Firestorm Ignition switch problem?

[sirch345]

When I turn the ignition on using the key, I get a flash of the speedo pod bulbs as they light up, they go out just as the key reaches it's fully on position. This results in flicking the key on and off a good few times until eventually the ignition stays on (speedo pod bulbs stay on). The problem must be the contacts in the ignition switch as I can't start the bike until the speedo pod bulbs stay illuminated.

I'm not able to use my bike as often as I would like, so no doubt this is contributing to the issue. It seems to be worse this time of the year, more moisture in the air I presume.

I've tried squirting a liberal amount of WD40 into the ignition barrel where the key goes, although that didn't seem to help. Most likely the ignition contacts are not being reached using this method. Before I resort to removing the ignition barrel from the top yoke and immersing it in WD40 or similar, have any of you got any better idea's

Any suggestions would be great

Chris.

[lloydie]

You could try spraying contact cleaner on the switch . You can get to the switch from under the ignition barrel .
3 small torques screws hold it in place .undo them and the switch comes away .

[VTRDark]

Contacts are a good place to start, clean and shove some Vaseline in there. And use Graphite powder for the barrel as WD will allow dirt to stick to it and add more wear and tear. You never know... by disconnecting and reconnecting the switch may just sort it.

(:-})

[sirch345]

You could try spraying contact cleaner on the switch . You can get to the switch from under the ignition barrel .
3 small torques screws hold it in place .undo them and the switch comes away .

Lloydie, that is really good to know I don't know why, (may be because of the shear bolts holding the barrel in place) but I was expecting the barrel and switch to be in one piece.

Carl, I never knew there was such a thing as Graphite powder that is meant for lock cylinders. In all the years of being in the building trade I'm amazed I've not come across it, as I have stripped and repaired more locks than I care to remember.

Thanks chaps for your replies, they are really helpful

Chris..

[lloydie]

When you look at the bottom of the ignition switch/barrel there will be a plastic cover to protect the wires remove that (clips off) then you will see the 3 torques screws after you've undo them the switch mechanism Will just pull away and it will be easy to spray it now :-)

[sirch345]

When you look at the bottom of the ignition switch/barrel there will be a plastic cover to protect the wires remove that (clips off) then you will see the 3 torques screws after you've undo them the switch mechanism Will just pull away and it will be easy to spray it now :-)

Top man Lloydie, thanks for the fine details

I'm guessing I will need to remove the top yoke to make life easier

Chris.

[lloydie]

No you don't need to but removing the fairing will help I'll take some pics of mine in a bit as it's off the bike and I have a loose switch :-)

[lloydie]

[VTRDark]

Carl, I never knew there was such a thing as Graphite powder that is meant for lock cylinders.

Well there you go, lesson learnt for today.

I used to use WD in the barrel on my old Fazer which was in a terrible state. I had to give the key a wiggly jiggly to turn it in the barrel. Things actually started to improve once I started using graphite powder.

http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Sticky-Lock

http://www.maplin.co.uk/graphite-lock-lubricant-444745

(:-})

[MacV2]

IIRC they are security torx screws, the ones with the little pin in the middle.

If you haven't got one I can lend you the correct size or buy a kit like this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100PC-SOCKET- ... 2c774e6ec4

[sirch345]

I'm well impressed with you chaps

Lloydie thanks for taking the trouble to get a photo sorted, that shows exactly where the fixings are, and the plastic cover, excellent

Carl, yes that is something new learned today thanks for the links that I missed the first time That's an even better price than what I had found this morning

Mac, thanks for the link for the torx bits and the generous offer of lending me one. As it happens I do have some of the smaller sizes, so fingers crossed one of those will fit.

Cheers,

Chris.

[VTRDark]

That must be Lloyd's 0.1% used up now.

(:-})

[lumpyv]

I was always told if you had a sticky yale lock the best way to loosen it up was to keep going over the key with a pencil. it works

that's graphite so there there must be something in it ? ?

[sirch345]

That must be Lloyd's 0.1% used up now.

(:-})

I was always told if you had a sticky yale lock the best way to loosen it up was to keep going over the key with a pencil. it works

that's graphite so there there must be something in it ? ?

I have have never heard that either, but a handy tip all the same I'm sure.
The only thing I can remember using graphite (from a pencil) for was on a motorcycle with a magneto. If the magneto was getting weak (meaning the spark at the spark plug was getting less) if you took the spark plugs out and coasted the tip and electrode of the plug with a pencil lead you would get a better spark. It did work too, as tried it out once when I had trouble starting one of my old Tritons, that trick got me home. You just had to remember to carry a pencil with you

Chris.

[Pete.L]

That sounds familiar
I'll bet you looked after that pencil. I've heard it can be difficult to get your engine running with out any lead in your pencil