Steering Head Bearings - Replace?

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tony.mon
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Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:46 pm
Location: Norf Kent

Re: Steering Head Bearings - Replace?

Post by tony.mon »

Up to you, but I always figure that if I've out the effort in pulling it apart I might as well just fit new bearings anyway, as I'd hate to have to pull it all apart again in two or three months.
Same with front forks, while they're out I'll refresh to oil, maybe seals, and if they haven't been done before, the top and bottom bushes.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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Mav617
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Joined: Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:20 pm
Location: Copthorne, W Sussex

Re: Steering Head Bearings - Replace?

Post by Mav617 »

Thanks Tony, I moved the top race around, copious amounts of grease, tightened adjuster, fitted locknut, felt great - fitted top yoke and stem nut and it felt worse than before :evil: I'll have another crack tomorrow.
I'm so unlucky that if there is such a thing as re-incarnation I'll come back as me!
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AMCQ46
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Location: Worcestershire / Warwickshire border

Re: Steering Head Bearings - Replace?

Post by AMCQ46 »

If you don't get the castellated locknut tight onto the 1st locknut, then when you fit the top yoke nut it adds lots more preload to the assembly and will make them too tight.

This is much more of a problem when fitting tapers (as they dont like preload) but you can work round it by setting them by feel after the top nut is fitted and do a few iterations. You don't need to remove the yoke or the bars, you can just undo the top nut and lift them 10mm so you can back off the castle nut with a punch. I also put a felt pen mark on the castle nut cover so I can see how far I have moved it from the previous setting, then if i have gone from 2 tight to too slack I can move back to the exact halfway point.
AMcQ
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Mav617
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Joined: Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:20 pm
Location: Copthorne, W Sussex

Re: Steering Head Bearings - Replace?

Post by Mav617 »

AMCQ46 wrote:If you don't get the castellated locknut tight onto the 1st locknut, then when you fit the top yoke nut it adds lots more preload to the assembly and will make them too tight.

This is much more of a problem when fitting tapers (as they dont like preload) but you can work round it by setting them by feel after the top nut is fitted and do a few iterations. You don't need to remove the yoke or the bars, you can just undo the top nut and lift them 10mm so you can back off the castle nut with a punch. I also put a felt pen mark on the castle nut cover so I can see how far I have moved it from the previous setting, then if i have gone from 2 tight to too slack I can move back to the exact halfway point.
Thanks AMC :thumbup: Sorted.
I'm so unlucky that if there is such a thing as re-incarnation I'll come back as me!
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