rear wheel bearings.

[Diabolus]

The storm got an advisory for slight play in the rear wheel bearings,

• what exactly needs replacing?
  is there a full kit available?
  e-bay brings up 2 bearings im thinking i need 1 for the sprocket carrier too ?
  do I need any special tools to remove or fit?

any info/tips are much appreciated

[MacV2]

The storm got an advisory for slight play in the rear wheel bearings,

• what exactly needs replacing?
  is there a full kit available?
  e-bay brings up 2 bearings im thinking i need 1 for the sprocket carrier too ?
  do I need any special tools to remove or fit?

any info/tips are much appreciated

Large hammer & a drift oh & a couple of bits of 2x 2 timber, fags & lots of tea.....Elastoplast......

There are two barrings in the wheel itself & one in the sprocket carrier. Might as well do all three while your at it, apart from a bit extra dosh & time it can't hurt can it...Unless you smack your thumb with the hammer!

Lay wheel on two bits of timber & an old towel to stop scratching your wheel ( also useful for soaking up blood of course.) & use the drift to carefully knock the bearing out from the opposite side, take your time & lightly tap opposite sides, like a clock face, 12 o/c -6 o/c -3 o/c -9 o/c so that it comes out square. Keep the old bearings you can use them to act as a drift to get the new ones back in.

Dave Silvers or Wemoto will flog you the barrings & are normally quite quick if they have them in stock, I find it best to phone them & speak to someone rather than ordering online. Also compare the prices between the two as they do vary, remember the P&P as well.

If you are not in a hurry, take the old ones out & find a local Bearing Factors, take the old ones in & get them to match them, they will be cheaper than OEM parts for essentially the same thing.

When yo get the bearings pop them in the freezer for 24 hrs or longer, they will contract a bit for making it easier when your fitting them.
Whack em in grease them up, bolt it all up & when your thumb has stopped throbbing & the swelling has gone down & you can get your gloves back on take it for a blat!

Mac

[Diabolus]

Thanks that clears that up then just what i wanted i owe you a

[Diabolus]

The one that should be in the sprocket carrier has come out and stuck to the wheel is this a problem ?

[MacV2]

The one that should be in the sprocket carrier has come out and stuck to the wheel is this a problem ?

IIRC the sprocket carrier bearing is bigger than the wheel bearings, without seeing it I really couldn't comment.....

Sounds completely wrong however, can you post a pic ?

Break out the hammer & start twatting it !!

[sirch345]

I agree with Mac on the sprocket carrier bearing a photo or two would be helpful. If the bearing has come out of the sprocket carrier when you pulled the carrier off the wheel then I imagine that bearing has failed too. If that is the case you may find the new bearing will be slack in the sprocket carrier, proving is not too loose you can use a bearing loc fluid to stop it spinning.

Check out the old bearing by giving it a spin, if it sounds rough while spinning, even without loads of play in it you best replace it.

Chris.

[MacV2]

Now as I happen to have a spare wheel in the MacCave c/w sprocket carrier I've had a gander at it & also checked the fiche drawings.

As far as I can see the SC barring sits on the outside, so I really cant see how it is stuck to your wheel as you say.

The wheel has a bearing on each side, the SC fits in the wheel, covering that sides bearing & you can clearly see the SC bearing on the out side.

We need pics Sir to fathom this mystery....

[Diabolus]

The bearing was as described when i had the rear wheel off last week so cant take a pic now but will do before i put the replacment ones in.

looking at the ron ayres micro fiche I may be missing a part to the rear wheel http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26 ... REAR_WHEEL ref 6b !!! I only had 2 spacers when i removed the wheel the top hat type one and the thick collar type one that goes between the caliper mount and rear wheel.

The s/c outer race of bearing was tight over the the hub of the wheel could this explain why my recent cush drive replacment rubbers seem worn after only 10 months of use?

[Diabolus]

are these ok http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-VTR1000 ... 27c98ce9db ?

[MacV2]

are these ok http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-VTR1000 ... 27c98ce9db ?

Look ok to me, I had something from All Balls a while ago, either head races or fork seals, nice sticker in the box.....

[sirch345]

Here's a clearer picture of the exploded view, I take you're referring to number 8 which I admit does look like a B on your link.


I can't remember exactly about the different spacers of the top of my head, but seeing as Mac has a spare in his MacCave could have a look for you The micro-fische is certainly showing three spacers.

Only a thought, but if there is a spacer missing I would have thought tightening up the axle nut to the correct tension the wheel would be stiff to turn. Or on the otherhand, if it does still turn there might be play in it as your mechanic noticed.

Chris.

[MacV2]

Just had a look, spacer is a tight fit from the inside so will not fall out like the wheel spacers do.....

Had to persuaded it out with a large 'Mer, thumb survived with out being thwacked....



When its in place looks like this from the inside.....



From the sprocket side it looks like this, notice the slight 'step', the wall of the spacer is very thin.

[MacV2]

Just like to point out that the white 'Goo' has nowt to do with me....

The SC & the wheel to which it belonged came (fnrr fnrr) from one LargeIberianMarty, I shall say no more & leave it to your puerile imaginations......

[VTRDark]

Now there's a horrible thought

(:-})

[Diabolus]

I should get chance to remove the real wheel tomoz and i'll take a few pics. i may not need new bearings its only done 22k miles