Fork rebound adjuster replacement?

[VTRDark]

I had another crack at getting these adjusters to turn last night, success! I think I just needed some some "man up" pills.

Was that anti-clockwise. Don't overtighten them Clockwise, if you feel resistance STOP or you risk bending the damper rod.

I don't see why you cant trim the top of the heads down and re slot them. But it will alter how you set the rebound up (if dismantling/rebuilding) With regards to the position of the top of the head. So try to remember how much you have chopped off and use an imaginary line. Hope that makes sense. You would know what I mean if you stripped one down.

Why don't you jack the front up so the bike don't drop down, remove the fork cap, loosen the locknut and remove the assembly and rod. If you do one at a time you can get away without jacking the front up as the other fork leg will still have resistance and hold the bike up, but it does make it harder putting the cap back on.

(:-})

[Jamoi]

It was anticlock as the adjusters were wound/stuck fully in.

Is it not the case if the adjusters are both wound fully in then they are both at the same level of adjustment? So, if I take/shave a couple of mm off the top it won't affect setting the adjustment as the level of adjustment is taken by winding fully in and winding out in increments together & not by visually looking at the height of the adjuster.

Now proudly fully out..



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[VTRDark]

Is it not the case if the adjusters are both wound fully in then they are both at the same level of adjustment? So, if I take/shave a couple of mm off the top it won't affect setting the adjustment as the level of adjustment is taken by winding fully in and winding out in increments together & not by visually looking at the height of the adjuster.

I couldn't absorb that tongue twister. It didn't make sense to me.

Is it not the case if the adjusters are both wound fully in then they are both at the same level of adjustment?

Well one would like to think so, but not necessarily, it depends on the taper and accuracy of the taper on each rod. You talking fractions of an inch here! and visually depends ie the position of the screwdriver slot, on the adjustment of the locknut when setting the fork rebound adjustment on rebuild.

You could shave some off and make new slots so loose... say for example (i don't know) 3mm. So for arguments sake, say that if you set that flush with the top of the preload as Al was describing earlier, locked off the locknut and put it all back together. Because you have trimmed it down, the rod will sit higher to begin with. Does that make sense so if the rod sits higher then the taper on the bottom will be higher, therefore a bigger gap between it and the valve which will allow more fluid flow. Yeh......you with me.

You really need to loosen them fork caps, unlock the locknut and wind the preload/rebound body off along with the rod. It will all make sense to you then. You can also wind the rebound screw in all the way (clockwise) and separate it from the preload body. This will make it a lot easy to tidy up the screw head ends then.

Just don't tip the forks over while undoing the caps or you will loose your oil.

(:-})

[Jamoi]

I get it now

I might just try and clean up the surfaces of the adjuster tops to prevent any further chewing up of the slots.

If I do shave a bit off the top, I'll be sure to make a note of exactly how much.



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[tony.mon]

I have a spare adjuster with std rod, but you'd need to collect it as it's likely to get bent in the post....

[Jamoi]

Thankyou Tony, I think it's just a case of me having to clean up the slot in the adjusters now (to prevent further chewing up), I have managed to free them up so will get the full adjustment I'm after.

The forks have been treated to a full race tune, so don't want to touch them too much or lose any benefits of the previous work by Roger.

Can't wait to feel the difference these new suspenders will make to my bike!




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[MacV2]

Thankyou Tony, I think it's just a case of me having to clean up the slot in the adjusters now (to prevent further chewing up), I have managed to free them up so will get the full adjustment I'm after.

The forks have been treated to a full race tune, so don't want to touch them too much or lose any benefits of the previous work by Roger.

Can't wait to feel the difference these new suspenders will make to my bike!




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Wont they be a bit uncomfortable under your leathers ?

[AMCQ46]

just hoping his mum will be modeling the new suspenders

[Jamoi]

Mac, try it mate! It's liberating!

Al, I wouldn't wish that on my biggest enemies!

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[Jamoi]

Before/after



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[MacV2]

Before/after



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Surely you mean ''After / Before.'' unless you have chewed the screw up & your showing us all what not to do...

[Jamoi]

errr yeah after/before! wonder what the best way to polish them up would be.. or maybe I should stop thinking about polishing pointless stuff and get on with some proper bloomin' work!

About to change my exhaust studs...

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[VTRDark]

Just give them a once over with some Autosol, looks like you have done a good job there. Did you take the complete unit apart in other words separate the screw and rebound rod from the mail unit.

(:-})

[Jamoi]

Cheers Carl, I only spent a couple of mins on each one, it did them in place with a bit of blutack pressed into the cracks to stop any fillings getting in.

My exhaust studs which arrived today are the wrong size

Have offered to send them back with an old one, so they can get it right!

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