Head Stock Question

[darkember]

Thanks for all the responses. Will first check Sirch345's test to check if it is just a tension issue.

I've just realised you will need to remove the handlebars as you have done a flat bar conversion, to gain access to the steering stem nut. When undoing that nut make sure you protect the petrol tank and surrounding bodywork, as that nut is done up tight, 103Nm to be precise.

Chris.

Noprobs M8. One question I do have is how to get the front wheel lifted. My Abba stand tilts the machine firmly onto the front wheel. Also, if I have to change the bearings how high do i need to lift the front in order to drop the forks & bottom yoke out.

[AMCQ46]

A jack under the sump

[VTRDark]

But loosen the axle bolt first.

I use bricks and bit of timber. You just need someone to push down on the rear so the Abba stand see saws.

(:-})

[Redthunder]

Hi, What make where the nasty ones

Pyramid parts

[VTRDark]

I used the All Balls racing ones from ebay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-VTR-100 ... 2c6c67e0e2

Wemoto do them as well but they are a bit more expensive.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-VTR-100 ... 58a0c8dd0f

Make sure you get the seals as well as they will more than likely get damaged when removing the old ones.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

Put something heavy on the rear seat to make the front come up. I use an old toolbox full of useless English Pipe size spanners I have somehow gathered over the years.


And remember that as soon as you remove the front wheel it becomes rear heavy anyway.

[darkember]

Thanks for the info Tony. Yes the bearings are shot. Have started to strip down the front end & also have decided to have the front forks sand blasted so that i can polish them up. Should also think about new springs, seals & oil for the forks as they will be off the bike for a while. Anybody point me in the right direction for the parts needed. Thanks

[VTRDark]

I have just followed this http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/vtr_sus.htm and it has totally transformed the front end. The only difference from that link is that I used Rogers custom racetech springs which are 10mm longer (I chose the linear spring route) than the standard racetech which involved me taking 10mm off the spacers to bring the combined length back to 410mm

I bought HRC seals and separate dust seals. While I was at it I also changed both sets of bushes. The inner bushes where good and did not need changing, but as I had new one, I changed them anyway. It juts so happens they are the more expensive of the two so I could have made a saving there. Doh.

If you want a reasonably straight swap with not much work involved then the Hyperpro progressive spring kit seems a good option. Lots of people rate it. I think they even give you the option of which rate oil you want with the kit.

(:-})

[darkember]

If you want a reasonably straight swap with not much work involved then the Hyperpro progressive spring kit seems a good option. Lots of people rate it. I think they even give you the option of which rate oil you want with the kit.

http://www.motorcycle-road-and-race.co. ... tAodnF4Abg

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hyperpro-Prog ... 232c669775

They look like the same kits.

[VTRDark]

Yeh same kits. Just check on the the best weight oil to use first. I'm not sure as I have not ever fitted the Hyper pro kits. I'm sure Tony can give you some direction there as he's fitted a fair few.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

Yeh same kits. Just check on the the best weight oil to use first. I'm not sure as I have not ever fitted the Hyper pro kits. I'm sure Tony can give you some direction there as he's fitted a fair few.

(:-})

Yep, I should be on commission by now!
But they are worth the money, and no-one's ever been disappointed.

[darkember]

I just knew it. This job has been going perfectly until this evening. Luck had to run dry. Upper & lower outer races both seated like butter on bread into the head stock very little tapping needed as they were well frozen & I had also heated the head stock. Feeling I was on a roll I then packed the tapper rollers got the stem out of the freezer & walloped the lower bearing on, all looked dandy till I offered the stem into the head stock. When I took the slack out I noticed the bottom dust seal was not seating snug & there was a gap of 2mm between it & the base of the stem this i did not notice before as the grease had masked the gap. Now I cannot get this last 2mm to seat. What are my options?

1: Could somebody tell me the ID & OD of a suitable pipe to really hit this thing on. I do believe my pipe is not man enough.
2: Take it to a friendly dealer who may be willing to press it into place.

[VTRDark]

It will seat itself into place over the next couple of weeks as you ride around and go over a few bumps. You will find yourself having to re-adjust the tension a few times anyway. As for pipe diameter, well, I ended up using and adjustable wrench over the top and tapping that with a hammer alternating from side to side to get it on squarely.

(:-})

[AMCQ46]

I use the upper section of a telescopic axle stand for a car, and I find that when the parts are both at the same temperature you need a good sized hammer and a metal on metal strike...I was using a block of wood to protect the axle stand, but had to go onto the metal to knock it home.

If you take it to an old style engineering shop they will put it in a hydraulic press and snog it home nicely.