He wants £300!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[darrenmartin]

Took my Storm to Sea Star (WHOOPS) Motorcycles for a Fuel/Power run the other Sat morning. The chap on the dyno said he basicaly knew what he was going to see even before he started. As it happens he was rite! dirty big hole in the fueling at low throttle opening. Remidy......£300 for Dyno set up time and a Jet Kit. What are your thoughts pls guys

[lloydie]

Fit a standard air filter and standard jets as hawks base setting with 48 pilot jets
Runs great with them settings even with race cans .

You should only need a jet kit if your running a greater flowing air filter .
£300 for a jet kit and set up sound good tbh if he knows what he is doing .
But if you have 45 pilots fit the 48s they make ma massive improvement on there own .

[Wicky]

Over a decade ago I paid £250 for dynojet kit, K&N (plus fitting cans) and 8 dyno runs to tune it all up. Take into account inflation and your dodgy starting point then it seems quite reasonable.

[agentpineapple]

i've had this dilema myself, luckily my local dyno charges £15 a run on saturdays(it used to be a tenner )
this means if you tinker with the carbs yourself or find the help of a local forum member, you can sort the fuelling out yourself for the cost of 3 or 4 runs.
a jet kit will set you back 50 to 100 depending on where you get it from.
personally i'd do whats already been suggested, stick a standard air filter in it, and have a single dyno run, then go from there.
i'm running race cans, but as far as fuelling go's my bike is standardish. and bar a little fine tuning its very good, mainly thanks to carl....
my biggest issue with dyno/tuning is that they charge you for a jet kit, but only use a few parts, that they probably have in stock already, to me thats a rip off. anyways rgats enough of me rambling on.

[VTRDark]

I'm with Lloydie on this one Darren. As long as you have the Standard airfilter which is better on a non modified engine anyhow, and all you have is slip on cans, then go with hawks set up. Your competent enough to make these changes yourself and IIRC you already have the front vacuum take of for carb balancing and have balanced the carbs yourself in the past. So why not go a stage further and and get to know the internals of your carbs and save a small fortune. There's also a very good chance you will already have the 48 pilots installed, but you wont know for sure until you have a look. You never know there may even be an aftermaket jet kit installed already. You just don't know until you look inside the carbs.

Hawks carb set up.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=28922

A quick overview on opening the carbs and making changes. Note the useful links at the bottom.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 14#p238578

So what's made you decide to do this. Is your bike not running very smooth or have you been sucked into the whole jet kit sales and marketing blurb thing and how much more power you will get....NOT If you did have an aftermarket jet kit and higher flowing airfilter the only gains you would get would be a few bhp top end. No biggie, and not where you want the gains. Aftermarket jet kits have got to be one of the biggest cons and money maker going for the price considering what you get, and what gets used, when in reality by adding a race can all you need is a few shims/washers under the needles to richen them up a tad. If you add a higher flowing airfilter or other things then a jet kit can be beneficial.

(:-})

[sirch345]

. Remidy......£300 for Dyno set up time and a Jet Kit. What are your thoughts pls guys

I agree with the others, if it's right now then that's not a bad price.

What is it like now to ride?


Chris.

[darrenmartin]

Guys many thanks for the interest and all the sound advice.
Ill fill you in with the mods so far to the Engine/Fueling.
1. Velocity stack changed over so that both are of the longer legnth. (OE Honda type)
2. CBR stick coils fitted.
3. "Hi Flo" air filter fitted during the dyno run.
(since reading your posts iv now re-fitted the OE Honda filter, so ill she how she runs.
4. Scorpion cans fitted (baffles removed) and i got to say iv not heard any bike that comes close to the noise out of those things
Oh and the rest of the exhaust system is Honda OE.

