Fork help

[macdee]

Trying to replace the fork seals and following the info on here
The problem is the hex bolt won't come out of the bottom of the fork
It just spins round and round
What do I do men

[lloydie]

Rebuild the forks and add max pre load then try again .

[Tweety]

Adding to that, an impact driver helps break it loose...

And, a tip for next time, start by getting that bolt undone, before anything else... So much easier...

[macdee]

Adding to that, an impact driver helps break it loose...

And, a tip for next time, start by getting that bolt undone, before anything else... So much easier...

Thanks tweety
I did break the bond before the forks came out of the bike as I thought
But it looks like the alloy bit at the bottom of the cassette is spinning
I have just kill the neighbour,s cat because he was laughing at me

[VTRDark]

Agree... you need some spring pressure on it as without it the cartridge will just spin along with the bolt. Don't take the bolt right out as fork oil will piss out of the hole, so just break the seal to loosen it off.

(:-})

[macdee]

Have rebuild the fork
Maxed out the preload
And the bugger still spins

[VTRDark]

That's not good, there must be something else going on then. Maybe it's been out before and someone has messed the thread up or there is an issue with the bottom of the cartridge. I would be tempted to leave as is and get the old seals out another way rather than using the stanchion as a slide hammer. Maybe drill a hole through the oil seal and use a right angled pick/prybar to pull/pry the old seals out, otherwise you could be looking at having to drill the old bolt out and messing around that way.

(:-})

[lloydie]

Have rebuild the fork
Maxed out the preload
And the bugger still spins

Max IN preload and if you can compress the fork

[macdee]

Tried to compress the fork and loosen the hex fail
Removed the preload and rod and used a suitable bar to put force on the inner rod connected to the valve
Hit he bolt with a persuader and turned at the same time and the bolt came out without much fuss
Oh the story about the cat is not true
Thanks for the lads

[lloydie]

Glad you got it done

[macdee]

next problem men
the spring is 310 long and looks like a progressive is this standard or could it be an other make and maybe heavier than standard
is their any way of telling Honda from other manufacturers

[VTRDark]

Standard springs are progressive and are 310mm with a 100mm spacer. Unless there are any markings on the spring there is no way to know if it's an aftermarket spring. If you purchase some new springs make sure that the spring and spacer = a total of 410mm. o if the spring is longer toy will need to trim the spacer down.

(:-})

[macdee]

thanks Carl
looks like i need springs
i thought the bike was diving to much under braking just put it down to the forks needing seals
but on seeing the springs in flesh i now think their to blame
thanks

[VTRDark]

New weight related linear springs is the way to go but for a cheaper option you could try using a heavier weight oil and play around with the air gap. With a spring and spacer length of 410mm, 7.5w oil you would require an air gap of 140mm or 135 if your heavy on the brakes. Maybe try a 10w oil instead with the standard springs. I'm not sure how the static sag would work out like that, but anything is better than standard.

(:-})