Hi there
after a bit of advice firstly my f2 doesn't appear to have a fuel tap , it looks like a vacuum switch instead is this normal ? because disconnecting the tank as its full could be a bit of a problem..
secondly I appear to have a cct failure I have checked the rear and all seems fine cams lined up , chain is tensioned and clearances are all well in spec.. but front cams are out on ft the ex sits about 2 teeth low and inlet about 3 teeth high but the timing chain is under tension, so my question is could the tensioner re-engage after a failure ? because I thought the whole point is it fails mainly due to the springs giving out inside the unit and tension is lost ? any help much appreciated because I have been in the garage all day and cant think straight anymore...
help on cct, timing and fuel tap
Re: help on cct, timing and fuel tap
If you have a later storm with the 19L tank and honda wings, upgraded dash etc then you are correct there is no fuel tap and it just has an elbow at the tank that leads down to a diaphragm mounted on the back of the frame. You can either clamp the fuel lines to stop the fuel running out or fit some quick release adapters or you could get a varadero tap which fits.
As for the CCT two teeth you can get away with without any damage but any more then there is likely to be a bent valve or two. It could have just slipped a couple of teeth. You may have got away with it. Are the valve clearance all good on the front. If so your probably lucky and can just reposition the cams and replace the tensioners for either manuals or some new Honda ones and do a stop mod on them. Any chance you can post a picture of the marks on the cam sprockets so we can see how far off it is. They may not be dead flush with the cylinder head if you have excessive wear in the chain. And is it the outer marks that your looking at.

The RI is my rear inlet on the front you will have FI and FE
To move the cams set the cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke so the cam lobes will be pointing upwards and outwards for the front, then remove the CCT. The chain should be slack enough now to move back over the teeth on the sprockets. Remove the chain guide and you should be able to just lift the chain enough and move the cams back around into position. When slipping the chain back on make sure that it is pulled taught on the opposite side to the CCT so the CCT takes up the slack when tightened back up. Double check the crank did not move when lining up the cams and putting the chain back in place.
(:-})
As for the CCT two teeth you can get away with without any damage but any more then there is likely to be a bent valve or two. It could have just slipped a couple of teeth. You may have got away with it. Are the valve clearance all good on the front. If so your probably lucky and can just reposition the cams and replace the tensioners for either manuals or some new Honda ones and do a stop mod on them. Any chance you can post a picture of the marks on the cam sprockets so we can see how far off it is. They may not be dead flush with the cylinder head if you have excessive wear in the chain. And is it the outer marks that your looking at.

The RI is my rear inlet on the front you will have FI and FE
To move the cams set the cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke so the cam lobes will be pointing upwards and outwards for the front, then remove the CCT. The chain should be slack enough now to move back over the teeth on the sprockets. Remove the chain guide and you should be able to just lift the chain enough and move the cams back around into position. When slipping the chain back on make sure that it is pulled taught on the opposite side to the CCT so the CCT takes up the slack when tightened back up. Double check the crank did not move when lining up the cams and putting the chain back in place.
(:-})
==============================Enter the Darkside
Re: help on cct, timing and fuel tap
cybercarl wrote:If you have a later storm with the 19L tank and honda wings, upgraded dash etc then you are correct there is no fuel tap and it just has an elbow at the tank that leads down to a diaphragm mounted on the back of the frame. You can either clamp the fuel lines to stop the fuel running out or fit some quick release adapters or you could get a varadero tap which fits.
You don't need to do that, although you can if you want to

It's not easy to do on your own so best to have a helping hand when you remove and replace the tank.
With someone holding the tank up (front and rear mounts removed) unbolt the plate that holds the diaphram, lift the diaphram and take the two rubber hoses that go to the carbs off, also take the small vacuum pipe off, you then have the tank with the diaphram still attatched via the rubber hose from tank and no fuel will come out. also disconnect the breather hoses and fuel gauge wires. I have done this on my own but it is awkward, and involves twisting it around and resting on seat rails at one point, have an extra pair of hands

