help
Re: help
Right..after walking away from the job for 10mins I went back and dry adjusted the tensioner and found that when it is finger tight there is roughly 4mm measuring from the bottom of the middle link up to the bottom of a steel straight edge that layed across the sprockets but then it's backed off the measurement doesn't change....is this acceptable before I put sealant on it and adjust and lock it off...
- carmanbikes
- Posts: 894
- Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2012 11:09 am
- Location: Wigan
Re: help
Hi Andi
Is this on the front cylinder
Is this on the front cylinder
- carmanbikes
- Posts: 894
- Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2012 11:09 am
- Location: Wigan
Re: help
I had same problem on the front but I put it down to me having the guide out and being a bit stiff when I replaced it
Re: help
You should have more than 4mm there. Double check your timing is all correct before going any further. Crank is lined up with the two scribed lines. one on the flywheel with the one on the thread it should be on RT. Then make sure the cam lobes are pointing up and torwards each other, then have a look at the cam sprockets and check to see that the horizontal scribed lines are on the outside edge of the cam sprockets and parallel with the top of the cylinder head. The marks should be RI and RE. Get some pics up if you can so we can confirm. Did you loosen of the thread on the manual tensioner before inserting it. You have my number so give me a call if you need to.
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Last edited by VTRDark on Thu May 02, 2013 2:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: help
One more thing as I want to make sure you are clear about it. When measuring the slack it's the up and down movement from the outside edge on the cam chain between the two cam sprockets. If you rest a ruler on the threaded bit that protrudes where you removed the 10mm bolt for the chain guide, it helps keep the rule steady while you measure. You will be surprised how little 7mm feels.
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Re: help
that sound OK as the real slack is double this [up and down from the cente line]. you should target 8 to 10mm total slack [up&down]
a good trick is to wind the manual all the way in till solid and then measure how how many turns out till you get +-4mm slack on the chain. then you can apply that same adujustment on the front one without removing the cam cover
a good trick is to wind the manual all the way in till solid and then measure how how many turns out till you get +-4mm slack on the chain. then you can apply that same adujustment on the front one without removing the cam cover
AMcQ
Re: help
I think he's going to remove the front cam cover Al otherwise it's gets a bit tricky and too much room for error. Plus it means one can verify that they are actually on the compression stroke.
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Re: help
Carl, the trick I outlined eliminates the whole "finger tight" confusion and is very repeatable for the CCT setting. and as long as you turn 450 degrees you will be on TDC.
but then I am lazy
but then I am lazy

AMcQ
Re: help
I know what you saying mate but it's easy for us to say. But when you have someone that is not as competent or nervous about the whole thing it's ever so easy to loose count of the turns on the crank, especially if you miss the mark the first time around and have to go around again a few times. Don't forget the FT mark passes the window twice. So if going from the rear turning anti clockwise it passes once and then when it comes around for the second time it's on the compression stroke.
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