carb jetting

[superhawk]

I'm currently trying to dial in my bike. I recently installed a K&N Filter and a Stage 1 Dyno Jet Kit. Since I'm running Yoshimura RS3 Slip Ons I stalled #185 Main Jet on the front carb and #190 Main Jet on the rear carb. I set the needles on the 5th notch. With this combination I have a flat spot at around 5000 rpms and the bottom end tourque and quick trottle response is lacking big time. As it is now I couldn't get the front tyre in the air if I tried.

Has anyone found a better combination of jet sizes and needle setting. I was told that removing the airbox snorkle would help as well as pulling all the smog garbage off. I know that sometimes you can't have it all... but it is worth a try.

Any suggestions

[WayneM]

Whoooooosh was the sound it made as it went over my head!!

[redden]

My friend and I just got finished putting the Dynojet kit in his bike (98 VTR) he has hindle cans, k&N air filter and he is at sea level. We used the clip on the 4th position, 185 mains front and 190 mains rear, drilled slides, and 2 3/4 turns out on the air/fuel screw. Everything works well but when he closes the throttle it back fires, anyone have this happen, and if so what’s the fix.

Would everyone post what they are running on their bikes (cans, filters, etc) and what they have for their jetting setup?
Thanks a bunch

[delmeekc]

I've found that unless you have done any engine work then run the standard mains and give the air screws atleast another 1/2 turn out each, this is of course assuming that you have no air leaks etc. should really get it on the dyno too to check it all propa.

Del.

[Masu]

I'm running #188 front and #190 rear with the stock #45 slow jets. Ihave a K&N filter, lightly oiled, and the needles are on the 4th clip with a washer under the clip. Slides are drilled too. The bike is a Jap spec bike that was brought up to full power. I have a Moriwaki Zero full Ti sys with Carbon cans.

The throttle response is nice and crisp, the plugs read a nice tan color.

I need to get down to a Dyno as well.

I want to do the open air box, but for that you really need some dyno time.

Cheers!

PS check out the thread on the Superbike bars I just did....

http://www.abercon.co.uk/vtr1000/phpBB2 ... =2691#2691

[philsmith]

I've just bought a yr.2000 (FX) which has Ixil cans, a Dynojet stage one kit & was apparantly set up on a dyno.

All I can say is it runs really well! , lifts wheel too easily.

If I can find out setup details I will.

Any other mod advice would be much appreciated.

[redden]

I was having the same problem with a flat spot with the 190 and 185. I went down to the 185 and 180. This brought back the 3500rmp wheelies. the 190 and 185 put the power band too high and you lose the fun tourque of a v twin.

[philsmith]

after 2 more days on yhe dyno, I'm now running 180 jets on both & needles on 4.5, air/fuel graph is pretty linear, still a slight dip at around 4500 rpm, but believe this to be the character of the profile of dynojet needles. The 'Factory' needles people use different needles front & rear (so i'm told).

Max power at rear wheel now 109bhp, but most importantly no occasional stalls/ backfires, & better low & mid pull.

Now also running slightly leaner overall.

So what do you reckon wayne? Any advice?