
Hi all
-
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 12:35 pm
- Location: East Midlands
Re: Hi all
Yeah, watch what you write otherwise some clever Richard will correct you 

KTM Duke 690ABS in White
- Saintsman27
- Posts: 727
- Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:28 pm
- Location: St Helens , Merseyside
Re: Hi all
Hello .Wwwww .. brr ...welcome from a freezin Murkeyside.. I am also a suppose a
newbie but already I have made quite a few genial aquaintances and received top
draw help and advice from the forum members...effin cold weather.. I have an optimate on my storm
..its the the dogs ..b - - - - - ks really.. bike starts immediately on the button , I changed my spark
plugs to denso iridiums also .. a check reveal that original worn rear spark plug was very loose ..
but it still fired up !!!
anyway wait for an increase in temperature and you ll be
and out buddy riding take care.
Alb
newbie but already I have made quite a few genial aquaintances and received top
draw help and advice from the forum members...effin cold weather.. I have an optimate on my storm
..its the the dogs ..b - - - - - ks really.. bike starts immediately on the button , I changed my spark
plugs to denso iridiums also .. a check reveal that original worn rear spark plug was very loose ..
but it still fired up !!!


Alb

Re: Hi all
Yeah, watch what you write otherwise some clever Richard will correct you


(:-})
==============================Enter the Darkside
- BigVeeGrin
- Posts: 2521
- Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2010 1:41 pm
- Location: Glasgow
Re: Hi all
because there's less red on it - simplesalternative_vtr wrote:Hello and welcome, the lighter shade of Red ones are a bit faster than the rest though
Welcome Darren - just down the road from you so maybe meet up sometime somewhere - Jack's Hill or the Super Sausage? I often scoot over to Norfolk to see a mate who has a few bikes as well.
don't think it had gone unnoticed Carlcybercarl wrote:You know what, since I have joined this forum my smelling has got worse.
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- agentpineapple
- Posts: 15124
- Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:16 pm
Re: Hi all
if its the later model it should have the finned reg/rec.....Arioch_Grey wrote:its an updated 01 i think .Has the 19 l tank, new clock layout and hiss system think they revised suspension too but dont think they changed anything else but could be wrong . Havent done cct's yet but on the to do list will check the RR in the morning think its the finned one already.. hopefully.. not had any battery problems other than it doesn't like the cold mornings too much.

HEY YOU GUYS!!!!!!
Re: Hi all
That'll be useful with the amount of rain we've had lately, unless it's snow.bigspanishmarty wrote: if its the later model it should have the finned reg/rec.....
I've taken off my crash bungs and replaced them with inflatable armbands.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Hi all
Welcome aboard Darren
One thing you need to get straight is that you have the best colour
Anyone who says different is just jealous
Chris.

One thing you need to get straight is that you have the best colour



Chris.
- Arioch_Grey
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:43 am
Re: Hi all
Ohh tits.. I am now a broken man.. fired her up this morning..just putting my lid on and theres a bang and then sound of something flying down through the engine. ..have the nasty feeling that a cct has just let go
... was on tick over just warmed up.

