Another noob.

[Watty]

Hello and welcome mate ,sorry to hear about your crap week

[Flatline]

Welcome aboard buddy

[adyf]

Hi mate I'm not far away south of York ,a few members here abouts , if you need any help give me a shout ,go to squires a lot if you ever fancy a run out ,yorshire run is may next year have a look in runs/events,by the way what colour is it (red is best).ady f.

[Kev L]

Welcome to the club fella. Is your middle name "Lucky"?

[Pete.L]

Welcome to the club fella. Is your middle name "Lucky"?

and is your first name is "Not So"?

Don't rub it in Kev. The poor lad has just done in two bikes in a week

Welcome Aboard Bud
Good luck with the repairs.

Pete.l

[Virt]

Welcome to the forum, best of luck with repairing the VTR. You're in the right place, I swear some of the people (read: wierdos) on this forum know more than Honda about these bikes, they'll set you straight

[lloydie]

Hello and welcome .
If we ever meet please don't stand to close ! I have enough bad luck

[ChrisC]

Ahh, lets hope the bruised swelling on your leg goes down quickly....it probably won't go down as quick as your bank account though .....wish you well on the rebuild and welcome to the site

[tony.mon]

Ah, not a good way to find the forum, but you're not the first and won't be the last.....
If' you've bent all four valves in the front head you will not need new guides fitting, unless something quite unusual has happened.
You will need new seals, though, and a head gasket of course.

My advice would be to buy a cheap rear head and rob the valves out of it.
You'll need a suitable valve spring compressor, but not all work well- have a look on here, Halfords do one for about £50 or you might be able to borrow one.

You'll need to lap the valves in once fitted, and then re-shim to get the clearances set- while you're doing these, might as well do the rear clearances as well, as you are near enough looking at them.
I'd advise draining the coolant out (it runs out once you take the head off anyway!) but also remove the two rads. It's only some clamps and six bolts, but then gives you so much more access.

Your other option is to part ex your head against one that I or someone else has already prepared- if the replacement head has a set of cams and caps installed you can set the valve clearances (fit the correct shims) while it's off the bike, so you should be able to bolt it straight on.
Factor in the cost of postage both ways as well. It won't be cheap, as it'll need to be a front head.

Lastly, if you have any machining skills, machine a secondhand rear head's blanked off cct adjuster position so that it can be turned into a front one- the castings are the same, with a cct position cast into the head both front and rear- only one is machined, though- machine one and blank the other and you turn front to rear, or vice versa.

If you lived any nearer I'd say I'd collect, but Yorks is a long way to charge you for mileage!

Good luck, with a weekend to spare and doing your homework before you start and it's not difficult.

[sirch345]

Welcome aboard. I'm sure the VTR will get sorted one way or another

Chris.

[DorsetBoi]

Hi, feels odd welcoming newbs when I only just joined myeslf, but I'm friendly and need to up my post count so hello

[TheLump]

Welcome to the club fella. Is your middle name "Lucky"?

Hahaha, nice one.

Thank you all for the warm welcome, most appreciated.

Ah, not a good way to find the forum, but you're not the first and won't be the last.....
If' you've bent all four valves in the front head you will not need new guides fitting, unless something quite unusual has happened.
You will need new seals, though, and a head gasket of course.

My advice would be to buy a cheap rear head and rob the valves out of it.
You'll need a suitable valve spring compressor, but not all work well- have a look on here, Halfords do one for about £50 or you might be able to borrow one.

You'll need to lap the valves in once fitted, and then re-shim to get the clearances set- while you're doing these, might as well do the rear clearances as well, as you are near enough looking at them.
I'd advise draining the coolant out (it runs out once you take the head off anyway!) but also remove the two rads. It's only some clamps and six bolts, but then gives you so much more access.

Your other option is to part ex your head against one that I or someone else has already prepared- if the replacement head has a set of cams and caps installed you can set the valve clearances (fit the correct shims) while it's off the bike, so you should be able to bolt it straight on.
Factor in the cost of postage both ways as well. It won't be cheap, as it'll need to be a front head.

Lastly, if you have any machining skills, machine a secondhand rear head's blanked off cct adjuster position so that it can be turned into a front one- the castings are the same, with a cct position cast into the head both front and rear- only one is machined, though- machine one and blank the other and you turn front to rear, or vice versa.

If you lived any nearer I'd say I'd collect, but Yorks is a long way to charge you for mileage!

Good luck, with a weekend to spare and doing your homework before you start and it's not difficult.

OK, sweet, I'm feeling better already. Thank you for that advice, you have genuinely given me hope!!!

[TheLump]

How are the valve guides attached to the top? Just pressed in?
As you can see in the picture, they are cracked.

[Pete.L]

Pressed in with the aid of some dry Ice I believe.
I've never done the process myself, so I stand to be corrected.

Pete.l

[sirch345]

I'm sure the valve guides are just pressed into the cylinder head and will come out using a drift, but best to check with Tony.mon first, also I think the new valve guides, once pressed into the c/head will need to be reamed out with a reamer so the valves are a tolerance fit.

Chris.