http://www.bidefordmotorcycles.co.uk
2014 CRMC Post classic Superbike champion.
2014 CRMC Post classic senior production champion. On a Suzuki Katana 1100
My bikes, Firestorm, Suzuki GSX-s1000 Katana, VFR800Fi. Projects, 1986 popup Katana, 3 XJ600’s
2014 CRMC Post classic Superbike champion.
2014 CRMC Post classic senior production champion. On a Suzuki Katana 1100
My bikes, Firestorm, Suzuki GSX-s1000 Katana, VFR800Fi. Projects, 1986 popup Katana, 3 XJ600’s
Re: help on cct, timing and fuel tap
It's possible, if you've read the cam sprocket markings correctly, that sometime in the past there's been a CCT failure and the repairer has just stuck in replacement one without checking that the cams haven't slipped.
Have taken the fairing off?
It's possible to do the job with it on, but it's difficult to see the marks properly on the front set.
I think on balance you need to check that the front pair, when set at the correct FT mark (cam lobes up and pointing away from each other), are both lined up with the head surface, then follow Sirch's instructions to get to the correct point to retime the rear ones.
If one front cam is ok and the other isn't you'll have to pull a cam out and reset one to get them both in sync.
Starting with the front one is easier than starting with the rear one, as the rear ones are easier to get at and to see. So assuming your front pair are ok and correctly timed front inlet to front exhaust, work on the rear set rather than the front set.
Have taken the fairing off?
It's possible to do the job with it on, but it's difficult to see the marks properly on the front set.
I think on balance you need to check that the front pair, when set at the correct FT mark (cam lobes up and pointing away from each other), are both lined up with the head surface, then follow Sirch's instructions to get to the correct point to retime the rear ones.
If one front cam is ok and the other isn't you'll have to pull a cam out and reset one to get them both in sync.
Starting with the front one is easier than starting with the rear one, as the rear ones are easier to get at and to see. So assuming your front pair are ok and correctly timed front inlet to front exhaust, work on the rear set rather than the front set.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
- benny hedges
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Re: help on cct, timing and fuel tap
from the rear cyl top dead position, did you rotate the engine 1 1/4 turns (450*) to get the front lined up & FT in the timing window? or did you just turn it 90* til the first FT mark showed?Arioch_Grey wrote: have checked the rear and all seems fine cams lined up , chain is tensioned and clearances are all well in spec.. but front cams are out on ft the ex sits about 2 teeth low and inlet about 3 teeth high but the timing chain is under tension...
if so, thats your problem - this appears to be what catches most ppl out - including honda dealers lol

follow the fitting guide in the workshop section and put your mind at ease.
if the front one is out, get it timed up in the view window, remove the cct then jog the chain over the cam gear til it's lined up proper
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
- Arioch_Grey
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Re: help on cct, timing and fuel tap
I will try and get some photos up off the timing marks .. the rear was checked and all lined up ok then checked the shims and all is good .. crank then moved on to front cylinder probably turned it round 3 or 4 times as I kept missing the FT mark through the window ( which is too small and I wish they put the letters before the timing mark). there is a definite click as its rotated off of the front cylinder but cant see a cause yet but will update as soon as I can , am just going out to the garage now but internet is a bit dodgy down there so hopefully will be able to do it ..going to remove the radiators and probably forks to gain better access and view..
- Arioch_Grey
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Re: help on cct, timing and fuel tap
Ok from rear tdc to front tdc after 450º exhaust cam was 2 teeth low and inlet cam also 2 teeth low have removed broken front cct lifted cams out and re aligned timing so far looking good ...just going to check shims then stopper mod to new cct and replace. . Then crank it round and see if it's ok ...thanks for help so far. .will keep you posted
Re: help on cct, timing and fuel tap
Sounds like your making headway.
Don't forget the new Honda CCT will have to be put back on the bike first, and with the cylinder set to TDC on the compression stroke. Then turn the locking key 1/2 turn clockwise and lock it off. Put plenty of tape over the end of the key so it's not accidentally knocked out while removing the CCT. You can then remove the roll pin to insert the required length bar.
(:-})

Don't forget the new Honda CCT will have to be put back on the bike first, and with the cylinder set to TDC on the compression stroke. Then turn the locking key 1/2 turn clockwise and lock it off. Put plenty of tape over the end of the key so it's not accidentally knocked out while removing the CCT. You can then remove the roll pin to insert the required length bar.
(:-})
==============================Enter the Darkside
- agentpineapple
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Re: help on cct, timing and fuel tap
buy yourself a honda varadero fuel spigot, secondhand they cost between £10 and £20, they normally sell in pairs tho, this fits your tank perfectly, and the real bonus is that it has a built in on/off valve.
why they didn't put one on the later model storm is beyond me....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-XL1000- ... 41671aa67e
why they didn't put one on the later model storm is beyond me....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-XL1000- ... 41671aa67e
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