I agree for a short time you should be fine.
The affect on carbs is that there is less air pressure so less air enters the engine and the air itself is less dense so has less air molecules which both cause things to run rich. So basically you will use a bit more fuel and the bike will feel a little flat and not so responsive. A bit like us as altitude, it gets to the point where we can't breath properly and need some Oxygen.
Something else that often gets missed and can happen at altitude is that the float in your carbs can swell up which can also cause a slight over-richness. The reason being that when the floats are made the majority of them are sealed at Sea level and set at a specific internal pressure. When you go up a mountain the external pressure drops and the internal pressure inside the sealed float cannot equalise. The internal pressure can make the float swell up which makes it slightly rounder and not such a flat bottom, therefore the float can sit slightly higher in the fuel bowl causing more richness. With extreme amount of pressures for any long periods of time this can also lead to the float distorting to the point of rupturing and causing a leak wich will give erratic fuel metering.
If I was you I would either set the carbs to run slightly lean at sea level so compensating for when you climb higher when things richen up. Or maybe if you have your carbs set up with a standard air filter. Take a hi flow filter with you and swap over as you require a bit more air.
Something else to take into consideration. If you are running an aftermarket de-baffled exhaust/race can and have not had the bike jetted to suit, then there is a good chance that you are already running slightly lean especially if you have put a k&N fitter in or equivalent. In which case you will find things will run a little better at altitude anyway.
If you are going to adjust the carbs, I wouldn't bother changing the mains as it's very unlikely that you will be running at high speeds above 7,500 rpm at the edge of a mountain.

Maybe just a 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the fuel mixture screw would do the job. Turn in to lean it off or turn out to richen up. But I have a feeling that if you have a Jap model VTR then the fuel screws will be sealed off for emissions purposes like the US models, and would require drilling the caps off and then a D tool to adjust them. Here in the UK we have a straight forward slot head screw so all that is required is an angle screwdriver to get adjust them.
Have good trip and take some pics to post up.
(:-})