Converter unit

[borgster67]

HI,

My 03 storm died in the middle of a ride on the weekend had to get it towed, no spark.

Tested all ECU connections they appear ok, no peak voltage from converter unit to coils.

Does anyone know what type of signal comes out of the ICM for the converter unit. My best guess it's a clamp to GND signal as the peak voltage is only reading from +12V to each of the signal wires. Any other ideas on how to test the converter unit?

If it is the converter unit is it possible to change it with an earlier model? mine has the plug on the side,earlier models have the plug out of the top or bottom (depends on which way you hold it) - I'd assume it's ok just as long as I get the bit of harness and plug with it.

Or does it need to be matched with the ICM mine has HISS, but I couldn't care less if I changed it to a non HISS one.

Thanks

[Tweety]

Have you started out by checking charging as in R/R and battery? If not, start there...

[borgster67]

Have you started out by checking charging as in R/R and battery? If not, start there...

I don't think it's the Regulator or battery when it died the motor lost power and wouldn't accelerate but was still running. On the side of the road I got the crank the engine many times, I can only assume that the charging circuitry is working.

I just spent another hour after being told it might be an issue with the kill switch etc..
so I put a 55w bulb and powered it out of the GND/IGN wires on both the ICM & CDI units, there was 10.7v at the bulb which for all the wiring etc.. and and the current draw of the globe is ok. If the switches were faulty this globe wouldn't work so no issue with CDI or ICM getting power.

I also measured the resistance of the signal / gnd pins on the cdi unit and plugged it in and measured the resistance with the CDI plugged in at the ICM connector no significant difference in resistance. (Values were 3.99kohm and 2.53kohm)

Also I unplugged the regulator/ dash/ flasher unit (headlights were already unplugged) and tried again and still got the signal from the ICM to the CDI but no output and hence no spark.

Short of checking the crank sensor and output of the ICM with an oscilloscope to make sure the signals are good as I am only using a diode and capacitor to check peak voltage, I see no other option but to buy at least a CDI unit but nobody wants to sell this alone without the IGM as well. and the IGM means keys/barrels/ignition etc... because of HISS.

[VTRDark]

You seem to be jumping straight in at the deep end with the ECU/ICM. I would check the charging circuit first to at least rule it out. Failures within the charging circuit are fairly common, failures with the ECU/ICM is rare. I suggest you go through the Regulator Rectifier Charging System Diagnosis Checks in my signature.

(:-})

[borgster67]

I just read through the guide and one of things I just tried was unplugging that R/R and then cranking and checking the output from the Converter unit.
I was trying different things on the side of the road for an hour after it died. the starter when I used it was getting slower and slower but it started off quite strong.
Last year the battery did die on me and I had to buy a new one and it would still start even if the starter was barley turning the motor over.
I could go and check the R/R but it's unplugged at the moment and still have no spark! Even though there is the same 12v peak signal as measured from IGN from the ICM(ECU) -> CDI(Converter unit)

Just went outside and unplugged the HISS reader so the ECU won't send this pulse and that is the case, Engine was cranking, ICM&Converter both had power but ICM was disabled and hence no signal for the Converter. Of course the hiss light was on (plugged the dash back in btw), all went back to normal as soon as I plugged the reader back in. Unless the ICM output signal is incorrect and I don't have specs on what that should be I expect it to the be a square wave pulse clamped to GND on Spark with a wasted spark as there is no idea on which cylinder to fire.

I also forgot to check the voltage at the throttle position sensor, just checked and it's within the specs about 4.8v for me.

[borgster67]

Finally I bought a whole set of ignition, key, locks ECU & the converter box.

I tested with whole set and it works. then just swapped the converter box and it's all good.

put plug leads back in and she starts :-)

[Tweety]

Well then... How about you verify the R/R now then... I mean, it's altogether possible that it will fry another CDI is it's putting out to high voltage... And I'm fairly certain it wasn't free...

[borgster67]

You are right it wasn't free

I did quickly check the voltage on the battery while it was running it wasn't anything abnormal. but I will go through those checks.

I also plan on opening the dead cdi and attempting to fix it.

[Tweety]

Well... Unless you plan on spending a week or two removing the cast mass in there, it's pretty much a useless task... By the time you get that out, you will have a few damaged components, so it's really no use...

BTW, I used to work with reconstructing things like that, so take it from me, just don't bother...

[borgster67]

Just went through the charging system and everything is normal the voltage at the battery is only 14v even doing 9000rpm, the only time it's a little higher is at 1000rpm at around 14.5v, I didn't bother with the leakage when off as there isn't any issues with flat batteries, or when the bike isn't running the cdi & icm are disconnected anyway.

[Tweety]

Well, have you measured the entire rev range? As in going the entire way, looking at it with a decent multimeter, not the cheapest kind that won't catch the short duartion peaks at all?

[borgster67]

The meter is reasonable, and once over 3000 rpm the 14v was really steady and didn't move