riding then electrics die

[seb421]

DDEEEERRRR... I know no pain no gain, 1 prob I have, and thats why I asked about the clocks, is that I have a lower fairing thats attached to the front, I also have mirror extenders which are a b8stard to get back on so its a bit more than a few bolt's and a couple of minutes defo NOT lazy

Its still only a few mins of a job, I have a lower fairing just leave the lower fairing on and just undo the bolt at the mount it shares with the upper fairings

[tony.mon]

I didn't say you were lazy; sometimes it's easier to put the time in taking things off to give you an easier job later.

Example:
removing tank, airbox, carbs and plastic undertray beneath carbs before trying to check front valve clearances.

Although it takes 20 mins to take these items off and then the same to put them back on again, it makes checking clearances really simple.
Otherwise you're working in the dark like a gynaecologist, arms above your head, trying to decide which bit you're actually measuring., and you can't see how much grit and dirt you're knocking off the frame around the oil cooler mounting which falls into the engine.
The job can be done without taking all of the parts off, but in my experience it takes more than 2 x 20 mins longer.


In this case, with an electrical fault, the more you can see the easier it will be.

But it's up to you, if you find a wire hanging off the back of the clocks you've sussed it straight away.


Lower fairing's only four bolts, surely?

[edds11]

[VTRDark]

But you have still not determined whether the problem is with the bike or the alarm. So why not disable the alarm and see if the problem is still there. It's not difficult if you have the user manual and the pin code for the alarm.
A lot less work than stripping the bike down and it will tell you whether it's the alarm circuit or not.

(:-})

[edds11]

Not the alarm, just had it all apart and disconnected and no difference, apart from obviously the fob wont start it

[VTRDark]

Well at least that can be ruled out now then. Mmm time to get the thinking cap on.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

One more thought, how likely is it that the RH handlebar switches are full of water?

Shorting out the kill switch wiring would give the symptoms you describe.

Put a voltmeter across the terminal of the battery, with the ignition on but no lights there should be a minimal current draw form the battery, if voltage drops more than .5 volt you should be able to isolate the fault by unplugging connections one at a time.

[edds11]

thats the main problem tony, I put on the ignition and there is nothing, nothing at all, asthough I have not put the keys in

[edds11]

what tests can be done to the R/R with a meter, not the wireing on the bike that all checks out fine, its just that one of the stator wires (1 of 3) goes to ground ,

[VTRDark]

There's a whole section here on RR checks http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8831 with pdf flow chart of checks that can be made. It may be of use to you.

just pulled this from the workshop manual:
Check for continuity between each wire terminal of the alternator side connector and ground. There should be no continuity.

Replace the alternator stator if resistance is out of specification. Or if any wire has continuity to ground.

So you maybe on to something there.

(:-})

[edds11]

yes cheers carl, I have those aswell but they refer to the conector going back to the stator, what I would like is a similar set of instructions for the plug actualy on the R/R....would be very helpfull

[AMCQ46]

i would still say if the alarm fob can get it all to repower, then it has to be a part of the circuit that is a parallel path between the Honda wiring and the Alarm wiring. so things like the battery and the R/R and the Alternator and the coils are all outside that path, they are single path and if failing they would not repower on the alarm fob.

your problem has to be in a section of the wiring that the Alarm is capable of bypassing, so you need to understand where the alarm taps in between the battery and the powered ignition feed.

hope that makes sense as I wrote it in a rush

[edds11]

I hear you, and understand, the only thing I can say is that that path is fine - without giving to much away -.

[Wicky]

Is it an alarm & immobiliser?

[tony.mon]

Is it an alarm & immobiliser?

All alarms have an immobiliser function.
As soon as they go wrong they make the bike unrideable.