Ill post the dyno result as im sure you'll be able to see whats going on far better than me trying to explain
While iv got your attention iv just started useing FULLY SYNTHETIC engine oil after a recent copy of Practical Sports Bike Mechanic claimed this type suitable. Thoughts please and last but not least......well you did ask the base of the air box collects a thin film of oil in the front right area. Am i right in thinking this is due to my having the engine oil level a little towards the "upper" extreme of its capacity.
Keep up the gr8 work you guys

[Wicky]

While fully synth oil does a great job lubing all the bits it should be aware there are plenty of reports that for the VTR it possibly can cause clutch slip. While fully synth is recommended on most modern bikes, the VTR seems to be on the cusp between 'old' and 'new' and for some owners it performs better with semi-synth.

While iv got your attention iv just started useing FULLY SYNTHETIC engine oil after a recent copy of Practical Sports Bike Mechanic claimed this type suitable. Thoughts please and last but not least......well you did ask

For your list of mods some fettling with your jetting would be in order, esp with the freer flowing exhaust.

[VTRDark]

i got to say iv not heard any bike that comes close to the noise out of those things

Post the dyno chart up and we can see exactly what your fuelling is like then. Superficially the A/F part of the chart, not so much the curves. But was the run done with the current set up or did it have the free flowing filter on for the run.

The one thing I will say, if following Hawks guide he recommends blocking one of the the front lift holes with the normal stacks (so short one blocked) or block a hole in both slides if using Billet stacks and with two standard longs leave as is. Now I run the same as you with two standard long stacks and have experimented and blocked a lift hole in each slide as per if they where Billets. What I will say is that this softens the bottom end a bit so you loose a bit of bottom end pull, but when I put it on the dyno it smoothed out the curve and the bike feels very linear from the bottom to top end. I'm running a Factory pro jet kit so with the standard needles it may be a little different.

In your case with a standard air filter I think you will probably get away with just shimming the standard needles and making sure you have a 48 pilot jets installed. Scorpian cans are one of the better quality exhausts that don't require jetting to suit but would benefit from it. In other words your bike should run fine as it is with no issues, but if your where going to tune your carbs to match the cans precisely then you may gain a little something from it.

As soon as you throw an aftermarket free flowing airfilter on then this will upset things. Now I'm guessing the dyno guy threw a free flowing airfilter on,1st because it sounds good from a sales point and bragging rights "ooh I have a K&N filter" as if it's a good thing and give your more power. People seem to rate K&N filters and some on bikes it can make significant improvement but not on these bikes unless highly modified with engine mods. Then 2nd by putting the free flowing airfilter on it upsets things and gives the dyno place a reason to sell you a jet kit and some dyno time to get it tuned to suit.

Also don't forget what an airfiters job is. By putting a less restrictive filter on you are then allowing more dust and dirt to enter the engine and add more wear and tear over time, especially if it's not maintained and washed and oiled properly which a lot of owners forget about. Stick an hi flowing airfiter on a race bike it gives a bit more top end and any wear and tear don't matter as they re-build their engines after every few races. On the street it's just bragging rights to give you a few more bhp top end to brag about. Bullshit really. Especially the likes of the gixxer boys that take their bikes down the dyno fully kitted up in all their new kit just to see who's is fastest or more accurately who's got more top end BHP. they don't even realise the dyno tech is more than likely tweaking the results so they walk away with a smile on their face. Good for business that this is not what dynos should be used for. Dynos should be used for sorting out fulling and smoothing out your curves. Not bragging rights.

Sorry gone into a bit of an early morning rant there. but you get my point.

(:-})

[lloydie]

Calm down Carl it's still morning .
Oh and a hi flow- (brand name) air filter is just a copy of a standard one .

[VTRDark]

Oh and a hi flow- (brand name) air filter is just a copy of a standard one .

Good point Lloyd cause that can be a bit confusing. Yes what are called specifically Hi Flo as the ones on eBay are as you say, just a standard filter. Which is not to be confused with Higher flowing filters such as in K&N, BMC or whatever.

(:-})

[darrenmartin]

sorry for the l8 reply guys, iv had to deal with a family crisis
Thanks again for the input from every one i realy do appreciate it ill find the Dyno result out and get it posted (ill try for the weekend) I think when some of you guys see it youll know instantly what the problem is and how i correct it but we'll see. Cheers guys