HELP!!!!!!....MkII

[darrenmartin]

Would i be rite in thinking that the exhaust stud's have a reverse thread iv orderd that freeze spray from another suppier at only £7 per can (400ml) tnx guys

[AMCQ46]

no, the studs are normal thread - anti clock to undo

[BigVeeGrin]

Would i be rite in thinking that the exhaust stud's have a reverse thread iv orderd that freeze spray from another suppier at only £7 per can (400ml) tnx guys

nope - hope that works for you Darren (or Martin). I heated, froze, penetrating oiled and whacked with a club hammer and nothing budged! Mine were in this condition -





don't forget to remove the old copper gasket - it wont look like copper but it's there

[gafr]

use a nut splitter before you snap the studs. a 10mm splitter will do the job.available at any tool shop.

[darrenmartin]

tnx for the help guys just one thing... what's a nut splitter? iv never seen one

[AMCQ46]

tnx for the help guys just one thing... what's a nut splitter? iv never seen one

tell your Mrs you have been shagging her sister, and you will then know what a nut splitter is

[Jazzscot]

Good wee read too
http://www.classic-car-magazine.co.uk/a ... bolts.html

[turbo_billy]

tnx for the help guys just one thing... what's a nut splitter? iv never seen one

tell your Mrs you have been shagging her sister, and you will then know what a nut splitter is

Priceless

[darrenmartin]

now i know what a nut splitter is...............the nut came away when the stud broke..im left with about 2-3mm of thread then about 5mm of the smooth centre section of the stud .......any ideas any1 oh and both copper gasgets are out.

[darrenmartin]

Big Vee Grin your last photo looks very similar to the condition of what iv got to deal with.

[rob...]

the nut came away when the stud broke..im left with about 2-3mm of thread then about 5mm of the smooth centre section of the stud

ooops!! hopefully it's the front pot so at least you can get at it to drill it out.

[BigVeeGrin]

Big Vee Grin your last photo looks very similar to the condition of what iv got to deal with.

just to reiterate my process was:

- penetrating oil as best you can for a few days. Whack and try to turn with molegrips on filed flat surface, then
- blow torch on the engine block/stud, thinking goes differential heating of alloy and steel will break corrosion, whack etc. Didn't work, then
- freeze stuff, like above, whack etc. no luck
- wheeled it to a bloke up the road who welded a nut on a piece of steel onto the nut. Worked. Cost me £25 and I lost weeks trying to do it myself (garage got v cold as well which put me off)

good luck

[VTRDark]

If it was me I would squirt loads of that fluid in there (over a few days if poss) let it soak right in and do it's job. Then mole grips, nut splitter or whatever tool you think best for getting a good clamp on the few mm you have protruding. You have one chance, don't let the tool start slipping, clamp on tight. You never no you might just get lucky.
If that don't work and the tool has slipped making the remains of the stud worse then you could go for the slot in the head and try a screwdriver, but TBH if the grip technique don't work, I doubt a screwdriver will. So it's as Rob says it's time to get the drill out. Start with a small drill bit working your way up the scale. Sometimes it's better to use a slow speed on a drill rather than fast so play with the speed to see which works best. If you are careful you will be able to save the thread, just don't use too big a drill bit and make sure you start as centre as possible, maybe centre punch first.

Hope that helps

Are you gonna share the link for that spray.

tell your Mrs you have been shagging her sister, and you will then know what a nut splitter is

Brilliant.

Have fun.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

I've found that mole grips slip, making the problem worse.
The stud locks in place due to a build-up of corrosion around the point at which the stud enters the head, so the dremel removal idea works well.
Sprays really don't penetrate into the thread, in my experience- if you get it out have a look at where the spray has reached- it won't have gone through to the thread in the head.
Welding a nut on will work if you weld it securely enough, and get a spanner on the nut while it's still hot.

Another option is to file two flats onto the stud before you get a tool onto it. As long as there's enough showing, and you can file nice and square, this gives better traction for whatever you can clamp onto it.
I wonder if a nut splitter could be persuaded to clamp on? This will give a lot better grip than moley's.

But access is a problem, whichever head it is.
If you still have a bit of stud protruding, and it's the rear head, you might be better off removing the head.
Hear me out on this one.....

Trying to drill a flush stud out is difficult, as you'll have to drill freehand, at an awkward angle, with all sorts of other parts in the way. The drill bit would much rather drill into soft aluminium than steel stud, so unless you're spot on with the angle and get it centred it'll run off, possibly leaving bits of stud still in place, which will make it even harder to drill oversize and re-tap.
So the best solution is to remove the stud, and the most effective way I've found to do that is when the head has to come off anyway- typically when a cct has failed and you need to replace valves in any case- and in those cases I've found that removing the head, placing the protruding part of the stud in a vice and simply revolving the head in your hands has shifted the stud easily every time.
The stud won't slip when held in vice jaws.

And then all you need to do is fit a new cylinder head gasket refit and retime the cam chain, and you might as well check valve clearance shims while you're there looking at them. 1/2 day for the rear cylinder, 1 day for the front as it's fiddlier.

Now all of this sounds like a lot of work, but compared to drilling it out with the chances of that going wrong, might be easier in the long run. At least you'll know exactly what work needs doing, and have a very good chance that nothing else will go wrong.

I'll add that the rear head is infinitely simpler to get off and back on again than the front one, as lots less needs to be taken off to get to it.

Last tip, for everyone to consider, is to use copperslip liberally on the nut and stud every time you disturb them, and to consider re-doing it as an annual service item.....(of course if you snap one trying to undo it so that you can copperslip it and do it up again, you're back at square one... )

[tony.mon]

I feel that the design of the exhaust clamp studs and nuts is not the best soltion, and so I've been considering alternatives. For those of us that remove the pipes fairly often, this sort of fixing might be a better alternative:
http://www.fixtureworks.net/Home/TechSh ... Path=7|4|3

What do you think?