How to: Fit a new clutch.
How to: Fit a new clutch.
After having to remove and replace my clutch 3 times, the last time I replaced it I thought i'd make a guide, I started at 10:51 and was finished at 11:36, so it can be done in under an hour, on the side stand, without having to drain the oil, only the coolant.
Here we go:
Step 1.
Unplug the signal generator wire, from the bottom right corner of the left hand radiator.
Bring it around to the clutch side so that it doesn't get in the way.
Step 2.
Drain the coolant from the bottom of the right radiator by removing the jubilee clip and sliding the hose off
Then slacken off the jubilee clips shown and remove all the pipes from the water pump, and tuck the hoses away to make it easier to remove and replace the clutch cover.
Like so.
Step 3.
Remove the 3 water pump cover bolts shown. leaving the fourth in place, at this point i also stood the bike up to drain the last of the water out of the water pump.
Step 4.
slacken all the bolts on the clutch cover.
Then use the prying locations on the cover to pry it off, and leave you with this.
From here you can have a good looky in the sump. and can see the oil, noting that it does not need to be drained to remove the clutch cover
Step 5.
Loosen the 5 clutch spring bolts, in a criss cross patten evenly doing each one a little at a time. you should end up with this.
once you've removed the bolts and springs the clutch top plate will just slide off, hopefully you aren't greeted with anything like I was. a clutch post with some serious welding.
Step 6.
Remove the clutch pack by using something to poke in the holes honda has left in the back of the clutch basket
I used 2 small allen keys
This should leave you with this, inside you can see the marks the clutch frictions and steels have made, aswell as the anti judder spring, leave this in place.
Step 7.
Insert the new or old clutch plates. starting with a friction, then a steel, then a friction, and so on and so forth, placing the last plate, which should be a friction plate, rotated differently to all the other plates, as shown in the picture. I don't know what purpose this serves but is stated in the hanyes book of lies.
Step 8.
Reassemble, which is the reverse of dissasembly, replace the clutch top plate, fit you're new or old springs, with the bolts and do them up in a alternating opposite pattern until all are done up. replace the clutch cover. fitting a new gasker if needed. followed by doing up all the clutch cover bolts and the 3 in the water pump.
Then reconnect all hoses, and fill the coolant back up from the right radiator neck until full, then fill the coolant reservoir up to the max line. last but most important REMEBER TO RECONNECT THE SIGNAL GENERATOR WIRE. otherwise you might be stood there turning the bike over for 10 minutes, wondering why it won't start.
Here we go:
Step 1.
Unplug the signal generator wire, from the bottom right corner of the left hand radiator.
Bring it around to the clutch side so that it doesn't get in the way.
Step 2.
Drain the coolant from the bottom of the right radiator by removing the jubilee clip and sliding the hose off
Then slacken off the jubilee clips shown and remove all the pipes from the water pump, and tuck the hoses away to make it easier to remove and replace the clutch cover.
Like so.
Step 3.
Remove the 3 water pump cover bolts shown. leaving the fourth in place, at this point i also stood the bike up to drain the last of the water out of the water pump.
Step 4.
slacken all the bolts on the clutch cover.
Then use the prying locations on the cover to pry it off, and leave you with this.
From here you can have a good looky in the sump. and can see the oil, noting that it does not need to be drained to remove the clutch cover
Step 5.
Loosen the 5 clutch spring bolts, in a criss cross patten evenly doing each one a little at a time. you should end up with this.
once you've removed the bolts and springs the clutch top plate will just slide off, hopefully you aren't greeted with anything like I was. a clutch post with some serious welding.
Step 6.
Remove the clutch pack by using something to poke in the holes honda has left in the back of the clutch basket
I used 2 small allen keys
This should leave you with this, inside you can see the marks the clutch frictions and steels have made, aswell as the anti judder spring, leave this in place.
Step 7.
Insert the new or old clutch plates. starting with a friction, then a steel, then a friction, and so on and so forth, placing the last plate, which should be a friction plate, rotated differently to all the other plates, as shown in the picture. I don't know what purpose this serves but is stated in the hanyes book of lies.
Step 8.
Reassemble, which is the reverse of dissasembly, replace the clutch top plate, fit you're new or old springs, with the bolts and do them up in a alternating opposite pattern until all are done up. replace the clutch cover. fitting a new gasker if needed. followed by doing up all the clutch cover bolts and the 3 in the water pump.
