Valve clearance?

[Storm Trooper]

Is there a step by step guide anywhere for checking and adjusting valve clearances along the lines of the cct guide. Had a look in the workshop section but couldn't see anything. Cheers.

[lloydie]

the manual

[VTRDark]

Deja Vu

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 68#p262762

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[Storm Trooper]

Apologies, bloody phone posted the topic twice.

[lumpyv]

how do you know if they need doing? is it just the mileage?

[VTRDark]

At specific service intervals they should be checked. Unless you suspect they need doing if you get a lot of tapity tap tap. You would know if they needed doing as you would blatantly hear it and you would notice a difference in the performance.

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[Pete.L]

Are you sure??
I always thought it would go quieter if the shims need doing
Surely, over time the valve wears itself into the seat further so the stem has now moved closer to the cam and the gap has reduced along with the noise. If the shims aren't changed in time eventually the valve wont be able to close properly and as well as loosing power the combustion will start to eat away at the valve seat and burn the valve out.

Pete.l

[Storm Trooper]

I think I am okay for checking the clearances, as they have not been done in the years I have owned the bike. The 1 owner before me had a full service history for the bike with everything done at the appropriate times, but I refuse to let anybody work on my bike and do all the work myself. Pretty mechanically inclined, and checking the clearances is not an issue, My query was if there are shims that need replacing, as long as the timing is set, is it just a case of removing the cams and ENSURe the cam chaind doesn't fall down into the engine, replace twith appropriate shims and then put all back together with the timing marks as they were. Does it matter if the chain may move any teeth off the crank (i dont think so as it's just there to keep the cams at the top timed).

What should be the clearances and tolerances be for rear inlet & exhaust, front inlet & exhaust.

Cheers

[bazza696]

biggest issue I had doing mine was trying to remove the front rocker cover, its like trying to get a round peg through a square hole.

I kept thinking that it was a stupid place to a cross member to fit the cooler to, it was in the wrong place, also is was a challenge to check the timing lines, carefully place inspection mirror helped.

[VTRDark]

Are you sure??
I always thought it would go quieter if the shims need doing

Mmm you could be right But I'm thinking if the gap is bigger then initially the valves are going to hit/hammer the seat harder as they open and close rather than the controlled slow down (easing) from the cam profile as they come down onto the seat. If clearances get left for too long then they will start wearing away into the seat from the excess heat/gasses not clearing away from the seat and add wear and tear on to the valves and the seats which by then It would probably quieten down as they sink deeper into the head. By this stage performance is really going to drop off.

Does it matter if the chain may move any teeth off the crank (i dont think so as it's just there to keep the cams at the top timed).

As long as the crank has not moved and the timing mark at the crank is lined up at the same time that the cams sprocket marks are lined up your all good. Make sure the slack in the chain is on the tensioner side so pull it taught on the opposite side to the tensioner. Once it's all back together turn the engine by hand a couple of revolutions and double check the clearances again and make sure everything still lines up correctly. An old metal coat hanger is good for hooking the chain up and out of the way to stop it dropping down. The clearances for both the inlet and exhaust valves should be in the workshop manual. http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=9413

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