Engine split

[Trainraider]

I have started to split the engine to pieces. And it seems to be more difficult than I remembered.

I can get most of the bolts open, but It seems that there are some bolts behind the clutch and that needs to be completely removed.

So series of questions:
1. Can I remove the clutch bottom (where the discs are held) only with special tool?
2. What is this tool called and the size of it as well, so that I know what to buy?
3. Do I need to remove the flywheel? So is there something behind the flywheel what keeps the engine together?
4. What size is the flywheel extractor tool?

Any other good advices?

Tomorrow seems to be shopping day...

[benny hedges]

yes you will need to remove the flywheel.
you need a m22x1.5mm bolt (or extractor)

[Trainraider]

Thanks Benny - that worked like a charm!

Flywheel is now off.

Now back to clutch. It seems to be "star" shaped bolt (I don't know the exact name for this type of bolt head). What is the type and what is the size I need to buy that I can open the clutch disc wheel?

[AMCQ46]

Normal socket will work on the star bolt, but you need a clutch basket holding tool. I bought this type and it works great

http://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/m13b9 ... tool/RS_GB

[VTRDark]

I have an oil filter tool which is like a large pair of adjustable grips with more rounded ends. I also have a very large monster pair of adjustable grips, but a cloth need to be put around the basket first to protect it if using them.

(:-})

[Trainraider]

I think the oil filter removal tool (with belt) will be good to hold the clutch basket in place.

What is the size of the socket I need?

It is so big that it is not usually available on the kits so I need to buy it separately and i prefer to get it right at the first time (not like with the spark plug tool, I think I have at least 5 different ones which don't fit...).

[AMCQ46]

I don't think a belt oil filter tool will hold the clutch. That nut is set at about 120NM and then staked in place, you need a proper clutch holding tool like the one I linked to. And as you have the engine out already you have to work out how to apply 15Nm without knocking the engine over! My tip for that is to set the clutch holding tool and the socket breaker bar so they are at about 30degrees to each other and then use a ratchet strap ( like used to strap your bike down in a trailer) to pull them towards each other. Works a treat for untightening and re tightening

[VTRDark]

Not a belt type. Like this.



(:-})

[tony.mon]

Not a belt type. Like this.



(:-})

Nope. Not man enough for that job.
You can (according to Haynes manual) jam a bit of jeans material between the primary gears, but personally I think that will apply too much sideways pressure to the gear bearings, so I won't do it.

You can make a holding strap for the alternator from an old can strap, and jam it against the footrest assy to stop it turning- I posted a pictures-and -all post somewhere.
But the clutch really needs a good strong clutch tool, otherwise it simply won't shift.

[VTRDark]

Hello Tony how yo doing mate. Hows the new job going. I hope all is well.

Nope. Not man enough for that job.

Really I know the VTR's clutch basket is a bit different but I have used that on my Fazer a couple of times. IIRC I think I may have had the handle sort of jammed on the inside of the engine casing while it was locked around the basket so as It was undone the forces pushed against it so it wouldn't slip.

Looks like I may have to invest in a new tool when it comes to me stripping my VTR clutch down then.

(:-})

[Trainraider]

I seem to have turned a maintenance to a mayhem. Before I destroy the clutch basket completely, some very simple questions.

1. Does the bolt open clockvise or counterclockvise?
2. What is the size of the bolt? (30mm or 29mm)?

[tony.mon]

30mm, and it undoes in the normal direction- righty-tighty, lefty- loosey........but I find that if you use a decent 1/2 drive fixed bar and slide a 1 metre length of scaffold pole over the handle it will undo it.
It's tighter than you would think, especially if it's never moved since first build.
You'll need a new clutch centre nut.