valve clearance check guide?

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benny hedges
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Re: valve clearance check guide?

Post by benny hedges »

Diabolus wrote: not doing that till I've re-sprayed the cam covers, do I need to remove all the old paint of just the flakey loose areas??
??.
dont bother.
just buy 2 nice shiny ones off me :thumbup:
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VTRDark
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Re: valve clearance check guide?

Post by VTRDark »

All you need is a 10mm spanner for the cam cover :lol: IIRC 8mm socket and extension for the oil cooler bolts :plainsmile Put the top two bolts in the holes in the cover as you slide the cover back on, otherwise they are really fiddly to get back in as they catch on the the bar that goes across the frame. And before you tighten them all back up, make sure the gasket is seated in place properly, especially around the U shaped bit on the plug side and at the front of the cylinder. A bit of gasket seal or silicone spotted around to hold in place may be a good idea as well. I generally put the seal in place first and then slide the cover over. It tends to fall out if put in the cover first and then slid over.

As for Paint I would have thought the Tough Black would be OK as they don't get that hot unlike an exhaust. Obviously a specific paint designed to withstand high temps would be better though. It does take a long time for that tough Black to go rock solid hard, even after a few days it scratches and chips quite easily so take it easy sliding the cover back on under that bar. :thumbup:

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lumpyv
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Re: valve clearance check guide?

Post by lumpyv »

iirc the check is supposed to be done at 16k? . other than the mileage are there any signs it needs doing? my bike is coming up to 15k but runs very sweet at the moment?
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benny hedges
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Re: valve clearance check guide?

Post by benny hedges »

lumpyv wrote:iirc the check is supposed to be done at 16k? .
if it doesnt rattle from the top end, changing with engine rpm, when its warm... it dont need doing.
16k is crouton all for these engines
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sirch345
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Re: valve clearance check guide?

Post by sirch345 »

Diabolus wrote:Removing the front cam cover is a ferking nightmare, after using a combination of sockets, adapters and extension finally got the top 2 bolts undone. The exhaust cams on the front pot are -1 thou but within tollerance and cct tension spot on and both pots. Not looking forward to putting cam covers back on ! But not doing that till I've re-sprayed the cam covers, do I need to remove all the old paint of just the flakey loose areas?? I'm planing too etch primer and then simonzi tough black same as what I'm using for front forks, is this okay or is a paint that's for higher temps required ??.
You're right, it's not the easiest of jobs I know :wink:
You would have had an easier time accessing the front cylinder if you followed Cybercarl's advice and removed the carbs etc and got to it that way. You can get the carbs out of the way to remove the plastic tray under them if you are patient without the need to remove the coolant hose going to them. You will need to disconnect the TPS (throttle position sensor) plug and the throttle cables. Tip, take some photo's first of how the throttle cables are routed and the two small plastic infill pieces that fit into the tray, you may find they'll come in handy later. Fill the open ends of the inlet manifolds with clean rags to stop anything falling into them once the carbs have been removed.

I checked my valve clearances at 16,000mls and only one needed doing on the rear cylinder :D


Chris.
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