fork oil

[macdee]

hi guys going to change the fork seals and need to know
Q how much oil goes it the forks ( need to no how much to buy )
Q is it 7.5
Q springs out suspension compressed
Q 140 air gap
any other help would be appreciated
its my first time so please be gentle

[AMCQ46]

hi guys going to change the fork seals and need to know
Q how much oil goes it the forks ( need to no how much to buy )
Q is it 7.5
Q springs out suspension compressed
Q 140 air gap
any other help would be appreciated
its my first time so please be gentle

1l will do the job, but I cant remember ho much I had left over
7.5 is teh normal, i just moved up to 10
yes springs out full compression
yes 140mm

[macdee]

hi guys going to change the fork seals and need to know
Q how much oil goes it the forks ( need to no how much to buy )
Q is it 7.5
Q springs out suspension compressed
Q 140 air gap
any other help would be appreciated
its my first time so please be gentle

1l will do the job, but I cant remember ho much I had left over
7.5 is teh normal, i just moved up to 10
yes springs out full compression
yes 140mm

mc can i ask why you moved up to 10 w
i am 14 stone should i use 10w

[AMCQ46]

I am lighter than you but I have got uprated fork springs and with 7.5wt I had the adjuster almost fully in to get the control I was looking for on and off the brakes. So I am just running an experiment with 10wt to see if it gets me back in the middle of the adjuster for rebound and adds a bit extra to the non adjustable compression, and I think it works for me so it will be staying. But most people swear by 7.5wt including Roger D who did my forks for me originaly.

and I needed some 10wt for my trials bike so it was on the shelf waving at me:D

[macdee]

mc probably just go for the 7.5 for now
new seals on the way and .9kg springs already instaled
i have seen rogers upgrade for the forks on here some where i think i will give that a go
thanks mc

[VTRDark]

Who's mc Here the link to Rogers upgrade http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/vtr_sus.htm

Loosen of the big allen key bolt that holds the cartridge in place (you need a long reach deep allen socket for this) at the base of the fork a little before removing them from the bike. Don't loosen it all the way or oil will piss out. If you don't do this first then you will end up clamping the fork legs in a vice to be able to totally remove it later.

You will also want to undo all the pre-load and loosen the top caps first as well before removing the forks off the bike. Try loosening them with the forks removed and the stanchion spinning around and around in your hand.

Oh and the best tip I can give you is not to push down to fast on the stanchion when it is full of oil.

Don't forget to take the retaining clip out first before removing the oil seals by sliding the stanchion up and down with some force to push the old seals out. The forks act like a kind of slide hammer.

(:-})

[macdee]

Nice one Carl
Was getting ready to just rip those bad boys out

[VTRDark]

Also for the 1mm relief hole. With the cartridge out and the rebound rod removed and the end extended out. If you screw the allen bolt back in the bottom end slightly, tap it gently in with a hammer and it will push the inner cartridge back up inside the tube, you will then see a snap ring around the end that can be either removed to pull the innards out or you may be able to get a finger in to de-bur the inside after drilling.

(:-})