland.

Cheers

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:06 pm

If you're not sure about washer thickness, just go to a dealer with a dyno and buy some there.
They'll have the right sort of thing.

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:48 pm

tony.mon wrote:If you're not sure about washer thickness, just go to a dealer with a dyno and buy some there.
They'll have the right sort of thing.

I managed to find some steel M3 washers at Screwfix. They fit nicely and are a shade over 0.5mm thick. Going by the Superhawk forums' guide, I removed the stock washer from they front needle and replaced it with two new washers. For the rear carb needle, I left the stock washer in place and added two new ones. Also, some muppet had swapped the needles. How much would this have impacted performance? Just need to get some float bowl gaskets before I re-assemble everything.

One thing I discovered when I took the carbs apart was that #48 pilots had already been installed. As I was reading through the Haynes manual, I discovered that this is the factory setup for UK Firestorms [face palm]. Looks like I won't need those new ones after all. That got me thinking about the reccommendation to shim the needles. The US Superhawk has different needles so should I follow the same guide given that I have a UK 'Storm?

What about the pilot screw setting? Before I changed them, they were both set at 1.25 turns out. I have now set the front to 2.25 and rear to 2.5 turns out. This seems like a huge change. Does anyone here use such a setup?

Does anyone know where I can buy petrol resistant gasket goo (apart from the internet)? Some forums reccommend Blue Hylomar. Anyone used it?

Cheers guys.

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 11:00 pm

Halfords

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:43 am

benh89 wrote:. Also, some muppet had swapped the needles.

Cheers guys.

Ah, you have the carbs on the wrong way round.

not.

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:48 am

tony.mon wrote:
benh89 wrote:. Also, some muppet had swapped the needles.

Cheers guys.
Ah, you have the carbs on the wrong way round.

not.

For a moment, I didn't see the "not" and almost believed you

Also, a little bit of steam ejected from my ears.

Got the carbs back on my bike, installed hoses for my Carbtune, but wanted to install my new manual CCT's (courtesy of RiderOnAStorm) before firing it up. Now I have a f*****g problem... I rounded the alternator cover cap

(the inspection hole cap is fine though) Is there a good reason that it needed to be made of such a soft metal, or has someone before me just tightened the s**t out of it? The allen wrench I was using was the 10mm end of the spark plug removal tool; It seemed like a good fit. Where do I go from here? Looks like I'll have to do the job with the alternator cover off completely. Would it work if I turn the crank with the cam covers off and judge the cam position by eye? Would I be able to accurately determine TDC on compression without lining up the index marks on the flywheel with the index mark on the alternator cover?

Ah, it was all going so well...

Post by **Jazzscot** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 3:44 pm

There was a guy on here did the very same thing as you and he set the bike in 6th gear and rotated the engine by using the wheel. A risky proposition imho but doable.

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 3:57 pm

Drift the inspection cap out

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 1&start=15

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18711

scott02464 · Post by **scott02464** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:48 pm

benh89 wrote:Hi everyone.
Basically, I want to improve the ride as it's a bit "lumpy" at low cruising speeds and backfires (I'm not sure if this is the correct term) considerably when slowing down (doesn't do it when the clutch is in and it's not as bad with baffles, but who the hell wants baffles in a Firestorm!?). I don't want to spend a fortune.

Cheers, Ben.

Hi Ben, I had similar symptoms to you (running rough, hard to start, mine cut out quite regular too at tick over aka traffic ligts!)

I recently balanced my carbs and has totally cleared up the cutting out and rough running!

Although I still do get a nice deep burbling/popping noise on the over run (no baffles in too)

Scott

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