bleeding
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- Posts: 265
- Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:41 pm
- Location: south shields
Re: bleeding
That's what I've been doing but in visual of the open cap u see water high then it sinls right down then shoots up out the cap then few seconds later sinlks again and fires out cap again itys basically like its sucking it down then blowing it bak out the cap throwing the coolant out u need to constantly refiul tjhe coolant as it just pushing it out all the time
Re: bleeding
Glad your back scotty, shame the bikes still not fixed.
I have never had problems filling the coolant as its all simple gravity fed, but one dumb question to help me think this through . What is the reason you think it is overheating, is it because the gauge shows it going into the red, or is it boiling over out of the cap and throwing water everywhere?
The reason I ask is that it could just be the temperature sender that's failed if only the gauge is telling you it's a problem.
I have never had problems filling the coolant as its all simple gravity fed, but one dumb question to help me think this through . What is the reason you think it is overheating, is it because the gauge shows it going into the red, or is it boiling over out of the cap and throwing water everywhere?
The reason I ask is that it could just be the temperature sender that's failed if only the gauge is telling you it's a problem.
AMcQ
Re: bleeding
It'll do that as you rev the engine.scottyhatchi wrote:That's what I've been doing but in visual of the open cap u see water high then it sinls right down then shoots up out the cap then few seconds later sinlks again and fires out cap again itys basically like its sucking it down then blowing it bak out the cap throwing the coolant out u need to constantly refiul tjhe coolant as it just pushing it out all the time
Fill it with the engine revving at 3000, put the cap back on and it can't come out again, except into the overflow tank.
The good news is that it's not the water pump, because the fact that the level changes will only happen if the pump is working ok.
Coolant refilling is best done on a cold/cool engine.
When filling, squeeze the topmost hose (left hand side, pokes out through the frame) until bubbles stop and the level of coolant in the filler neck is stable, then do as above.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: bleeding
I had a dream last night about cooing systems. I was was filling my bike with coolant and I had little screw air bleed valves on my hoses like they do on some newer systems.
I would not have thought the cooling system would get to the point of boiling and spitting as it's not under pressure with the cap off. It should just flow around the system and only spew out if filled to the brim, but then only sink back down to the top hose level. If it's that hot and the fan has not kicked in, then it's time to switch the engine off and let it cool down before going back to it. When it cools it may sink back down again so top up before starting up again.
(:-})
Surly you would have to give it a serious rev for that and not a gently twist.It'll do that as you rev the engine.
I would not have thought the cooling system would get to the point of boiling and spitting as it's not under pressure with the cap off. It should just flow around the system and only spew out if filled to the brim, but then only sink back down to the top hose level. If it's that hot and the fan has not kicked in, then it's time to switch the engine off and let it cool down before going back to it. When it cools it may sink back down again so top up before starting up again.
(:-})
==============================Enter the Darkside
Re: bleeding
Nope, give it a go, 1500 to 2000 steady throttle will cause the level to sink.cybercarl wrote:I had a dream last night about cooing systems.
Surly you would have to give it a serious rev for that and not a gently twist.It'll do that as you rev the engine.
(:-})
No idea why, or where it goes, maybe carb heating, as that's the highest point?
It'll drain back to the filler neck level with the cap off, if it can.
Oh, btw, Scotty, fill it on the sidestand, not a paddock stand, it's easier.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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- Posts: 56
- Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2014 4:21 am
Re: bleeding
Does anyone know the Honda part number for the 'sealing washers' referenced in the Radiator fluid change procedure? I can't find them anywhere!
Cheers
Cheers
Re: bleeding
https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda- ... 1997/11510macca__macca wrote: ↑Tue Jun 18, 2019 5:25 am Does anyone know the Honda part number for the 'sealing washers' referenced in the Radiator fluid change procedure? I can't find them anywhere!
Cheers
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
Re: bleeding
Scottyhatchi was an idiot, who couldn't keep to one subject.
I think the sealing washers mentioned were on the oil drain bolt, nothing to do with coolant.
Simply undo a lower hose to drain the coolant, have a bowl ready and leaving the filler cap on while loosening the lower hose is advised, then, when you have some coolant flowing, undo the cap and the rest rushes out.
I think the sealing washers mentioned were on the oil drain bolt, nothing to do with coolant.
Simply undo a lower hose to drain the coolant, have a bowl ready and leaving the filler cap on while loosening the lower hose is advised, then, when you have some coolant flowing, undo the cap and the rest rushes out.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: bleeding
The first question I always ask when a VTR has cooling issues is "When was the radiator cap last replaced or does it still have the OEM cap?"
Either way you might want to try a new one because if the system can't pressurize it will overheat.
Either way you might want to try a new one because if the system can't pressurize it will overheat.
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.
Re: bleeding
I think he was referring to the block drain bolt. I personally never use it but know its there and has a copper or Al washer on it
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.
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- Posts: 56
- Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2014 4:21 am
Re: bleeding
Yep I think it's the block drain bolt. It's mentioned in the Haynes service manual as something you need to remove, and replace the 'sealing washer' when doing so. Sounds like you guys don't think you need to remove or replace this though?
- Pete.L
- Forum Health And Safety Officer
- Posts: 7259
- Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:09 pm
- Location: Bristol
Re: bleeding
So True
I've heard of this problem several times over the years and it often comes down to a defective cap.Well remembered, my ageing brain had forgot until now
My new ride is a bit of a Howler and I love to make her Squeal
Re: bleeding
There are two different specs depending on year.
From memory. 1.1 bar and 1.3 bar but don't quote me on that.
From memory. 1.1 bar and 1.3 bar but don't quote me on that.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
- ItsaKeeper
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2021 4:16 pm
Re: bleeding
I know it's an old post but I am about to replace the coolant drain bolt sealing washer as advised in the VTR service manual at page 6-5 as part of a coolant change and the Honda part number for the washer is 90430-PD6-003