Re: Hi all
do not restart the engine, get the cam covers off and see is the timing has move. you might be lucky and not bent any valves as you were on idle.
hope it is OK
hope it is OK
AMcQ
Re: Hi all
welcome to the loony bin mate...i'm in chatteris so not that far away really....whether the cct has gone or not get in touch with bazza on here and order some manuals off him...mine went when i was doing 50mph and i got away with only bending 2 valves so if it has let go hopefully you'll not have much damage with it only ticking over...think it cost me £100 to repair
- Arioch_Grey
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:43 am
Re: Hi all
Ok will not try restarting and pull her apart on friday I did buy a few bits to convert the ccts to manual as an interim while I saved for the manuals ...basically a couple of stainless m6 nuts and bolts and a tube of loctite is it worth doing that still or just rip them out and wait for the proper ones ?
Re: Hi all
what i did was turn it over by hand...17mm socket in the large hole in the gen cover...if it locks you've bent something,if it's free you may of got away without damage but not necessarilly...turn it slowly...either way you'll have to take the cam covers off to check and to fit either manual or auto cct's...turning it first will give you some idea before pulling it to bits..if your confident and capable of doing your own cct conversion then good but bazza'z are cheap,exchange and if he has some made up he'll post them quick for you...
Re: Hi all
I'd suggest the following:
Remove tank and airbox, then turn the engine to RT on the crankshaft (rear top dead centre)
Now remove the rear cam cover, you'll be able to see whether the cam lobes are pointing up and towards each other, if so you're on the correct rear tdc, otherwise rotate the engine anticlockwise one complete turn until they do.
Now check the cam chain tension- if it's tight, then the rear CCT is OK.
If slack, then check the valve clearances, if the inlet is too big, then you have bent inlet valves, if all four are too big, then you have four bent valves.
By too big, I mean 2-5mm too big....not just at the range limit. If you compare them visually, if bent you will be able to see that the buckets on the affected pair sit lower than their neighbours. They should all sit at the same level to the eye, comparing the top of the valve bucket to the casting surrounding it.
If the rear is OK, rotate the engine one and a quarter turns, anticlockwise from the LH side of the bike, until you can line up the FT mark.
Now you'll need to undo the mounting bolts for the oil cooler (all of this can be done with the fairing on, but it might be easier to take it offs you'll have better access and be able to see what you're doing).
Now the oil cooler is loose, you can place a rag onto the back of the mudguard, and lower the cooler onto the back of the mudguard. You might need to unbolt the two small metal straps that bolt onto the front of the front cylinder and support the radiators.
Now you can unbolt and remove the front cam cover, and repeat the chain tension and valve clearance checks as before.
If the clearances are all within range but one cylinder has a slack chain, then you've got away with it.
But my money is on two bent inlet valves on the front cylinder.
It's an easy fix, just a cylinder head gasket and as many valves as you need.
Lap them in, set the valve clearances (you'll need a few shims) and rebuild it.
Apart from waiting for the shims to be delivered, it's a day's work.
Remove tank and airbox, then turn the engine to RT on the crankshaft (rear top dead centre)
Now remove the rear cam cover, you'll be able to see whether the cam lobes are pointing up and towards each other, if so you're on the correct rear tdc, otherwise rotate the engine anticlockwise one complete turn until they do.
Now check the cam chain tension- if it's tight, then the rear CCT is OK.
If slack, then check the valve clearances, if the inlet is too big, then you have bent inlet valves, if all four are too big, then you have four bent valves.
By too big, I mean 2-5mm too big....not just at the range limit. If you compare them visually, if bent you will be able to see that the buckets on the affected pair sit lower than their neighbours. They should all sit at the same level to the eye, comparing the top of the valve bucket to the casting surrounding it.
If the rear is OK, rotate the engine one and a quarter turns, anticlockwise from the LH side of the bike, until you can line up the FT mark.
Now you'll need to undo the mounting bolts for the oil cooler (all of this can be done with the fairing on, but it might be easier to take it offs you'll have better access and be able to see what you're doing).
Now the oil cooler is loose, you can place a rag onto the back of the mudguard, and lower the cooler onto the back of the mudguard. You might need to unbolt the two small metal straps that bolt onto the front of the front cylinder and support the radiators.
Now you can unbolt and remove the front cam cover, and repeat the chain tension and valve clearance checks as before.
If the clearances are all within range but one cylinder has a slack chain, then you've got away with it.
But my money is on two bent inlet valves on the front cylinder.
It's an easy fix, just a cylinder head gasket and as many valves as you need.
Lap them in, set the valve clearances (you'll need a few shims) and rebuild it.
Apart from waiting for the shims to be delivered, it's a day's work.
Last edited by tony.mon on Thu Mar 28, 2013 12:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Hi all
thanks tony for the more indepth explanation 

- Arioch_Grey
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:43 am
Re: Hi all
Thanks thats a nice simple explanation. .only other question at the moment is the bit I heard clattering down through the engine .. what would that have been ?