Anybody used one of these devices before on the header nuts???
If so are there any procedures I need to be aware of: ie: Should I apply heat & or Plus Gas to the nuts prior to splitting?? How tight should I go as the tests I have done on some threaded bar tend to distort the nut rather than split it. Will the nuts loosen at the point of distortion?? Just looking for some past experiences here before I wade in all guns blazing
Yep did it today .
First before you use the nut splitter you need to remove the lip but go down to the bolt on the nut nearest the cylinder head on one flat of the nut ,
Use a black cutting disc in a dermal as doing this will weaken the nut closest to the head and will help to split the nut .
Now use the splitter as close to the head as you can . Only tighten it till the nut starts to crack the move it lower nearer the end of the nut and tighten again till the crack widens .
Once you have it cracked use a old flat head screwdriver and a hammer and tap it in the crack in the undo direction gently !.
Once it starts to turn you should be able to get the spanner on it but again be gentle .
Repeat on the other one :-)
lloydie wrote:Yep did it today .
First before you use the nut splitter you need to remove the lip but go down to the bolt on the nut nearest the cylinder head on one flat of the nut ,
Use a black cutting disc in a dermal as doing this will weaken the nut closest to the head and will help to split the nut .
Now use the splitter as close to the head as you can . Only tighten it till the nut starts to crack the move it lower nearer the end of the nut and tighten again till the crack widens .
Once you have it cracked use a old flat head screwdriver and a hammer and tap it in the crack in the undo direction gently !.
Once it starts to turn you should be able to get the spanner on it but again be gentle .
Repeat on the other one :-)
Nice-one Lloydie Just to clearup which nut did you tackle first the upper or the lower one as they are both in the cylinder head?? Thanks