Then reconnect all hoses, and fill the coolant back up from the right radiator neck until full, then fill the coolant reservoir up to the max line. last but most important REMEBER TO RECONNECT THE SIGNAL GENERATOR WIRE. otherwise you might be stood there turning the bike over for 10 minutes, wondering why it won't start.
Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
Great post Serlant, numpties like me need this kinda thing
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- lloydie
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Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
+1geodude wrote:Great post Serlant, numpties like me need this kinda thing
Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
Nice straight forward description with good clear photo's mate, well done.
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F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
I thought if i was going to have it out a third time I would atleast make it useful
Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
3 clutches, Jesus what mileage have you got on it?Serlant wrote:I thought if i was going to have it out a third time I would atleast make it useful
Good pictures and write up
My advise would be to anyone planning on doing theirs order your gasket a while in advance, i waited two weeks or just over for mine to turn up,
And to put a light smear of grease on the join too before the gasket, helps the gasket come off cleanly next time you remove the cover
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Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
one clutch, the origional is on over 60k and would slip if I was hammering it, so I ordered a new complete kit from EBC frictions steels springs, theeie race clutch. not cheap at £160, I waited OVER 4 weeks for it to finally arrive, and upon fitting it instantly slipped in any gear at any more than 1/4 throttle, and was impossible to get over 75-80mph, needless to say, replacement 1. I tried removing the new EBC frictions and going for the old frictions with the EBC steels and springs, still slipped more than before and I could get to 3/4 throttle then it would slip, just after it comes on power normally about 6.5k 7 ish. wierd I thought, but none the less, seems there is something seriously wrong with the kit they sent me replacement 2. so I removed all of it and put all the old springs, steels and frictions back in, replacement 3, and were back to normal operation again, and I can't tell that its slipping at all anymore, and think I am just going to try and get a refund. pretty pissed off.
Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
Nice work and clear pics. Well done
(:-})
(:-})
Last edited by VTRDark on Sun Nov 18, 2012 9:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
==============================Enter the Darkside
Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
Serlant wrote:one clutch, the origional is on over 60k and would slip if I was hammering it, so I ordered a new complete kit from EBC frictions steels springs, theeie race clutch. not cheap at £160, I waited OVER 4 weeks for it to finally arrive, and upon fitting it instantly slipped in any gear at any more than 1/4 throttle, and was impossible to get over 75-80mph, needless to say, replacement 1. I tried removing the new EBC frictions and going for the old frictions with the EBC steels and springs, still slipped more than before and I could get to 3/4 throttle then it would slip, just after it comes on power normally about 6.5k 7 ish. wierd I thought, but none the less, seems there is something seriously wrong with the kit they sent me replacement 2. so I removed all of it and put all the old springs, steels and frictions back in, replacement 3, and were back to normal operation again, and I can't tell that its slipping at all anymore, and think I am just going to try and get a refund. pretty pissed off.
Not sure if this may cause any problem but i was always told to take off the steel plates in order and put them back the same way and in the same order they was removed...
I have an EBC Street Racing Clutch and Springs and it was perfect right from the moment I put it in
Was you using Semi - synthetic oil or Full Synthetic
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MOT - 10/04/2015
TAX - 30/11/14
INSURANCE - MCE - Expires 12/04/2015 (Midnight)
ACCIDENT CALL - 0871 2227910
RAC - 0800 1977830 - 03_MCECAB90013033
MOT - 10/04/2015
TAX - 30/11/14
INSURANCE - MCE - Expires 12/04/2015 (Midnight)
ACCIDENT CALL - 0871 2227910
RAC - 0800 1977830 - 03_MCECAB90013033
Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
I had brand new steels, and they were all identical so just put them all in. I have semi synthetic castrol power one. been through it all with the ebc guys via email, hes just told me to send it back.
Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
A Carbonadi clutch cover would look good, hide the scrapes & offer protection
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-VTR1000 ... 2311cfdf33
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-VTR1000 ... 2311cfdf33
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Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
That's a weird one mate. I know a lot of folk on here use that oil, with good results. If you replaced the plates and springs, surely there can be very little else to look at. It couldn't be a peice of foreign matter on the push rod or under the top hat keeping it partially engaged could it?
Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
don't think so, I think the kits faulty, as soon as i put all the old parts back in its back to how it was before, and slipping loads less than any combination of EBC parts if it slips at all.
Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
Fingers crossed the replacement parts will do the business mate.
Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
Re: How to: Fit a new clutch.
EBC steels might be a bit thinner prehaps.
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