Exhaust studs...

[Martyjuk]

What a nightmare !

Exhaust downpipes had to be removed so I could weld a split at the rear of the crossover pipes.
Simple 15 minute job thinks I....remove lower fairing and silencers, then 2 studs for each manifold to head joint.
Rear pipe comes off easily, then start on front pipe. Nuts seem very tight on studs, so use gas torch and wd40 first.
Both shear !

After removing pipes I set about repairing the damage only to find the remains of the studs had been brazed into the head !!
4 hours later have managed to drill out the old studs, unfortunately the threads are too badly damaged to re-use.

New studs and Helicoil kit on order from FleaBay !

Wish I'd never started and tried to weld the split in situ.....

[lloydie]

i had a split in mine when i first got it and the studs snapped as yours did .

if you use copper slip on them when you fit them the next time you need to remove the exhaust it will come of easy .

i remove mine twice a year re-grease and re-fit just to keep on top of it

[tony.mon]

Just tap oversize and wind in a bolt that's too long, then cut the head off the bolt, leaving a stud in place.
If necessary drill out the ex clamp holes.

And +1: copaslip on the nuts when you reassemble.

[Martyjuk]

Like Tonys idea of using a larger bolt....have some M10 stainless allen bolts in toolbox, will save expense of helicoil kit!

Will try this tomorrow, and see how my attempt at welding the downpipe works....mix of stainless tube and mild steel !!

[tony.mon]

The other option is to just use bolts to hold the ex headers in place; make sure the bolt almost bottoms out in the hole and there's plenty of thread in the head to hold it in place.

[gafr]

next time..... before you snap that stud... try using a nut splitter first.
easy to use, easy to buy and best of all... cheap!
used them on my bike no prob, 10 minute job, coz the nuts are made of soft metal they split really easy!!!

[Rob]

Nightmare, but once it's all sorted then it's job done and no problems in future

Been putting off removing mine for the same reason. I will one day - I'm expecting hell but must do it before I 'need' to do it.

[Martyjuk]

With hindsight, a nut splitter would have been the best solution.
The problem was whenever I have previously used a gas torch and wd40 I have succeeded.
These studs were so soft they sheared with the slightest torque! ( made of the same cheese as alternator bungs?)

Never mind, a couple of days off the road whilst I sort this!

[Martyjuk]

All now sorted !

Thought hard about the cheap option using M10 studding or bolts but decided against that due to the different thread sizes on original studs/need to enlarge holes in clamp.

Went for new studs, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140473489777? ... 1439.l2649 and a helicoil kit, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380458886314? ... 1439.l2649, total cost of some £15. Well impressed at the quality of the kit !

45minutes grinding, drilling and tapping resulted in a good as new repair!
Bolted back the cause of all this grief, my newly-welded downpipes, Quill cans put on at same time (sound great !), fairing and belly pan back on.

Just back from a 2 hour test ride...tank of fuel used but grinning from ear to ear !!