Fitting JE Piston Kit and Sorting Crank

[seb421]

Can any please tell me what's required when fitting piston Kit,

obviously the pistons and rings, but what gaskets will i need to replace and anything else I'm going to need.


Also what gaskets / parts will i require to replace crank bearings

Going to start stripping that original engine that's now down the other side of the house behind a shed

Want to fix the crank knock and fit the high comp pistons

Anything else i should be doing while I'm at it?


Thanks

[VTRDark]

Have a read through this thread http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/mo ... e-i-17262/ I read the whole 20 pages the other night and found it a very interesting read. Lots of good pics supplied as well.

(:-})

[seb421]

Have a read through this thread http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/mo ... e-i-17262/ I read the whole 20 pages the other night and found it a very interesting read. Lots of good pics supplied as well.

(:-})

bloody hell mate your up as late as me, cheers bud ill get onto it and have a read.

[VTRDark]

Sorry Seb that was a bit short, chucking you a link.

If your just doing the pistons and big end's.

Also what gaskets / parts will i require to replace crank bearings

Head gaskets are the only gaskets you will need and possibly a sump gasket. Obviously new main bearings (big end/crank) OM Piston rings, New con rod bolts. And don't forget tools. Piston ring compressor, torque wrench.

But why not do the whole engine, cams as well. Or at least strip the head down, clean/replace valves, valve stem oil seals etc etc.

It's something I would like to do one day strip everything down port and polish, clean and replace. I'm not sure I want to go down the high comp route though, as it means running high octane fuel all the time and then there's the extra heat generated, so there a knock on effect. I'm thinking maybe just get a re-bore and oversize pistons.

(:-})

[seb421]

No worries I got through all 19 pages took me about two hours mind.
Re the heat mate it touched on that the je pistons have some special coating to elivate this if I remember correctly, was a long read that, went well off topic all over the place and took the guy a prison sentence to complete. Would drive me nuts pissing about like that.


Sent from the Bat Cave via Cup and String

[VTRDark]

The special coating I believe helps and by the sounds of it with regards to the skirt an optional extra worth considering. It took the guy a lifetime but I think it's a good incite to it all that thread. You wouldn't have to go half as far as he did, I mean that really was a total strip down and rebuild.

For you you could just remove the heads and sump. Depending on the tolerances and the state of the cylinder walls, maybe give them a light hone your self with a honing tool and electric drill on a drill press. Stick new pistons and rings in. Bearings and new con rod bolts could be done from underneath/sump.

While the heads are off it's worth removing the valves and giving the heads a light port and polish even if it's just a de-coke of all the carbon build up. I would even consider have the head skimmed slightly, which is not expensive. At the same time get the machine shop to slot the OM cam sprockets. Which is handy even if it's just to allow minor adjustment/tweaks to allow for possible cam chain wear, where it's less than a tooth of stretch.

Then depending on funds and the condition replace the exhaust valves. re-grind the valves in with some valve grinding paste. New oil seals and maybe, again according to tolerances, replace springs. Put the OM cams back in and away you go. I'm not sure you would have to degree the cams if putting OM cams back in as there is not as much lift as the aftermarkets. Then at a later date if you want some different cams then the slots are already in place on the cam sprockets.

Also the perfect opportunity to give the outside casings a clean and coat of paint.

One day I will be getting hold of an old engine/parts (ebay ) and doing a rebuild. I think I will just go down the OM oversize route though as I don't fancy using the more expensive fuel all the time. Also as time goes on and fuel reserves go down, they will add more ethanol to it. I might also swap the inlet cams with exhaust and degree them in. The degreeing is going to be a big learning curve for me.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

Well, for what it's worth when getting that far into an engine, unless you really enjoy taking engines in and out, is to do everything while you're there.
That means big ends and mains on these, shell sizes are easy, Haynes has it right for once, so follow that.

New rings, gap them properly, but you might well find that the bores have worn to a point where the end gaps are too large- then it's too late to rebore it, as you've already bought standard piston sizes and ring sizes.....
So measure the bores carefully before ordering pistons, and if you need high comp pistons, be aware that JE only sell oversize ones in fours, not the two you'll need, so find a friend, or build two engines.....

JE's come with standard Honda rings, but they send out their own circlips.

Have a good look at the oil pump; any marks at all and I'd replace the rotor, it's cheap in comparison to a seized engine.

If the valve seats are worn to more than 3mm wide, I'd suggest taking them to a decent engine builder and having the seats re-cut, maybe to a 5 angle racing seat, but that's probably overkill for one of these lumps.
I've never needed to replace a valve, in or ex, so just check for wear marks and measure to make sure the guides are still good.
They're quite simple to drift out and fit new ones if needed, and cheaper than new valves. It's the guides that wear, usually, in any case.

Although Haynes tells you to replace all of the o ring seals in the crankcase joins, I wouldn't bother unless they're split. They're captive, can't move, and can't go anywhere. What's to wear?

Buy a good quality socket for the big end bolt heads; and you'll need a decent torque spanner.
Oh, and a new clutch centre nut is needed.

Lastly, make sure that you only apply jointing compound in the recommended spots on the crankcase halves when reassembling, as you'll block oilways otherwise.


Take it easy, have fun, check everything twice.