Worth "upgrading" the clutch line to stainless?

Murv · Post by **Murv** » Wed May 23, 2012 10:06 am

Just about to hit the "buy" button on some new Hel brake lines, is it worth doing the clutch too?

EDIT: Done some googling, as I suspected, seems it's only a cosmetic improvement so I'll give that a miss and just change the fluid

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Wed May 23, 2012 11:24 am

Not just cosmetic upgrade it's also preventive maintenance as the rubber clutch line will weaken and split in time where as a braided one will not

Murv · Post by **Murv** » Wed May 23, 2012 11:34 am

Fair enough, I've just gone with brake lines for now though, it's free postage from HEL so it's no big deal to get the clutch line later on. I'll see how I get on with doing the brakes first

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Wed May 23, 2012 11:45 am

lloydiecbr wrote:Not just cosmetic upgrade it's also preventive maintenance as the rubber clutch line will weaken and split in time where as a braided one will not

Sorry to disagree, Lloydie, but it it unlikely to degrade as bake lines do.
Brake lines degrade because they're constantly being put under short periods of very high pressure; which as the fluid can't compress tries to stretch the lines lengthwise, but also 9and this is where the damage occurs over time) increasing its diameter.
As the rubber compounds degrade with time, age (and UV, possibly, as well) they become less flexible and eventually cracks and perishing occurs.

With the clutch line, however, because the systems isn't under anywhere near as much pressure the line will last a lot longer.
The clutch plate only exerts enough pressure to move the clutch springs and push the pressure plate into disengagement, which is nowhere near the same resistive force as that exerted by brake pads trying to go through discs.
So the line pressure is a great deal less, therefore much less hose diameter expansion.

Short of crash damage or line chafing, there is no advantage at all in my opinion.

Hasn't stopped me fitting a HEL line on mine, though! And matches the brake side.

So worth it? No.
But when you fit it you will have to change the fluid, so it'll probably feel smoother.

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Wed May 23, 2012 11:59 am

i stand corrected

i to have fitted one to match the brakes

only as i got it cheep

agentpineapple · Post by **agentpineapple** » Wed May 23, 2012 11:59 am

Murv wrote:Fair enough, I've just gone with brake lines for now though, it's free postage from HEL so it's no big deal to get the clutch line later on. I'll see how I get on with doing the brakes first

i just bought a rear brake line from hel and the postage was Â£4 ffs, so i'd love to know how yours was free, maybe you bought a kit with several lines so they can offer you free postage.

fireballxl5 · Post by **fireballxl5** » Wed May 23, 2012 12:48 pm

Go the hole hog why not ? I have also fitted HEL lines to my storm, full set, 2 single lines on the front,rear and the clutch as well, have fun fitting the clutch line

might be best to remove the left fairing, went for the transparent yellow covering on the lines,very tasteful, If you've got a yellow one don't be shy.

Murv · Post by **Murv** » Wed May 23, 2012 1:13 pm

Cheers all

BSM, I don't know why my postage was free (although I wouldn't have quibbled at 4 quid ;) ) but I did order two front brake lines plus the rear which came to 80-odd quid, maybe it was free psotage above a certain amount?

oldbikeman · Post by **oldbikeman** » Fri May 25, 2012 9:42 pm

Pulling the clutch push rod,clean and lubing it with motor oil and cleaning the release piston makes a nice difference .The push rod gets a bit starved of oil and wears against the input shaft .The standard pipe should be good indefinitely but matching ones look better.

MacV2 · Post by **MacV2** » Sun May 27, 2012 10:46 am

fireballxl5 wrote:Go the hole hog why not ? I have also fitted HEL lines to my storm, full set, 2 single lines on the front,rear and the clutch as well, have fun fitting the clutch line might be best to remove the left fairing, went for the transparent yellow covering on the lines,very tasteful, If you've got a yellow one don't be shy.

Absolutly no need to remove fairing!

Undo the bottom banjo, pump the fluid out, tape the lever end of the new line to the bottom of the old line, undo the banjo at the top & pull it through.

Needs a bit of a wiggle due to the solid section of the standard line but it's possible, IIRC there are some clamps to undo along the way as well.

Remove the tape throw the old line away, refit banjos, use a syringe to fill the line from the bottom bleed through.

Did mine in less than 20 min's. Job done Simples.

PS BTW How can they be transparent & yellow? Sounds like it looks like old ageing plastic from a smokers house! Yellow lines are not tasteful,

Murvs unfortunately got a silver one, I'd go with black lines on that.

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Mon May 28, 2012 3:26 pm

+1, did mine without removing fairing.
Just watch the old fluid splashing about, as Mac has said.

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